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Changing the front brake pads?


dejean415
05-16-2006, 04:14 PM
anyone have any experience changing the front brake pads? any help is appreciated!

dejean415
05-17-2006, 02:52 PM
anyone have any experience changing the front brake pads? any help is appreciated!

Help!

das2123
05-18-2006, 07:59 AM
What kind of help do you need? You need to jack up the car, put it on stands, take the wheels off, take caliper bolts off, take off caliper, take off old pads, push piston back in with a C-clamp and wooden block, install new pads, put caliper back on, put caliper bolts back in. Pump the brake to get the piston seated again and on your way.

TheStang00
05-21-2006, 01:22 PM
What kind of help do you need? You need to jack up the car, put it on stands, take the wheels off, take caliper bolts off, take off caliper, take off old pads, push piston back in with a C-clamp and wooden block, install new pads, put caliper back on, put caliper bolts back in. Pump the brake to get the piston seated again and on your way.

werd, you could probably just use the c-clamp one the brake pad though couldnt you?

wafrederick
05-21-2006, 02:48 PM
Get the rotors turned too.The new brake pads need a new surface to stop better.

das2123
05-21-2006, 10:39 PM
werd, you could probably just use the c-clamp one the brake pad though couldnt you?Yeah, I guess...never done it that way though!
Get the rotors turned too.The new brake pads need a new surface to stop better.Not necessary, but a good idea if the surface isn't smooth.

94StealthTT
05-28-2006, 05:22 PM
If your car has ABS and the brake fluid is contaminated it is a bad idea to just push back the caliper pistons. What can happen is that dirty fluid can get pushed back into the ABS module plug it up and damage it, then you have to replace the whole module which is very costly. You are better off cracking open the bleed screw, with a hose attached to it and a small jar of fluid, then pushing the fluid out. Once you get the piston pushed back in all the way tighten the bleeder screw down again. Make sure to use a good penetrating oil if the screws are rusted and a six sided socket to break it free first. Make sure to put the pads on in the correct order, just match the new pads up with the old pads when you remove them. Use a pad squeak lube on the back to eliminate any squeaking also lube up the caliper slide bolts good with some new brake lube. Clean any grease from the rotors with brake cleaner before reassembly. Turning the rotors is only neccessary if: Check the rotors for discoloring, any dark blue color indicates over heating and most likely warping. Also check for cracks and scoring on the rotors. These would also need to be replaced. If you have a dial indicator look hook that up and check for disc runout if it is over the max limit specified they cant be machined and should be replaced. The smoother the rotors the better, dont rough them up to seat the pads. It is a good idea to get torque specs to do the job right. When you are done check the fluid pump the pedal to seat the pads then add more fluid if needed. Drive the car doing light stops and work your way up to more pressure moderate to heavy stops to seat the new pads being careful not to overheat the brakes. Good Luck with everything, you will save a lot of money doing it yourself.

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