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s10 1.9 to 2.8 swap


shdwtech
05-26-2006, 07:06 PM
I switched my OLD 1.9 l over to a 2.8. I ran into a problem with the wiring harness. Most of the hook ups are the same, but the coil and dist connections are different. the 2.8 has the electronic ign, where as the 1.9 had the coil and dist. stuff. also ran into a problem with my carburator wires. any 1 know what I could do. Obviously getting a wiring harness would be yhe best, but its an 83, and chevy discontinued that part. any aftermarket?

OverBoardProject
05-27-2006, 12:16 AM
If you absolutely can't find it I can get you the distributer that you need, but I can't offer a waranty on it. The trucks been sitting for a while close to the ocean on Vancouver Island.

Look for an 85 or older S10 and you should find the right distributer and coil.

Only wire needed for the carb is the choke wire (unless you have air conditioning, then you require 1 more wire). I'm 1/2 thinking that you got yourself a Throttle Body Fuel Injected motor.

Again, if you can't find 1 I can get you a carburated intake manifold, but if it comes with a carb I'd recomend that you exchange it for a professionally re-built carb. They're pricy!.

I don't like getting parts for other people, but know what it feels like to be soo close to getting a car running and not being able to get parts.

shdwtech
05-28-2006, 07:33 PM
Hey thanks alot for the offer!! found that my dist is ok, wound up re creating the wire harness to fit the truck, in the process of putting it all back together now. I suppose if the thing bursts into flame, then I must've done something wrong, otherwise, if it doesn't work, any Idea where I can find the wire harness for the engine, 83 s10 2.8, carburated. found a few aftermarkets, but they want like 100 bucks,
thx

OverBoardProject
05-28-2006, 07:45 PM
If it doesn't work I would jst spend $100.00 for the aftermarket.
The 23 year old wire harnesses that you might find at the wrecker won't be in good shape any more, and your still risking a fire in a truck theat you obiously did a lot of work on.

shdwtech
05-29-2006, 12:46 PM
well

did the whole rewire thing, I get power to the instrument panel, and lights. however the ignition switch wint turn over the starter moter. Is there a cutout on a standard transmission that would interrupt the signal? also, just a thought, but what about the ecm....most likely they are different between the two engines, so where is it? btw, a jump between the leads on the starter DOES turn the engine over.

OverBoardProject
05-29-2006, 07:32 PM
There's a cutoff switch hooked up to the clutch pedal. I believe that it's under the dash. This might be your problem.
I don't think that our rides have a ECM, but I might be wrong.

You sure did a lot of work there, and should be proud of yourself when it's running, which should be any time not.

shdwtech
05-29-2006, 09:57 PM
You don't know the half of it brother!! But guess what. Went to the yard today, snagged an s10 durango wire harness, hooked er up, and voila, over she went, started up and ran fine...till the gas ran out. No mechanical fuel pump. I have an electric, but I'm not sure where to run the wiring for it. My oil sensor is of the singlr tab type, so not there. I am thinkin through the firewall and in to the fuse box. also found a small power leech somewhere that I have to track down. This thing strated as a simple head job on a 1.9. but due to the rarity of that engine I went to a 2.8, then swapped out tranny, did the rewire, after it is alive again, a trip down to maaco for a paint job!! still need to do some welding on the exhaust, as I went from a single to a double...

OverBoardProject
05-29-2006, 11:25 PM
I've got a diagram on 1 of my web sites on how to wire in a fuel pump. Let me look it up later. I made it up for someone else on the forum.

Don't get a maaco paint job.
Give it your own $50.00 Canadian paint job, like this guy did
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/69martin/paint/DSC02763.jpg
You can read how he did it on this forum (I got this article from BlazerLT)
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1


here's how i painted my car for about $50, it's actually very easy and the results are amazing. First off, get a can of tremclad real orange (or what ever color u want) in the can, not spray, yes tremclad, it is a acrylic/enamel paint which is very durable. next prep your car as if was any other paint job, fix all the rust, ect....no need to prime the car since the tremclad allready contains elements which allow it to be painted over bare metal. next, after prepping the car get a small 4" professional FOAM rollers, it's tiny and has one end rounded off, and the other cut straight, and is a very high density foam. u also need a jug of mineral spirits to thin the paint. The thing i really like about this is that there's no mess, no tapeing the whole car, just key areas, and u can do it in your garage, since your not spraying there is virtually no dust in the air, just clean your garage first, also it does'nt really smell at all, dries overnight and it super tough paint. also it you decide to paint the car professionally later, just prep and paint, there's no need to strip the tremclad. i have done this to a few cars, and i can say it works amazing, u just have to be paitient. next u thin the paint with mineral spirits so it just about as thin as water, a little thicker. get out the roller and paint away, don't get the paint shaked when u buy it, enamel is stirred, otherwise you'll have bubbles in the paint for a week!!! after u do 2 coats, wet sand the whole car, then repeat, 2 coats, wetsand, 2 coats wetsand. i painted the charger using a can since your not spraying the car u use all the paint and not spray 50% in the air, use progressivly finer sand paper each time. it's not really that much work, cause u can stop and start any time, u can do just a door, or the hood, ect. do one panel at a time, and don't stop once you start. once your done the final coat, wetsand with about 1000 grit to a totally smooth finish, and then using a high speed polisher i use a buffing bonnet and turtle wax polishing compound. do the whole car with this, and i'm telling u, depending on the amount of time and paitence you have, the results are amazing. laugh if you want, but for $50 ($30 for paint, about $20 for rollers, sand paper, ect...) it really looks good. also you can do these steps overnight, paint one evening and by morning u can wet sand. i have personally done alot of painting, mostly single stage acrylic enamel, and i've sprayed several cars in my garage with really good professional results, just it stinks, it's a real pain to do, easy to make a mistake, messy, and expensive. The tremclad is awesome paint, the "real orange" is an amazing hemi orange, and almost looks like it has some perl in the sun, awesome color right out of the can. I used this technique on my 1974 beetle also

OverBoardProject
05-30-2006, 12:19 AM
It took me a while to find this... I've made a lot of posts to sort through :eek7:

The write up that I did is located here
http://mypage.uniserve.ca/~kvsbt/scrap/Fuel%20Pump%20wire.html


#4 the switched power suply can be the choke wire, or better yet the carburators kick down wire designed for the air conditioner.

shdwtech
05-30-2006, 03:56 PM
hey thanks for the diagram, the paint idea is pretty cool too!!. been concentrating so much on the engine, just discovered that the linkage from clutch pedal to clutch is too short, off to the yard...grrrr.:banghead:

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