rear diff pinion seal.

95 Blazer LT 2 dr/2wd, 186,000 mi.

Two weeks two problems. Last week I had to replace the fuel pump and now I noticed a vibration in the rear end upon accelration. A co-worker following me home the other day said he noticed a puff of smoke from under the vehicle as I was going up hills.

This morning I looked under the diff and saw a leak from the front pinion seal. I have never tore into a rear end on a blazer before. I was wondering if I need any special tools before I start or if anyone has any advice before I get myself into a pickle.

I feel I was pressing my luck last week by cutting a hole in the bed to change the fuel pump instead of dropping the tank but that seemed to work out ok. Side note....I got the fuel pump for $75 plus the strainer $7 ( a lot for a pump )

95 Blazer LT 2 dr/2wd, 186,000 mi.

Two weeks two problems. Last week I had to replace the fuel pump and now I noticed a vibration in the rear end upon accelration. A co-worker following me home the other day said he noticed a puff of smoke from under the vehicle as I was going up hills.

This morning I looked under the diff and saw a leak from the front pinion seal. I have never tore into a rear end on a blazer before. I was wondering if I need any special tools before I start or if anyone has any advice before I get myself into a pickle.

I feel I was pressing my luck last week by cutting a hole in the bed to change the fuel pump instead of dropping the tank but that seemed to work out ok. Side note....I got the fuel pump for $75 plus the strainer $7 ( a lot for a pump )

That is cheap for a newer type fuel pump some run up to 500$ us or more.
The seal pops out and can be put in with a driver.
But Pinions bearings need the preload set.
Most of them will have a crush sleve in there.
Get some good repair info on it or here is a link that may help.
http://www.differentials.com/install.html
MT
Let us know how it goes.

I was told that unless you have done this before or have a very good knowledge of how to do it you need to be verrry careful, over torquing the pinion will cause excessive wear on the bearings and basically make you lose your rear end.

I was told that unless you have done this before or have a very good knowledge of how to do it you need to be verrry careful, over torquing the pinion will cause excessive wear on the bearings and basically make you lose your rear end.


10-4 on that :lol: :rofl: :grinyes:
That is why I posted the link on how to set it.
check this link for torque specs and how to.
http://www.differentials.com/install.html
MT

Funny thing...while getting supplies I knew I needed a 1 1/4" socket for the pinion nut, all they had was a 3/4" drive...socket $6 half to three quarter adapter $25, the adapter was a Blackhawk though. Went to another parts store and found a half inch drive.
After pulling the rear cover I was relieved to see nothing on the magnet but the fluid was a little low and awfully thin. That pinion nut was a bear to come off, (liquid wrench+18" breaker bar+leg=nut off) A bucket-o-fun in a gravel driveway. BTW I did mark the origional setting first with a paint marker.
Seal out of the way bearing looked fine pinion shaft doesn't move. I was told there was a crush sleeve in there but I found nothing but the bearing which looked fine and the shaft didn't wiggle.
Another funny (not ha-ha but Steve Buscemi funny) thing, when I pulled the yoke off the grease on the splines smelled like rubbing alcohol???
I used roughly 2 1/2 qts of 140/85 to fill it up, the book doesn't give you a capacity for the rear diff. Another thing you would think they would put to fill hole on the other side with the tailpipe being there.
The vibration isn't as bad as before but with that many miles and the work and money involved I'll live with it.

Funny thing...while getting supplies I knew I needed a 1 1/4" socket for the pinion nut, all they had was a 3/4" drive...socket $6 half to three quarter adapter $25, the adapter was a Blackhawk though. Went to another parts store and found a half inch drive.
After pulling the rear cover I was relieved to see nothing on the magnet but the fluid was a little low and awfully thin. That pinion nut was a bear to come off, (liquid wrench+18" breaker bar+leg=nut off) A bucket-o-fun in a gravel driveway. BTW I did mark the origional setting first with a paint marker.
Seal out of the way bearing looked fine pinion shaft doesn't move. I was told there was a crush sleeve in there but I found nothing but the bearing which looked fine and the shaft didn't wiggle.
Another funny (not ha-ha but Steve Buscemi funny) thing, when I pulled the yoke off the grease on the splines smelled like rubbing alcohol???
I used roughly 2 1/2 qts of 140/85 to fill it up, the book doesn't give you a capacity for the rear diff. Another thing you would think they would put to fill hole on the other side with the tailpipe being there.
The vibration isn't as bad as before but with that many miles and the work and money involved I'll live with it.

You need to be sure you set the preload or your rear end willl not last long.
Go to the site I posted and it tellls how to do that.
MT

I had the same problem with a vibration, didn't know what it was until a few days later, then bang, I was missing a few ring and pinion teeth. I ended up getting really lucky and pulling a used one from the junkyard that had been recently rebuilt for $20.
You might want to get that fixed or your going to get stuck somewhere and it will probably cost more.