I Need Some Help Guys! A/c Only Blowing To Defrost I Had It In The Shop My Mecanic Replaced Vaccum Line That Runs To Engine, A/c Worked Fine For A Week! Took It Back He Replaced All Vaccum Hoses
Under The Hood He Said Every Thing Tested Good. The Problem Is He Said It Could Be The Vacuum Switch Or Vaccum Lines In The Dash He Quoted Me 5 Hr Min @ $80.00 Per Hr! Is This Something I Could Do Myself I Have Already Spent $300.00 So Far On This A/c Problem. The A/c Kicks On After About 5-10 Miles . Any Help Would Be Greatly Appreciated!!!!!!!

Connet a vacuum gauge to the line just after the check valve, and just before the "T" and where it enters the harness into the passenger compartment. If the vacuum is not strong and steady there, the vacuum reservoir (Sphere of Nothingess) is suspect. It is mounted to the right frame rail, almost directly below the AC evaporator case, and is about 5-6" in diameter, and black plastic.

thanks for the reply! my mechanic said he tested as he called it the "black ball" it was o.k. he said there was 60psi in the lines.

If your mechanic has verified that there is vacuum at the line entering the passenger compartment, his/her diagnosis is probably correct - You'll have to remove the HVAC control and inspect the lines and connections there.

Of course, you can do this yourself. You'll have to pay attention to the disassembly, be particularly aware of where fasteners are located (screws, clips, velcro), and work in an organized manner. If you have the typical passenger van with all the amenities (center console compartment, radio, typical instrumentation) you'll need to remove the dash trim bezel to expose the HVAC mode control. Plan on several hours of "quality time" with your vehicle. None of the work is physically demanding or difficult, but it will take time.

You'll need some basic hand tools, particularly a GOOD #1 and #2 Phillips driver (no rounded or worn tips), and a 7mm nut driver or socket with a speed handle will be invaluable. A good light source will also be handy.

Disable the Theft-Loc II on your radio if it is enabled (owners' manual). Disconnect the battery negative cable and isolate it from the battery terminal. Remove the lower bolster trim beneath the steering wheel. Remove any fasteners from the lower edge of the instrument panel trim bezel and from within the top edge around the instrument cluster (above the speedometer). CAREFULLY pull the trim bezel rearward to release the clips which hold it to the dash. The trim bezel covers everything from the LH air conditioner outlet to the RH end of the center console/pedestal. Remove it slowly, and expect a few of the clips to remain in the dash instead of releasing - You can remove them with pliers and reattach them to the bezel before assembly. With the entire trim bezel removed, the hex screws retaining the HVAC mode control can be removed, and the control can be carefully pulled rearward from the dash. Once the control is exposed, examine the hose connections for missing hoses, cracks, or other damage. If there is nothing obviously wrong or missing at this stage, reconnect the battery and start the engine. Listen carefully for any signs of vacuum leakage (hissing) around the control or in the dash near the opening. Slowly move the control from position to position, noting any changes in noise (vacuum) or damper position in the system. With the engine running, you can remove the vacuum source hose and check for vacuum. The should be the black hose with a purple stripe, but I'm not absolutely certain of that on a '01. If there is vacuum present at this hose and none of the damper function operate, the control itelf may have failed internally (cracks/plastic degradation) or is leaking at the seals. You should have some audible indication of internal leakage. At this point, you can either replace the control or attempt to disassemble and reseal it. Many times the electrical connector can be unplugged and the two halves of the control can be disassembled, cleaned, and resealed with pure silicone grease (tune up grease) to restore proper operation. Reassemble in the reverse order. If any of the spring clips released from the trim bezel and remaind in the dash, remove them with pliers and attach them to the appropriate points on the trim bezel, then snap the trim back into place. If you have any indicator or instrument lamps that haven't been working, this would be a good time to remove the instrument cluster and repair that as well.
If you're not comfortable with this, you'll need to employ someone else to do the same thing.

thanks!!!! i'm off work this week so i have plenty of time.
i'll keep you posted..

well i tried but got scared when i got to the insturment panel
i think im going to take it to another mechanic. i did get the a\c control out
(the one above the radio) there was no vacuum at all i removed the little housing that had all the diff colored lines going to it turned on the engine, put my finger over the holes still no vacuum? thanks again for all the info you gave me!! i'll keep you posted when i get this fixed. it's 100 deg + here in lovely riverside ca.. and i ain't no small cat...:uhoh: