Upon decelerating to a stop, sometimes this auto trans Rodeo engine jumps up to about 3k and then settles down, it is significant enough that I have to hold it in place with the brakes or it will jump forward, any ideas? I am due for the 120k service where the throttle body cleaning is recommended, no warning lights on the dash.

TB cleaning you can do yourself, elsewise they're liable to rip you off, especially if you have it done at the dealer.

Check your PCV valve, make sure it has good seal.

Otherwise, are there any more symptoms you can describe, i.e. stalling, hesitant, loss of power, etc.

Possibly a vacume leak?? Probably a shot in the dark.

I don't think it would be related to your transmission, probably just coincidental, but when was your last fluid change?

what about that rubber boot on the throttle linkage?

Thanks for the suggestions, gives me someplace to start, will replace the pvc and the grommet where it mounts and check the rubber boot you mentioned, will also likely do the TB clean meself and will search for the thread here with the procedure, no other symptoms, truck otherwise is fine, my startup "ticky ticky" has gotten more significant in the last 30k but usually quits within a mile of home, i use "gunk motor flush" at every change and have been running Amsoil full synth and Amsoil filters since 44k on a 7500 mile change interval, truck uses about 8/10 of a quart every 1000 miles and has done so since the day I got it, tranny fluid/filter swap was done at 90k and is due now, as is the waterpump/timing belt/tensioner job, will try the NGK Iridium IX plugs this time as well

I have a 99 3.2 auto with 120k doing the same thing but only on hot days, have cleaned the throttle and done a tune up, any other suggestions?

Yup. Throttle position sensor. Just did mine for the second time. Don't strip those bolts that hold it in place on the back of the TB. They are held on with red loctite. There is a little adjustment that can be made with the TPS. Too far one way and the engine revs high. Too far the other way and it may ant to stall. Cheap part. The Advance variety didn't hold up very long. Trying a NAPA one now.

EDIT: I'm first generation...

ok so i got a new TPS, and went to put it on, Haynes book says to put it on without tightening screws, and rotate to .25v however with screws in i couldn't get it to go below .68v on the new TPS, and even the old wouldn't go below .45, I wound up drilling larger holes in the old one just so i could get it seated back in with a drivable idle. Is there something I am missing here?

I wish I could help. I just adjusted it until I got a familiar idle. Did you get it done? Did you have the right tps for the 3.2L?

I have the right TPS. I have not gotten it done yet, I am going to take a dremel to the new one once I get some free time and make a curved slot so i can adjust, as the ones i have have only two holes with no adjustment whatsoever. Will post more afterwards.

I had to push the top of mine all the way to the pass side and tighten things up, otherwise I had too high an idle.

I seem to still have a problem with this. The daughter had it race on her today. After reseating the connector, it calmed down and she could drive it home. I'm wondering if this is one part that the Isuzu part would be the best option. I had no issue for 7 months after replacing it the last time.

I tried dremeling the new one and put it in place at .25 v, started the car and it was idling at 2500rpm, after a few minutes it got itself down to about 800 like normal, but if i blipped the throttle it would jump back up to 2000 and stick for awhile.

So i put the original back on, and while it initially started at 2500 rpm as soon as it climbed back down it was responding correctly, also checked the voltage throughout this range and it seemed to be responding correctly, .37v at idle throttle. So I'm back to using the factory, drove 160 miles and still noticed some revving issues, especially in deceleration. So I'm beginning to think that its not the TPS

Be sure to post if you find the answer. It ran well today, but I expect a return...

I'm trying a new brake booster vac hose and cleaning the IAC next. Don't really believe either is going to help, but I don't know where to go next. Any suggestions??

I cleaned the IAC valve. Didn't look carboned up at all, like the last time I cleaned it. I started it up before plugging it back in and it idled high at 2250 rpm. I plugged it in and it settled down again. Drove it 5 miles without a problem. Hmmm. Maybe it is getting flakey when hot? $55 for a new one....

Eh. That didn't get it. As a last resort for the night I decided to check my grounds. The one on the driver's side valve cover was super loose. Snugged it up and took off thinking that HAD to be it, but at the last stop sign before the driveway, the idle hung at 1100 rpm. Put it in P or N and it jumps up to 2250. The TPS is 0.0% to 0.3% when the idle is 770 rpms, but 1.1% when it idles high. The pedal and throttle plate are in the same position, but the TPS reads differently and the idle varies. Nutty.

I took it to planetisuzoo.com. One possibility I'm thinking about is the power steering high pressure switch which bumps the idle in a high pressure situation. When it is faulty, it keeps the idle speed high at all times.

A new new TPS seems to have solved my problem. TPS values are now good at idle all the time, and there is no high idle. Yet....