Green brake fluid?
Green brake fluid?
05-30-2006, 04:03 PM
05-30-2006, 06:09 PM
First I have heard of it.....but who knows what someone else may have put in it.
The Motorcraft "Premium" brake fluid is clear, or pretty darn close to clear.
I have used it for bleeding the brakes on my '96.
It is good stuff, rated dry boil temp. is 550 degrees F. , which is well above the minimum rating for DOT 3 or 4
05-31-2006, 05:01 AM
I have a 2000 Windstar LX 3.8 and have bled the brakes. Fluid looked 'normal' to me; no hint of green.
05-31-2006, 08:27 AM
Are the brake lines copper? If so this could be where the green is coming from. I do not believe it is normal for the fluid to be green but it could be that you have water disolved in the fluid and it iss oxidizing the fluid.
In any event I would bleed the system to replace the fluid. Try and empty the resevoir first and then bleed with fresh fluid in the resevoir.
05-31-2006, 05:52 PM
The lines are steel, copper is NOT to be used.
Copper lines will not hold the pressure that will be present in a brake system.
That said, I do not know if there are any copper parts elsewhere in the brake system.
I guess, if you do not know what someone else has put in, the best thing would be a complete brake system flush as you have been advised.
05-31-2006, 05:58 PM
I have seen brake fluid turn green on other cars, too. It's do to the age of the brake fluid. I have even seen brake fluid turn almost black in color.
05-31-2006, 06:05 PM
Very good point.....which makes me think over the "official" instructions that I have read from several sources for doing a brake job.
Mine was near black at each wheel....
The repair instructions to replace the pads is to drain some fluid out of the master cylinder, then push the piston in.
They do not have you bleed the brakes during a brake job.
This means that the fluid that has become hot and / or contaminated is never drained out of the system.
So, first time that I did the front brakes on my own on my '96 was about 2 years ago.
I bled them the next year, and the fluid was slightly darkened at each wheel, but not anywhere near as bad.
05-31-2006, 09:27 PM
I have always believed that brake fluid absorbs moisture over time so a complete bleed every couple of years is probably a good regular maintenance item............ although I have to admit I don't do it often enough.
05-31-2006, 09:53 PM
I always open the bleeder before pushing the piston in, this keeps you from pushing that black fluid back into the system. I then top off the master and bleed the system a little just to get rid of the black.
06-01-2006, 04:34 PM
Thanks for all the input everybody. I used a mityvac hand pump to flush my system and it was a one-man breeze. I pulled the ABS sensors while I was at it and the rear sensors were packed with gunk. No more ABS light now. All in all, a productive afternoon. Now for the intake isolator bolt fix.....
06-01-2006, 08:56 PM
You'll like the Isolator bolt/port seal job. A good chance to clean out the oil in the plenum and the EGR ports.
06-04-2006, 08:08 PM
I just flushed the brake fluid on my 2000 windstar and the stuff I pulled out was a greenish color. Has anyone else seen this before? I've read about a specialized type of brake fluid that is green in color and is not compatible with any other type, but ford doesn't use this type as far as I know.
does anyone have instructions for how to bleed the brakes on my 98 windstar? I am going to try and replace the rotors, but it looks like i need to bleed the brakes first. anyone have any info on that? thanks
06-04-2006, 10:49 PM
Is this you're first brake job?
We can help.
1. Can you get a haynes/chiltons manual? (Library, etc. )
2. Read Manual, post back here with questions.
3 Replace rotors.
4. Bleed Brakes.
06-05-2006, 12:06 AM
I have some pictures, that the link in my signature will take you to, that may help you with your brakes.
Use a repair guide along with the pictures.
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