Brakes wont bleed Time to panic

I went to bleed the brakes on a freinds car by myself and got air in the lines and now I cant get them to bleed. Pedal keeps going to the floor. HELP!!

Your question is confusing. What does "won't bleed" mean? The procedure (especially with a second person's help) is pretty straightforward - but how familiar are you with it?

I am very familuar exept for ABS. I was using a one person bleed too and the hose had a crack so i was pumping away and i think I have massive air in lines now i cant get them bled even with two people. Do I need to bleed ABS if so how

I'm not sure, but I don't think you'd get air in the ABS system just by working with the regular system. I believe they are entirely separate.

Start over. Bleed the location furthest from the master cyl first (right rear). You may have to push a lot of fluid through if the bubbles are near the master cyl. Then the next closest (left rear) and so on.

In your case, start with the wheel neareast to the master cylinder, front left one, so you can bleed the air asap. After the air is out and the brake paddle is not empty, re-do the regular bleeding.

After the air get into the master cylinder, there is not much you can do but keep pumping and bleeding. Pump slowly, it may take some time before you can see the bubbles coming out.

Hope this helps.

Or hope that your friend gets so pissed at you that you get mad at him and just leave the air in the brake lines.

Or just keep bleedin like everyone said.

I find gravity bleeding to be the answer here sometimes. Like they said, you didn't get air in the ABS system without ABS actuation.

Fill the resevoir, take all the bleeder screws OUT, and have someone stand ready to keep the resevoir full. As soon as you see fluid at a bleeder, and no air popping out of that line, put the bleeder screw back in and close it. At the point where all have had fluid flow and are now closed, you will have some pedal, and it should bleed easy from that point. Sometimes it will be fine as it is. Do not touch the brake pedal until all screws are closed up.

After the air get into the master cylinder, there is not much you can do but keep pumping and bleeding. Pump slowly, it may take some time before you can see the bubbles coming out.

Hope this helps.

Air in the master isn't hard to deal with.

You can have someone depress the pedal while you loosen one brake line where it comes into the master. Any trapped air in the bore will escape just like from a bleeder screw, then tighten it before the pedal is released.

Whenever you are dealing with a "dead pedal" like you have, take care not to bottom out the pedal (don't hit the floor with it), doing so can damage the piston/bore in the master. They have an overtravel spring inside designed to prevent this, but repeated bottoming can still cause damage.

If you are pushing air, pushing harder doesn't do anything but further compress it, so full pedal travel isn't called for. The point is to make sure the system is closed up before allowing the pedal to return at all.