Has anyone replaced the rear main seal on a 3.2L engine? Does the oil pan have to be removed? Can the oil seal be removed without removing the retaining plate?

Do you have any information that would save time or make the job easier?

Thank you in advance for any help you can give.

Has anyone attempted this repair(replacing rear main seal)?

Honestly, it's not a common issue on these engines. In fact, I've only ever heard of one that needed replaced, don't know if he ever did it though.

How bad's it leaking? How many miles on your rig?

As a temp. fix you could also try a slightly thicker oil, i.e. high mileage 10w-30 regular oil, not synthetic. I've heard that Valvoline Maxlife, Havoline high mileage and Castrol high mileage oils are all good for older seals.

Thank you for your reply.

There is 122K miles on my Rodeo. Recently I found the PCV valve to be clogged, and I think that caused excessive pressure that may have caused the seal to go.

If I am driving for about an hour it has oil dripping, so it is past the point of just seepage. So, that is why I think it is a job that I'll have to tackle. Well anyway with 122K it would be good to replace the clutch while I am in there.

Something else you can try, but I don't recommend this if you're not an avid oil level checker or if your truck burns oil, is try leaving the oil sump 1/2 qt low, worked on my Toyota, for a short time - but enough of what I needed it too.

But wouldn't you know it, this truck, my Toyota 22RE seems to not like headgaskets or rear main seals, my rear-main is leaking on it again. Just replaced it 2yrs ago.

This past month, I threw in 15w-40 for the summer, the leak turned into a weep for now, I'm not wanting to throw another seal at it. It is 20yrs old.

Pretty sure it's a cartridge style RMS where the retainer has to come out. Call Merlin @ www.stcharlesauto.com and ask him. I don't think it's too bad a job. The worst would be dropping the exhaust and trans.

Joel