Hey guys,

I'm a long time reader, and I think this is my first post.

Yesterday I started to hear a squealing come from my '01 4x4 Rodeo. I thought it was just time for new brakes. I haven't changed them yet- got it used at ~45,000 2 years ago and now have 70+.

My father in law listened as I drove by and called on the cell to suggest it might also be a rear bearing going. We had a 175 mile drive home so I kept that in mind.


Half way through the drive home I SWORE I smelled gear oil. Then my wife asked what that smell was. We stopped at a gas station, I looked with a flash light and didn't see anything out of the oridinary, and felt the hubs and my hands didn't blister ;-) The smell also went away. For a second I smelled it closest to the driver's rear wheel. But it didn't last long once stopped.

We took it easy the rest of the way home (65MPH or lower) and the smell didn't come again, and of course now I can't hear the squeal much.

I may do the brakes since I probably should anyway... but the smell of gear oil scares me!

Help? :rolleyes:

Might be time for the brakes. It's simple enough to jack it up, remove the wheel and take a look. Speaking of gear oil, do you have any moisture on the differential cover on the rear axle?

Might be time for the brakes. It's simple enough to jack it up, remove the wheel and take a look. Speaking of gear oil, do you have any moisture on the differential cover on the rear axle?

Thanks, I was planning on stopping by NAPA tonight on the way home from work to grab brakes for front and back.

I'll take a look at the differential tonight with my drop light- my flashlight at the gas station at 11pm didn't afford me the best look!

I have been meaning to change out my gear oil on my differentials as per the 60K service, but haven't gotten around to it. My old Toyota had a drain, the Rodeo doesn't so I don't have something to pump it out with yet.

Get a hand pump tonight. You'll need it for the auto tranny, too!!

Get a hand pump tonight. You'll need it for the auto tranny, too!!
Yeah I meant to look for that when I got the brakes but I forgot! I got there as they were about to close. Darn.

So I changed my front and back pads. The back ones were VERY worn, that was the squeal (the little warning scraper thing did it's job).

I'm wondering if the smell was the grease on the caliper bolts?

Either way I'm going to watch it like a hawk, and try to get to my differential this week!

I'll have to do some research as to what I can do with the tranny. I thought you needed a special tool. I was going to pay someone to do the 60k service on the tranny.

Did your caliper slide pins come out easy? Was the wear even on the pads, inside to outside? My right rear had a sticky caliper and it caused the inside pad to wear much quicker than the outer pad or either pad on the driver's side. A dragging caliper can cause that uneven wear and a pad to heat up while driving.

Did your caliper slide pins come out easy? Was the wear even on the pads, inside to outside? My right rear had a sticky caliper and it caused the inside pad to wear much quicker than the outer pad or either pad on the driver's side. A dragging caliper can cause that uneven wear and a pad to heat up while driving.

I believe the wear was pretty even. Nothing too noticable. The driver's side rear pins were the hardest to remove- the one I thought I smelled. They also, strangely enough, were hard to re-install- even after re-greasing. I thought I had them cross-threaded or something, but after taking them out again twice to check... I just plowed ahead... :uhoh:

That's what causes a sticky caliper. I sanded down my pins and cleaned out the bore the best I could until they slid very easily. Lube them well and check on them!

Thanks for the advice!

One more question.

Trying to bleed the brakes, and since I have ABS, the Haynes Manual said I need to bleed the hydraulic modulator... which I THINK is in the passenger side rear of the engine compartment.

If that is in fact the unit... I can't find the front and rearward bleeders on it.


Thanks.

Got me. I didn't bleed the brakes (as recommended!) when I changed pads. Either time.

From the factory service manual. Make sure you read all the steps before doing it or you could damage the ABS unit or vacuum booster. You dont neccessarily need to do all the steps but pay attention to the precautions to avoid damaging anything. The ABS unit itsself doesnt have bleed screws, if done right any air in it will come out with normal brake bleeding proceedure.

This would be a good time to do a complete flush of the system anyways.

Bleeding Brake Hydraulic System
A bleeding operation is necessary to remove air from the
hydraulic brake system whenever air is introduced into
the hydraulic system. It may be necessary to bleed the
hydraulic system at all four brakes if air has been
introduced through a low fluid level or by disconnecting
brake pipes at the master cylinder. If a brake pipe is
disconnected at one wheel, only that wheel
cylinder/caliper needs to be bled. If the pipes are disconnected at any fitting located between the master
cylinder and brakes, then the brake system served by the
disconnected pipe must be bled.
1. For 4–Wheel Antilock Brake System (ABS) equipped
vehicle, be sure to remove the ABS main fuse 60A
located at the relay and fuse box before bleeding air. If
you attempt to bleed air without removing the main
fuse, air cannot be let out thoroughly, and this may
cause damage to the hydraulic unit. After bleeding air,
be sure to replace the ABS main fuse back to its
original position.
2. Set the parking brake completely, then start the
engine.
NOTE: The vacuum booster will be damaged if the
bleeding operation is performed with the engine off.
3. Remove the master cylinder reservoir cap.
4. Fill the master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid.
Keep the reservoir at least half full during the air
bleeding operation
5. Always use new brake fluid for replenishment.
6. When replenishing the brake fluid reservoir, carefully
pour in the brake fluid to prevent air bubbles from
entering the brake system.
When the master cylinder is replaced or overhauled,
first bleed the air from the master cylinder, then from
each wheel cylinder and caliper following the
procedures described below.
Bleeding the Master Cylinder
7. Disconnect the rear wheel brake pipe (1) from the
master cylinder.
Check the fluid level and replenish as necessary. If
replenished, leave the system for at least one minute.
8. Depress the brake pedal slowly once and hold it
depressed.
9. Completely seal the delivery port of the master
cylinder with your finger, where the pipe was
disconnected then release the brake pedal slowly.
10. Release your finger from the delivery port when the
brake pedal returns completely.
11. Repeat steps 8 through 10 until the brake fluid comes
out of the delivery port during step 8.
NOTE: Do not allow the fluid level in the reservoir to go
below the half–way mark.
12. Reconnect the brake pipe (1) to the master cylinder
and tighten the pipe.
13. Depress the brake pedal slowly once and hold it
depressed.
14. Loosen the rear wheel brake pipe (1) at the master
cylinder.
15. Retighten the brake pipe, then release the brake
pedal slowly.
16. Repeat steps 13 through 15 until no air comes out of
the port when the brake pipe is loosened
NOTE: Be very careful not to allow the brake fluid to come
in contact with painted surfaces.
17. Bleed the air from the front wheel brake pipe
connection (2) by repeating steps 7 through 16.
Bleeding the Caliper
18. Bleed the air from each wheel in the order listed
below:

Right rear caliper or wheel cylinder

Left rear caliper or wheel cylinder

Right front caliper

Left front caliper
Conduct air bleeding from the wheels in the above
order. If no brake fluid comes out, it suggests that air
is mixed in the master cylinder. In this case, bleed air
from the master cylinder. In this case, bleed air from
the master cylinder in accordance with steps 7
through 17, and then bleed air from the caliper or
wheel cylinder.
19. Place the proper size box end wrench over the
bleeder screw.
20. Cover the bleeder screw with a transparent tube, and
submerge the free end of the transparent tube in a
transparent container containing brake fluid.
21. Pump the brake pedal slowly three (3) times
(once/sec), then hold it depressed.
22. Loosen the bleeder screw until fluid flows through the
tube.
23. Retighten the bleeder screw.
24. Release the brake pedal slowly.
25. Repeat steps 21 through 24 until the air is completely
removed.
It may be necessary to repeat the bleeding procedure
10 or more times for front wheels and 15 or more
times for rear wheels.
26. Go to the next wheel in the sequence after each wheel
is bled.
Be sure to monitor reservoir fluid level.
27. Depress the brake pedal to check if you feel
“sponginess” after the air has been removed from all
wheel cylinders and calipers.
If the pedal feels “spongy”, the entire bleeding
procedure must be repeated.
28. After the bleeding operation is completed on the each
individual wheel, check the level of the brake fluid in
the reservoir and replenish up to the “MAX” level as
necessary.
29. Attach the reservoir cap.
If the diaphragm inside the cap is deformed, reform
it and install.
30. Stop the engine.

Is it possible to have a warped caliper? I just did the rear brakes on my '99 Rodeo. New pads and a new rotor for the left rear. I cleaned everything up good, and the right rear is cool to the touch, but the left rear is warm, almost hot to the touch. Would it just be easier to replace the caliper rather than fooling around with it any more? Ideas? Suggestions? Thank you
Jim

Regarding your gear oil smell, I had the same thing when I first got my used Rodeo. I found that the vent on the rear end was clogged. I replaced the vent cap and cleaned out the line, never smelled it again. Pretty sure the 01 has these too. Just some thing to check, if you get the smell again.

I just did a complete brake job on my 01 4wd passport today and it has 73000 on it. I also had all four rotors turned to get a new finish for the new pads. All i have now is the leak at the tranny to fix.