2000 Windstar driver window doesnt work.


iam4uf
05-21-2006, 07:54 PM
MY 2000 Ford Windstar drivers window wont work. The passenger and the back work fine just not the drivers front. I hear a clicking noise when a hit the button. I took the door panel off and looked at the window motor. How do I test the window motor? A friend of mine said that if you apply 12 volts to motor it should roll up and down. He suggested unplugging the connecter taking jumper cables and attach an extended paper click to one end and touch the motor. He said if the motor is good it should roll down. Any help on this is appreciated. Thanks

LeSabre97mint
05-21-2006, 10:11 PM
MY 2000 Ford Windstar drivers window wont work. The passenger and the back work fine just not the drivers front. I hear a clicking noise when a hit the button. I took the door panel off and looked at the window motor. How do I test the window motor? A friend of mine said that if you apply 12 volts to motor it should roll up and down. He suggested unplugging the connecter taking jumper cables and attach an extended paper click to one end and touch the motor. He said if the motor is good it should roll down. Any help on this is appreciated. Thanks

Hello

Clicking is a good thing to hear. That means that your switch is working and what you're hearing is probably the relay clicking. What I would do is to remove the connecter from the motor and take a test light and see if you have 12 volts when the switch is moved. If you don't get power to the plug I would replace the relay. You could try switching the passenger relay with the driverside. Relays do wear out.

It's been a while since I did trouble shooting on this and I can't remember what the wires do coming to the motor. Is one for up and the other down and the ground is the door and the motor casing? Or is the polarity switched on the wires for up and down? Hopefully someone can chime in on this one.

Regards

Dan

iam4uf
05-22-2006, 08:56 AM
Where are the window relays located? The clicking is coming from a silver metal box with 3 electric connecters attached. Doesnt look like it can be opened. Thanks

CoachKarl
05-22-2006, 10:13 PM
Clicking? Would you also say a GGGGGGrinding noise coming from inside the door? Just like a noise that a power window pinion gear that has worn all it's teeth down would make? There is no relay involved here, they "Click" almost undiscernably. I'll betcha everyone in the car knows when this thing "GGGGGGGGGGGGrinds"! You test that motor as follows.

1. You've already got the door opened up.
2. Throw the ignition key to "ON"
3. Shine a flashlight directly at the window motor pinion.
4. "Mash" the Window Up/Down Button.
5. If the sound is coming from the general vacinity of where you're flashlight is pointed, replace it! (the window motor).

iam4uf
05-23-2006, 07:44 AM
No, the noise is Definitely not coming from the window. It just makes a click once when I go up or down with the switch. The click is coming from a metal box that has 3 electrical harnesses plugged into it under the dash right next to the fuse box on the drivers side.

iam4uf
05-30-2006, 07:41 AM
anyone know where the window relays are on a 2000 Ford Windstar?

CoachKarl
05-30-2006, 10:41 PM
Hello,

The dreary silence you have experienced, I'm sure, is due to the fact that there are no relays involved in your problem. No-one knows of where a relay is, because, there is no relay involved. Mearly continuity. When you mash that window button, you deliver power to the Up/Down motor. That's all. The click sound you hear is a failed broken plastic pinion gear meant to drive the window rack up and down. To confirm, do the hose in your ear/stethescope trick. I'm sure I'm right about this. You must open the door cavity to fix this. Do you want more details? My only reservation is the fact that I own a 95, and my Haynes Manuel only goes through 98, and someone mentions a "master" control. Maybe I can be trumped.

Karl

Karl

iam4uf
05-31-2006, 08:26 AM
I would love more info. But, Im telling you the clicking DOES NOT come from the door. It comes from a metal box under the dash on the drivers side.

CoachKarl
05-31-2006, 10:54 PM
I believe you.

It's just that . . .

Haynes 95-98 had no mention of a window relay in it's diagnosis section on the subject. If your car manual has no info on a window relay, and you hear a noise under the dash, and you want to do this yourself, THEN . . . . . .

Stick a 3' piece of tubing in one ear, a plug in the other. Get comfortable laying on the driver side floor, throw the ignition, mash the window button, and poke that tube around. Post back as to what you find.

Karl

lewisnc100
06-01-2006, 06:55 AM
It comes from a metal box under the dash on the drivers side.

Sounds like the Front Electronic Module (FEM) which is located under the dash as you are describing. Power to the driver's window motor is provided through this module.

bgriek
06-01-2006, 08:22 AM
Just use a test light and probe the wires at the connection to the window motor. There are just two wires. One is hot for up and other one is hot for down. I had this problem on my 95 and now am starting to this have problem on my 00 SEL. The right side quit first on the 95 and both quit before 100k. I also got this loud clicking but had power to the motors. I hit the left motor with a hammer and and it worked for three days before it quit again. I knew it wasn't worn out so i took the left one out and took it apart. Couldn't find anything wrong with it so I just cleaned it good and sanded the brushes lightly. I put it back together and it worked for a couple of days and quit again. I tried one more time but this time I stretched the brush springs to give it more tension. I knew that I was getting a bad connection in the motor. It quit again after a few days.:banghead: I finally gave up and put in new window motors and never had any more problems. I know other people who have had this problem and it always turns out to be that the motor needs replaced.

ricer eater
08-08-2006, 12:11 PM
I have a 2001 Windstar with exactly the same behavior with the passenger side window. I took the door panel off tapped the motor with the backside of the screwdriver a few times, and now works fine. Probably a matter of time before it fails again. Any disassembly and/or install instructions available for removing and replacing the motor? Thanks
Just use a test light and probe the wires at the connection to the window motor. There are just two wires. One is hot for up and other one is hot for down. I had this problem on my 95 and now am starting to this have problem on my 00 SEL. The right side quit first on the 95 and both quit before 100k. I also got this loud clicking but had power to the motors. I hit the left motor with a hammer and and it worked for three days before it quit again. I knew it wasn't worn out so i took the left one out and took it apart. Couldn't find anything wrong with it so I just cleaned it good and sanded the brushes lightly. I put it back together and it worked for a couple of days and quit again. I tried one more time but this time I stretched the brush springs to give it more tension. I knew that I was getting a bad connection in the motor. It quit again after a few days.:banghead: I finally gave up and put in new window motors and never had any more problems. I know other people who have had this problem and it always turns out to be that the motor needs replaced.

bratoto
03-15-2012, 10:03 AM
I have the same exact issue with my driver side window. pushing the button on and off , hearing the click noise coming under the panel and window does not work. the strange part about it is that that window works whenever it wants: 3 month is off and suddenly it start working for few weeks , after that it's going off, again... or some of the other windows stop working for some period and then going back to operating. makes me feel nothing wrong with the regulator/motor. it happened few times to me before now. for last few month it did not work at all, other windows fine and i need to pass my safety insp. Could it be just the switch it self?

Searles Lewis
03-15-2012, 03:49 PM
MY 2000 Ford Windstar drivers window wont work. The passenger and the back work fine just not the drivers front. I hear a clicking noise when a hit the button. I took the door panel off and looked at the window motor. How do I test the window motor? A friend of mine said that if you apply 12 volts to motor it should roll up and down. He suggested unplugging the connecter taking jumper cables and attach an extended paper click to one end and touch the motor. He said if the motor is good it should roll down. Any help on this is appreciated. Thanks

I have had to do this. Go to a junk yard, and take off the riveted-in engine on a window, and replace it. I have also had to do this with replacing the door lock actuator.

Here's a decent link....
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_replace_a_window_motor_and_regulator_on _a_Ford_Windstar


Here's another forum link, with a pdf for the actual plans here:

http://www.fordforumsonline.com/forum/ford-windstar/3016-02-windstar-front-window-motor-replacement.html

and then

http://www.fordforumsonline.com/forum/attachments/ford-windstar/1815d1285034286-02-windstar-front-window-motor-replacement-03windstar-window-motor.pdf

Searles Lewis
03-15-2012, 03:55 PM
I have the same exact issue with my driver side window. pushing the button on and off , hearing the click noise coming under the panel and window does not work. the strange part about it is that that window works whenever it wants: 3 month is off and suddenly it start working for few weeks , after that it's going off, again... or some of the other windows stop working for some period and then going back to operating. makes me feel nothing wrong with the regulator/motor. it happened few times to me before now. for last few month it did not work at all, other windows fine and i need to pass my safety insp. Could it be just the switch it self?

Yes, or else the motor regulator is starting to go. It does both things when it is starting to go-intermittent and then failure.


I checked the little electric fuse box inside the door on the left hand driver's side, no problems, removed the one and then stuck it back it, nothing, then just replaced the door actuator. Now the door actuator on the passenger side and the window regulator and motor both do not work.

When I searched for it 2 years ago, I found the same problems listed all over the internet. Ford electronics stink, are really buggy, only way to be sure is to totally replace them when they start acting this way.

At a junk yard, you can pull out the switches in the door handle and the door ,if you have a punch for the rivets. Then, just take it home and re-install.

I tried fighting with it, only got cold, and irritated. I replaced it ,and it worked.

Twons
08-09-2012, 10:53 PM
We also have a 2000 Windstar that I have to tear open tomorrow and figure out this same issue on the driver side. There is definitely a relay ticking at the location of each of the 4 powered windows but it really only can be heard in a quiet environment when trying to close an already closed window or when opening an already open window, presumably because the motor noise of a moving window covers up the relay tick sound. The only difference with my driver side window (that is stuck in the full down position right now) is that there is no relay tick when trying to close the window, this leads me to believe there is a dead spot on the switch, or the relay has partially malfunctioned, but we'll see...

Regarding all the Ford comments on this model, we have been told by a couple of mechanics that this model was actually manufactured by Nissan (for some reason I always think it's Mitsubishi, but it's really Nissan). Apparently Nissan already had the model in it's pipeline during the late 90's at a point when Ford started the process of re-engineering it's minivan offering. Ford made a deal with Nissan to re-brand their product rather than leave a hole in their product line. Not sure when they started the deal but I guess they did this until the '03 model before dropping it, skipping the minivan segment for a year and adding the "Freestar" in '05.

65val
08-27-2013, 07:13 PM
My 1999 has this problem. I removed the plastic door panel to reveal the window motor. Tapped it a few times and it worked fine...for a while, then quit again. This time I removed the motor from the regulator. Ford is nice enough to provide 2 dimples in the inner door structure which you drill out with a 1/2" drill to reveal the motor mounting screws...no need to remove the rivetted-in-place regulator to do this. I disassembled the motor and used some electronic contact cleaning solution on the commutator/brushes and its working again....don't know for how long. If I need to replace the motor, it can now be done using a 1/4" drive/7mm socket to get to the mounting screws. So much easier than a GM product I used to have.

tomj76
09-03-2013, 01:35 PM
Check the GEM module. This controls the window motor relay. My '96 Windstar had a problem with the GEM where the window would sometimes not work, but other times it would move like normal. Whenever the window would not operate, my rear window defogger also would not work. I fixed the GEM, and eliminated the problem.

65val
09-03-2013, 09:35 PM
Check the GEM module. This controls the window motor relay. My '96 Windstar had a problem with the GEM where the window would sometimes not work, but other times it would move like normal. Whenever the window would not operate, my rear window defogger also would not work. I fixed the GEM, and eliminated the problem.

Tom...I don't think thats my problem as a light tap on the motor gets it going again. Rear window defog has no issues.

tomj76
09-05-2013, 12:35 PM
I see your point. It could be that the motor is on its last leg... the brushes eventually wear out of those things. Did you notice if the length of the remaining brush material? Remember that the spring won't press the brush against the communtator as tightly, which leads to more sparking which "burns" the contacts and can leave dead spots.

It may be a long shot, but you may just have a bad contact at the electrical connector.

65val
09-05-2013, 06:07 PM
I see your point. It could be that the motor is on its last leg... the brushes eventually wear out of those things. Did you notice if the length of the remaining brush material? Remember that the spring won't press the brush against the communtator as tightly, which leads to more sparking which "burns" the contacts and can leave dead spots.

It may be a long shot, but you may just have a bad contact at the electrical connector.

I didn't get the motor that far apart...I just got it separated from the gear system, then squirted some electrical contact cleaner at the comm. and brushes...it's working correctly now, and has been for the last 2 weeks or so...hopefully stays that way!!

A faulty electrical connector is a possibility...if it quits again, I'll check that first. Thanks for the tip.

uzzo2
09-06-2013, 09:03 AM
Here is a very good tutorial on the window motor replacement by wiswind.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=706338&highlight=wiswind%2C+power+window+motor

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