Power door lock problem
doorlock
05-22-2006, 05:34 PM
i have a 1994 toyota camry xle it has a problem with the door locks. the front passenger door doesnt seem to operate when the unlock or lock button is pressed. i have to manually turn it. does any one now how i can crack the door open to see if any of the wire isnt connected or broken? there is an alarm system and i think my uncle manhandled the lock to get the door open.
ice745
06-01-2006, 07:52 PM
To take the door panel off is quite simple, as long as you at least have the patience of an 8 year old with A.D.D., if not we have a problem, lol. Then we need needle nose pliers (they don't need to be long, a small electronics one will do wonders), 2 flat head screwdrivers (One pretty small, used to pry small parts, but don't use eyeglass sized or it will likely bend; and one pretty big), 1 #2 Phillips head screw driver, and electrical tape...or Duct tape may do, I've never tried. First off, you don't need the flat-heads for any screws, so we may as well start with this step...
1) Put electrical tape around the heads of the flat-head screw drivers (this is to prevent the sharp edges from scratching plastic and paint while prying), you may still scratch and leave some marks even with tape, but it would be a lot worse with out the tape.
2) On the edge of the door panel closest to the latch (right side if looking at front-passenger door) locate the two clips, they will be circular shaped and look like the head of a plastic screw, except there won't be any slots in it for a driver. You should notice they have a smaller circle inside them. Using one of the jaws from the needle nose pliers, gently push the inner circle in, it should pop in about 1/4 of an inch and stop, leave it there. Now GENTLY grasp the outer part of the clip with one jaw in the space that you just popped open, and one jaw on the outer circumference of the clip, and pull out.
3) Once you removed both of these clips, set them aside. Now There are two screws in the arm rest, I know for a fact one is uncovered, its just a deep well in the armrest, I think the other may have a small scew hole cover over it that you can gently pry off with the smaller flat-head screw driver. Then use the #2 Phillips to unscrew both of these screws, you may not get the screws to actually come out since the wells are so deep, but as long as you unthread them all the way and don't loose them.
4) In the map holder, just near where the plastic part ends and the fabric begins, you should find another small screw hole cover, again use the small flat-head to pop it off, to reveal a #2 screw, unscrew him and put him aside. Then on the side of the door panel near the hinge, there should be two scew covers that are a flimsy plastic about 3/4 inch diameter. Use the small flat-head to pop these off. Unscrew the two #2 scews underneath.
5) Now this part is tricky. Now we have to remove the plastic trim piece thats around the door lock/handle. To do this, take you small flat-head screw driver, and slide it gently in between the lock and the trim. Push the handle down slightly, to push the trim piece up, and try to pull the trim toward you slightly. This may take severaly tries, but you should eventually realize when you released the upper clip. Then repeat the same thing upside down for underneath the door handle. The clip under the door handle is A LOT more of a pain than the door lock's clip, so be patient and careful.
6) Once you've release both the upper and lower clips in the trim, open the door handle all the way, and with your other hand pull the trim toward you (you grab it by the side closer to the door lock, and it should kind of hinge like a door handle). Set that aside.
7) Now its time to remove the clips that hold the panel to the metal. This part requires patience and care, or you can break clips; which makes you have to run to the store and buy more for like a dollar or something =-o. With the bigger flat-head screw driver, start at the lower corner of the door panel near the latch and gently push the screw-driver between the metal and panel. Lay on your back and look up in the crack you just made, and try to see the white (or maybe yellow) plastic clip. Once you see it, you want to SLOWLY inch the driver and aim the head to get as close to that clip as possible (it may pop before you get there, popping is good :) ). Once you get to it, if it is still not popped, push the handle of screwdriver toward the metal part of the door slightly til it pops. There are 4 or 5 clips at the bottom of the door panel about 6 inches apart, so repeat this procedure for each one. Once you finish the bottom edge, move on to the edge near the latch, then finally the edge near the hinge (I'm not entirely sure, there may not be any there cuz of the two screws that are there, but check anyway).
8) Now the only thing holding the door panel on is the weather strip between the panel and the window. This stays on the panel, all you have to do to release it is to push up on the bottom of the door panel and the panel slides right out. But before you do that, you should be able to pull the panel toward you at the bottom enough to reach your hand up and disconnect the wire harness connected to the Door/Locks and Power Window controls. It should be easy to do, if you feel like you're forcing the panel toward you at all, than stop. If that happens, you will have to pull it up first, and hold it in place with one hand while you disconnect the harness with another. Once the harness is disconnected, the panel should come right off (just push up at the bottom to unhang it from the window if you haven't already done so). While pushing up, the black trim piece opposite the Power Mirror may get in the way, if that happens, just push up more on the side near the latch first, and then you should be able to easily get the other side around that plastic trim.
Edit: I forgot to mention, the reinstall is pretty much just the same but backwards. For the panel to metal clips, just line them all up with the appropriate holes in the metal and tap the panel with your palm til they pop in, you may have to hit it a bit harder than you thing. Second note, the clips that go in the right side of the door panel (the circles that you pushed in), there is two ways to put them back in. First is while they are out push the inner part back up using your finger, you should push it so it protrudes out now about 1/4 inch. If you can't push it up, sometimes they get stuck, it may be easier to just grab the end of the smaller part and pull it all the way through. Then put the bigger circle part in place, and if you have it so that the inner part is protruding 1/4 inch, just push it so its flush, or if you took it out, just put it back in now and push it til its flush.
1) Put electrical tape around the heads of the flat-head screw drivers (this is to prevent the sharp edges from scratching plastic and paint while prying), you may still scratch and leave some marks even with tape, but it would be a lot worse with out the tape.
2) On the edge of the door panel closest to the latch (right side if looking at front-passenger door) locate the two clips, they will be circular shaped and look like the head of a plastic screw, except there won't be any slots in it for a driver. You should notice they have a smaller circle inside them. Using one of the jaws from the needle nose pliers, gently push the inner circle in, it should pop in about 1/4 of an inch and stop, leave it there. Now GENTLY grasp the outer part of the clip with one jaw in the space that you just popped open, and one jaw on the outer circumference of the clip, and pull out.
3) Once you removed both of these clips, set them aside. Now There are two screws in the arm rest, I know for a fact one is uncovered, its just a deep well in the armrest, I think the other may have a small scew hole cover over it that you can gently pry off with the smaller flat-head screw driver. Then use the #2 Phillips to unscrew both of these screws, you may not get the screws to actually come out since the wells are so deep, but as long as you unthread them all the way and don't loose them.
4) In the map holder, just near where the plastic part ends and the fabric begins, you should find another small screw hole cover, again use the small flat-head to pop it off, to reveal a #2 screw, unscrew him and put him aside. Then on the side of the door panel near the hinge, there should be two scew covers that are a flimsy plastic about 3/4 inch diameter. Use the small flat-head to pop these off. Unscrew the two #2 scews underneath.
5) Now this part is tricky. Now we have to remove the plastic trim piece thats around the door lock/handle. To do this, take you small flat-head screw driver, and slide it gently in between the lock and the trim. Push the handle down slightly, to push the trim piece up, and try to pull the trim toward you slightly. This may take severaly tries, but you should eventually realize when you released the upper clip. Then repeat the same thing upside down for underneath the door handle. The clip under the door handle is A LOT more of a pain than the door lock's clip, so be patient and careful.
6) Once you've release both the upper and lower clips in the trim, open the door handle all the way, and with your other hand pull the trim toward you (you grab it by the side closer to the door lock, and it should kind of hinge like a door handle). Set that aside.
7) Now its time to remove the clips that hold the panel to the metal. This part requires patience and care, or you can break clips; which makes you have to run to the store and buy more for like a dollar or something =-o. With the bigger flat-head screw driver, start at the lower corner of the door panel near the latch and gently push the screw-driver between the metal and panel. Lay on your back and look up in the crack you just made, and try to see the white (or maybe yellow) plastic clip. Once you see it, you want to SLOWLY inch the driver and aim the head to get as close to that clip as possible (it may pop before you get there, popping is good :) ). Once you get to it, if it is still not popped, push the handle of screwdriver toward the metal part of the door slightly til it pops. There are 4 or 5 clips at the bottom of the door panel about 6 inches apart, so repeat this procedure for each one. Once you finish the bottom edge, move on to the edge near the latch, then finally the edge near the hinge (I'm not entirely sure, there may not be any there cuz of the two screws that are there, but check anyway).
8) Now the only thing holding the door panel on is the weather strip between the panel and the window. This stays on the panel, all you have to do to release it is to push up on the bottom of the door panel and the panel slides right out. But before you do that, you should be able to pull the panel toward you at the bottom enough to reach your hand up and disconnect the wire harness connected to the Door/Locks and Power Window controls. It should be easy to do, if you feel like you're forcing the panel toward you at all, than stop. If that happens, you will have to pull it up first, and hold it in place with one hand while you disconnect the harness with another. Once the harness is disconnected, the panel should come right off (just push up at the bottom to unhang it from the window if you haven't already done so). While pushing up, the black trim piece opposite the Power Mirror may get in the way, if that happens, just push up more on the side near the latch first, and then you should be able to easily get the other side around that plastic trim.
Edit: I forgot to mention, the reinstall is pretty much just the same but backwards. For the panel to metal clips, just line them all up with the appropriate holes in the metal and tap the panel with your palm til they pop in, you may have to hit it a bit harder than you thing. Second note, the clips that go in the right side of the door panel (the circles that you pushed in), there is two ways to put them back in. First is while they are out push the inner part back up using your finger, you should push it so it protrudes out now about 1/4 inch. If you can't push it up, sometimes they get stuck, it may be easier to just grab the end of the smaller part and pull it all the way through. Then put the bigger circle part in place, and if you have it so that the inner part is protruding 1/4 inch, just push it so its flush, or if you took it out, just put it back in now and push it til its flush.
ice745
06-01-2006, 08:11 PM
Some more information may help me help you find the problem. First of all, will the power door lock of Front Passenger door work if you use either the lock button from drivers door or Front Passenger door itself, or does neither work?
Secondly, if you use the power door lock button on the front passenger door, does it lock and unlock all of the other doors properly?
Third, is the power door lock on the front passenger door have no motion at all, or does it look like it moves just a tad but stops?
Fourth, does it feel any harder to manually lock the front passenger door than the other doors?
Fifth, do you have any knowledge of electronics? Do you have a multimeter with a continuity/resistance tester?
-------
If you don't have a continuity tester, you can pick up a cheap one at radio-shack. Or if you can just make one easy with some electronics knowledge, because we only need to know if the circuits we test are open or closed, not the actual resistance.
Secondly, if you use the power door lock button on the front passenger door, does it lock and unlock all of the other doors properly?
Third, is the power door lock on the front passenger door have no motion at all, or does it look like it moves just a tad but stops?
Fourth, does it feel any harder to manually lock the front passenger door than the other doors?
Fifth, do you have any knowledge of electronics? Do you have a multimeter with a continuity/resistance tester?
-------
If you don't have a continuity tester, you can pick up a cheap one at radio-shack. Or if you can just make one easy with some electronics knowledge, because we only need to know if the circuits we test are open or closed, not the actual resistance.
majones
06-02-2006, 10:19 AM
Hi, I also have this power lock problem on a 94 camry front passenger door. I have had the door panels off before and can test continuity; just wanted to reply to these questions to see if you can tell me what to check?
[QUOTE=ice745]Some more information may help me help you find the problem. First of all, will the power door lock of Front Passenger door work if you use either the lock button from drivers door or Front Passenger door itself, or does neither work?
Neither works
Secondly, if you use the power door lock button on the front passenger door, does it lock and unlock all of the other doors properly?
Yes
Third, is the power door lock on the front passenger door have no motion at all, or does it look like it moves just a tad but stops?
No motion
Fourth, does it feel any harder to manually lock the front passenger door than the other doors?
No
Fifth, do you have any knowledge of electronics? Do you have a multimeter with a continuity/resistance tester?
Yes
[QUOTE=ice745]Some more information may help me help you find the problem. First of all, will the power door lock of Front Passenger door work if you use either the lock button from drivers door or Front Passenger door itself, or does neither work?
Neither works
Secondly, if you use the power door lock button on the front passenger door, does it lock and unlock all of the other doors properly?
Yes
Third, is the power door lock on the front passenger door have no motion at all, or does it look like it moves just a tad but stops?
No motion
Fourth, does it feel any harder to manually lock the front passenger door than the other doors?
No
Fifth, do you have any knowledge of electronics? Do you have a multimeter with a continuity/resistance tester?
Yes
ice745
06-03-2006, 05:40 PM
To Majones.
It sounds like either a burnt out motor or a broken wire to the motor. The door lock motor is located near the latch inside the door. You should find a wire harness connected to it, disconnect that. I am not sure how the harness is oriented on the motor assembly, but to identify the pins.
...|--| ...... <--- This is the harness on the motor assembly
--------.......... not the end of the wire!
| 2 | 1 |
--------
| 4 | 3 |
--------
Remove the car battery, and move it over to the door you are testing. Connect +12 volts to Pin 2 and -12 volts to Pin 4; the door lock should Unlock; reverse the polarity, +12 volts on Pin 4 and -12 volts on Pin 2 and the door lock should lock. If it does not, then the motor is bad. Just know that if you short the battery the wire will melt and the battery may explode. The melting wire will get hot enough to leave its mark in your hand, so use caution. Just as a precaution, I would check the resistance between pin 2 and 4 and make sure there is some resistance there, given the 3.2 amps the motor normally takes, the resistance should be about 4 ohms.
Now with the door locked, there should be no continuity between Pins 1 and 3; with the door unlocked, there should pins 1 and 3 should have continuity. This tests the door unlock detection switch.
If either of them do not function properly, address that issue, I'm not sure how serviceable the parts are or if you'll have to buy the whole assembly, it probably depends on the extent of the damage.
If both of them function properly, or after fixing them the door still won't lock or unlock; you're going to have to start testing the wires in the harness you disconnected trying to find where the break is in the wire. If the wire is broken and you find where you may be able to insert a small piece of wire to patch it. I recommend soldering and covering it with electric tape, but you may get away with wire caps too. If the broken wire has a lot of damage, like missing insulation or a good portion melted, I would recommend trying to figure out how to remove the wire from the plastic harness and replacing it with fresh wire, or cutting as much of the wire off as you can while still leaving you with enough wire at each harness end to splice a new wire on.
It sounds like either a burnt out motor or a broken wire to the motor. The door lock motor is located near the latch inside the door. You should find a wire harness connected to it, disconnect that. I am not sure how the harness is oriented on the motor assembly, but to identify the pins.
...|--| ...... <--- This is the harness on the motor assembly
--------.......... not the end of the wire!
| 2 | 1 |
--------
| 4 | 3 |
--------
Remove the car battery, and move it over to the door you are testing. Connect +12 volts to Pin 2 and -12 volts to Pin 4; the door lock should Unlock; reverse the polarity, +12 volts on Pin 4 and -12 volts on Pin 2 and the door lock should lock. If it does not, then the motor is bad. Just know that if you short the battery the wire will melt and the battery may explode. The melting wire will get hot enough to leave its mark in your hand, so use caution. Just as a precaution, I would check the resistance between pin 2 and 4 and make sure there is some resistance there, given the 3.2 amps the motor normally takes, the resistance should be about 4 ohms.
Now with the door locked, there should be no continuity between Pins 1 and 3; with the door unlocked, there should pins 1 and 3 should have continuity. This tests the door unlock detection switch.
If either of them do not function properly, address that issue, I'm not sure how serviceable the parts are or if you'll have to buy the whole assembly, it probably depends on the extent of the damage.
If both of them function properly, or after fixing them the door still won't lock or unlock; you're going to have to start testing the wires in the harness you disconnected trying to find where the break is in the wire. If the wire is broken and you find where you may be able to insert a small piece of wire to patch it. I recommend soldering and covering it with electric tape, but you may get away with wire caps too. If the broken wire has a lot of damage, like missing insulation or a good portion melted, I would recommend trying to figure out how to remove the wire from the plastic harness and replacing it with fresh wire, or cutting as much of the wire off as you can while still leaving you with enough wire at each harness end to splice a new wire on.
jdmccright
06-09-2006, 02:32 PM
I have a similar problem on my '92 Camry LE. Right front passenger door lock won't work most of the time. My difference being that I can hear the lock motor/actuator working, but the manual lock tab only moves a little. All the other buttons work on that door panel and the tab doesn't feel any more or less difficult to move than the driver's side. How can I get to the actuator and test/fix it?
Automotive Network, Inc., Copyright ©2024