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95 Honda Civic EX 1.6L automatic/check engine light/no air


mgan9311
07-17-2006, 09:31 AM
Hey All,
Here's my problem. In the the mornings when I start my car, it turns
over but doesn't want to crank. So after several tries, it finally
starts with trouble, then the check engine light comes on with low and
irratic idle rpms. I have to let it warm up for about 10 to 15 minutes
every morning. Since I can't drive it when the check engine light is
on, I just shut off the car and attempt to restart it. Sometimes it
starts immedately with no check engine light, and sometimes it does the
same thing I described above. It is taking me a minmum of 30 minutes
to get my car fully running. Everything runs as normal when the light
is off, even the rpm idle speed is perfect. I took it to the auto
parts store and they said it could be the TPS sensor or it could be the
Idle Air Intake Valve (sensor?). My mechanic friend says not so. He
said my model car can display the codes I need to solve the problem,
and he says I don't need a diagnostic tool to do so. He mentioned
something about using a jumper cable. I have no clue as to what he is
talking about. Does anyone know how to do this or what my problem
might be?? Car seems to be having this problem less throughout the day
but still every morning since the oil change people changed the oil to
5w30 instead of 10w30. Also, added Gumout fuel injector cleaner to my
tank this morning hoping that its just clogged injectors. We will see
if I can start my car tomorrow morning! Please, any help is much
appreciated. I am trying to save money since I just put $925 into the
car in the past 6 months!



Repairs/Maintenance to date:
Oil and filter change
air filter change
fuel filter change
distributor cap, wires, and roter changed
spark plugs changed
water pump and timing belt changed
coolant flush
rear main seal replaced



Other problem:

A/C doesn't work anymore. When turned on you have hear it pull from
the engine, but there is no air hot or cold what so ever. Is it
possible that the compressor died?
Thanks,
Mitzy

AudioGuy93DelSol
07-17-2006, 10:32 AM
Follow this guide (http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=682412) and post back with the codes you get.

Edit: And don't double post.

mgan9311
07-17-2006, 11:53 AM
Okay, great. Thanks a lot. never done this before, but I will try that tonight. A few questions. If I do not have copper speaker wires to use, is there anythings else that will work? Also, is it possible for there to be more that one code when I am doing this and if so, what is the indicator that its going to be a different code if any, after the first code? One more, will there be a code if the check engine light doesn't come on during the day and just in the morning...in other words does it matter if the check engine light comes on just in the mornings or everytime I start my car? The past few days, its only been coming on in the mornings and fine the rest of the day for some reason.

AudioGuy93DelSol
07-17-2006, 12:30 PM
You can use a thin paper clip. I think the ecu stores up to three codes. There will be a long pause in between the codes and it keeps repaeating them. Also, they will still display even if the light isn't on, as long as you haven't unplugged your battery since the last time the light came on.

mgan9311
07-17-2006, 12:41 PM
Thanks. I will let you know as soon as possible.

mgan9311
07-18-2006, 09:13 AM
Here are the codes I got:

4 - (ckp) crank position sensor
7- (tps) throttle position sensor
41- oxygen sensor heater

I am wondering if only one problem is causing the other two problems.

According to my manual, the ckp sensor has to do with fuel timing for the fuel injection, ignition on each cylinder, and engine RPM; and the tps sensor detects the position for fuel delivery. The O2 sensor heater heats up the O2 so that the O2 sensor can keep a constant and proper mix of O2 and fuel for low emissions. It says to test the sensors with a V/O meter (volts/ohms) which I don't have right now in my possession. Hypothetically speaking, could it be that the O2 sensor heater has gone bad; therefore, causing the O2 sensor to not mix O2 and fuel properly, thus causing the ckp sensor to read defective timing (based on the fuel/O2 mix) and, furthermore, the tps sensor is getting bursts of fuel because the ckp sensor timing is off???

I do have a crack in my exhaust manifold, possibly causing a vacuum leak, which I guess could throw off the who O2 sensor heater thing, but until I fix and clear the first three codes, I won't know if the ECU is coding for that. Plus I am no professional here, I am just trying to figure out how to think about these things in a mechanical way.

What's your diagnosis?

AudioGuy93DelSol
07-18-2006, 10:26 AM
I've seen a crank sensor go bad and cause the ECU to throw codes for all kinds of other sensors. I'd check that first, then check the TPS. Those are both very important sensors in engine control. The o2 sensor is really just for fine tuning and the ECU ignores its signals when it's in open loop (warming up.) Even if it wasn't there, you wouldn't have all those problems. Go to radioshack and get the little yellow pocket multimeter. It's like $22 and they work great. Get the specs for the crank and TP sensors and test them. Test the o2 as well. Replace anything that is out of range.

mgan9311
07-18-2006, 11:25 AM
Thanks. I will do that and post an update when I get a chance. Thanks for all your help!

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