Advice needed on making posable struts, hinges, etc.

I'm wondering if I haven't bitten off more than I can chew on this one... :shakehead

Anyhow, I'm building a Revell Eclipse (1:25) that will have vertical doors (it's in the Street WIP forum). I'm going to a fair amount of detail, and I'd like to use functional rear hatch struts, door hinges, and these:
http://plaza.umin.ac.jp/~satoshi/pic2106.jpg

I'm pretty sure I can photoetch some decent brackets and hinge arms, but where I'm lost on is how to make posable struts, the pivot points for the strut on the arms and brackets, and the hinge connecting the arm and bracket. I looked for sewing needles with round eyes at Walmart, but they didn't have them and the lady said she had never seen any like that. The needle could have been the shaft of the stock, then I'd find something to make the shock body out of.

As to the hinge, I know I'll need the 2 PE pieces, a washer of some sort between the 2, and someway to connect them tightly... screw and nut, maybe? Screw the pieces into the body?

But anyway, the shocks with round eyes on each end is what I'm having the most trouble with as far as design. Any ideas, pointers, suggestions, help, etc on the whole set up would be greatly appreciated :grinyes:

Thanks

Brass tube and rod. The rod slide in and out of the tube, plus you can solder tube to the ends for the eyes.

The hole of the eyes would only need to be about .020 to .030 diameter. Is brass rod made with that small of of an inner diameter... But this is probably what I'll end up doing, I think. Thanks, mike, now I'll be spending the rest of the day looking up tubing sizes and sketching diagrams :biggrin:

Thanks for the help!

Perogie boy you could always use the tubing and crimp down the ends then file them to shape and drill the proper size hole?

How true, how true! I was looking at that myself, but my thought was to PE a 90 degree bracket, drill or etch the hole on one side, and solder the other to the rod... I didn't really want to get into to soldering, but it doesn't look like there's gonna be a way around it... Looks like it's time to buy and iron and fine tip!

But in the matter of the hatch struts, the bodies aren't even an inch in diameter, that's only 1mm in scale! Maybe hypodermic needles? I know that's what some people ues for those working dipsticks, maybe if I find two sizes that are tight enough to keep the hatch open, yet loose enough to close with little resistance... Where can one get hypodermic needles without a standard reason? (ie diabetes, pet medication, etc) I mean, 16 year old kid asking for hypodermic needles, what's the first thing that'll pop into that clerk's head? :uhoh: :disappoin

One other thing: do most hobby shops normally stock K&S metal sheets? I know my LHS (local, ha! 70-100 miles away :angryfire ) carries the tubing and rods and such, but I can't for the life of me remember if they have sheets... I'm going to PE the brackets out of .020 stainless...

I've got some pix posted on another site. PM me and I'll send you a link.
I use straight pins, tiny brass tubing and brass wire. You'll need a pin vise, tiny drill bits and some pliers with smooth jaws. Oh yea, a motor tool with a cutoff wheel is helpful too.

I'm going to PE the brackets out of .020 stainless...

Etching .020 Stainless is going to be extremely difficult. Etching .020 brass takes a professional multiple baths and double sided treating to etch through it. And its not a clean etch by any means. Etching .020 stainless is going to be even more difficult.

Are you etching these yourself or having them professionally done?

You're right about that. Just the other night I read a very in depth explanation of the process of a home etcher... way more than I bargained for! The process takes a lot of equipment I can't even dream about having at this point, chemicals my mom wouldn't let within 100 feet of the house, and plenty of experience. And if I went to a professional to have these done, sounds like it'd put me out $700-1K. Sooo... Ferrari TR, check your PM in a little while, looks like I have much to learn. :slap: Looks like I DID bite of more than I could chew :puke:

Hey Mike, or anybody else, what would you suggest I make the arms and brackets out of? It needs to be easy enough to work with so I can get the shape, yet stong enough to hold that shape while the door gets opened and closed...

Thanks for the help, guys! :sunglasse

And if I went to a professional to have these done, sounds like it'd put me out $700-1K. :sunglasse

Professional Etching costs about $120 for a 4x6 sheet or something around that size. I have a friend who does it. If I see him around I'll talk to him about it for you.

No no no no! Thank you very much for the offer, Mike, but I can't see sinking more than $25 into these hinges unless I were getting to keep some of the equipment, chemicals, or material. My pockets be shallow, mate! I have to spread my rather thin earnings this summer over hobby stuff, shop tools, car insurance and restoration funds, and college money. I've already sunk more than I care to think about into this build, I doubt I could get away with spending $100 more... Thanks for the offer though...

Any ideas about material for the hinges? :confused:

Any ideas about material for the hinges? :confused:

Do you want the hingest to look realistic, or function well? If you want them to function well you could do the standard brass tube and music wire.

Well, erm, I was kinda going for both... :lol:

My aim was to get the doors to line up when closed, lift smoothly, and stay in place when opened fully. Hmmm... Let me tinker with some idea and sketch for a while, maybe I'll come up with something...

About those needles, though... :icon16: