I have a `97 Cavalier RS that was parked for several days while I was on vacation driving a rental car. All was fine before the vacation but when I returned, the AC was not working. The AC compressor clutch doesn't seem to be engaging when I turn on the AC (MAX), or when I click the AC button while on vent, or when I turn the dial on defrost. The blower works great but only blows hot air, (and YES I have the dial turned to cold and not hot).

I checked the inside dash panel fuse and it was fine (10amp). I also checked under the hood near the battery where the additional fuses are located, and that 10amp fuse was fine. The AC relay located in that same enclosure is ok as well. The guy at the parts store was nice enough to let me plug the new one in before I spent the $20 on a new one.

Just as a side note, I had a problem about a year ago with the fan resistor but I don't think it's related in any way to this issue. The Post can be found on this forum at http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=440540 (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=440540)

Anyone have any ideas? Thanks in advance.

Consider making sure the system hasnt lost its charge. One quick test is disconnect the LOW PRESSURE cycling switch and jump across it. This should be located in your Accumulator/Dryer and be a 2 wire connector. If the clutch engages, recharge.

I have a `97 Cavalier RS that was parked for several days while I was on vacation driving a rental car. All was fine before the vacation but when I returned, the AC was not working. The AC compressor clutch doesn't seem to be engaging when I turn on the AC (MAX), or when I click the AC button while on vent, or when I turn the dial on defrost. The blower works great but only blows hot air, (and YES I have the dial turned to cold and not hot).

I checked the inside dash panel fuse and it was fine (10amp). I also checked under the hood near the battery where the additional fuses are located, and that 10amp fuse was fine. The AC relay located in that same enclosure is ok as well. The guy at the parts store was nice enough to let me plug the new one in before I spent the $20 on a new one.

Just as a side note, I had a problem about a year ago with the fan resistor but I don't think it's related in any way to this issue. The Post can be found on this forum at http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=440540 (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=440540)

Anyone have any ideas? Thanks in advance.

As said check for low freon and say no to the death kits.
And post back your low and high side pressure readings as outlined below.

Wal Mart DEATH KITS

You cannot properly and safely recharge an air condition system with them.

The one side stop and go gauge does not tell you what your system is doing or is over charged or undercharged.
A overcharged or malfunction air condition system can reach over 500 lbs of pressure.
Enough to blow up that can or system and freeze you at first and the burn you or blind you and if any propane /butane in there blow and light you up.

The stop leak crap and who knows what kind of oil in the kits there will stop your system for sure.
Just like pouring super glue in it.
And some kits even contain freon with a butane mixer.
Good for a big blast.

If you are going to do it do it right and safe.
Here is what you need to start with.
http://www.ackits.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AMA&Product_Code=66773

In the older days you could just throw in a can and go.
But over the years just adding freon is getting harder to do.
Newer systems have to have the correct amount of freon down to the ounces.
Most will need pumped down and vacuumed down and the right and amount of oil and a set amount freon charge installed to get the air to cool right and the system to last.
If an air condition is low there is usually a leak that needs fixed and also a lose of lubricating oil from system.
Also air and moisture enters a low system
If you are going to try to do it get the proper type air condition gauge set with the low and high side gauges.
Hook up the gauges and get a reading with compressor running at idle and at 2000 rpm on the high and low side.
Post back pressure reading and we can help you.
MT

Thanks Salestax and MT-2500. I talked to a guy at the parts store who also mentioned the low pressure switch but I opted to let a pro handle this situation.

I took the car to my local, (and only), A/C and Radiator repair speciality shop and the diagnosis was a leaking evaporator. (I can already hear the groans from the people reading this who know what that means). The estimate of $641.00 is a LOT higher than I imagined and a lot more than I can afford but I'm having it done anyway. I've been under that dash before and I know what all is involved in just removing the outermost piece. It's not worth the aggrivation of doing it myself. It's probably money well spent in the long run.

I read a post on a different website suggesting replacement of the heater core while the dash is taken apart, as a preventive measure. I don't know how probable a heater core problem might be, but I think I'll ask the shop to at least check it out. Not having A/C in the summer is bad but no heat in the winter is even worse! Hopefully they will be honest and not just see an opportunity for extra moolah!