the spider assembly is simple and easy, your best off just purchasing a new one, and it only goes in one way and the lines are pretty much orinated to go to the correct cyclinder. they just push in and thats it. I wouldnt even mess with the old one your just going to be chasing issues, this way you know its going to work 100%.

This is being done on my 98 Blazer LT 4x4

After realizing that the dealer wanted to charge me 3-4 hours labor ($89/hr) JUST to remove the upper intake.....not including any work within, I decided it was a definite DIYS!
After removing it once....it takes no more than 15-20minutes at most.

The most important thing to remember is you need to immediately block your intake ports firmly with shop rags. If not, you may learn the hard way...as I did....that you can easily lose a part or tool inside and find yourself removing the lower intake as well....with much aggrevation, and time wasted.
I can't say it enough! It takes 5 seconds to be safe.

As soon as you remove the upper intake cover:
BLOCK YOUR INTAKE PORTS IMMEDIATELY BEFORE ANYTHING ELSE!

Disconnect your battery, and relieve the fuel pressure from the system at the fuel rail (either with a vent on a fuel pressure gauge, or pressing in the valve pin holding a shop rag over it to catch any excess)

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/fuelspider/1.jpg
Remove your air intake as a whole. (4 screws on filter, and twist screw on top of throttle body)

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/fuelspider/2.jpg
Disconnect the fuel supply and return lines at the firewall (16mm)

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/fuelspider/3.jpg
Remove the 12mm bolt securing the lines to the bracket.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/fuelspider/4.jpg
Remove the two 8mm nuts securing the fuel lines to the fuel meter body. (This is what I dropped into the intake, and they're NOT magnetic!)

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/fuelspider/5.jpg
Remove the four 10mm bolts securing the throttle cable brackets.
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/fuelspider/6.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/fuelspider/7.jpg

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/fuelspider/8.jpg
Remove the throttle cable and cruise control cable. The cruise cable will pop off backwards, but you'll need to relieve the tension and take the throttle cable bullet off to disconnect it.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/fuelspider/9.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/fuelspider/10.jpg
Disconnect all electrical connections (including the main fuel spider connection), and using a DEEPWELL 10mm socket, remove all 10 bolts securing the upper intake cover. Gently guide the fuel meter body back out of the cover, and remove the cover.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/fuelspider/11.jpg
You now have access to the fuel spider. Using a flat screwdriver, gently pry the tabs of the fuel meter from the bracket securing it. Pinch the injector tabs and remove the poppets from their holes.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/fuelspider/12.jpg
Inspect the fuel spider thoroughly for leaks. If it appears as though the injectors are leaking from underneath the fuel meter body, you can remove them individually.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/fuelspider/14.jpg
Remove the two 8mm bolts securing the metal bracket underneath the fuel meter body and set aside.
Using a small screwdriver and needle nose pliers, gently pry the plastic cap from the fuel meter body that secures the injector. Again VERY GENTLY, taking care not to damage the plastic injector line, pull the injector from the body using the the needlenose pliers. You may need to use a small dull screwdriver from the inside to help push the injector out.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/fuelspider/15.jpg
With the injector free, you can inspect the two orings on each.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/fuelspider/16.jpg
Here you see the Oring kit for the fuel spider which includes all o-rings on the spider, as well as the metal bracket and nuts that brace the injectors into the body. This seal kit is: GM # 17113205
Remove the Plastic retaining caps, and Orings. Be sure to use a slight coat of Oring grease when reinstalling them. Replace all Orings on the fuel meter body in the same manner. Now would be the time to replace the regulator if necessary. It's approx. $90 from GM.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/fuelspider/17.jpg
Before reinstalling the spider, carefully inspect the two Orings on the fuel supply and return lines...replace if needed. You may also choose to replace the upper intake cover gasket at this time. It comes in a set with the Upper Intake Gasket, Throttle Body Gasket, and Fuel Meter Body Oring (seen in orange). This Gasket kit runs around $30, and is GM#17113215.

Installation is reverse of removal.

If you choose to replace the whole assembly, there is an updated fuel spider. Below are the part numbers and PDF GM Bulletin for the changeover. It's supposed to correct the problem of sticking injectors, and is half the price if you believe you may have more than one bad injector. It also includes the regulator, which alone is $90. NOTE: The blocked intake ports, and cleaned intake!

If you choose this route, as I eventually did, you'll need:

Here's the part numbers:
12568332 - MFI Assembly
88894355 - Bracket
17113215 - Seal kit

Here his the GM Bulletin for install (thanks to Blazee!):
http://www.savefile.com/files.php?fid=1709708

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/fuelspider/18.jpg
you are definatly a novice and half idiot you took to many steps to do a simple job whole job takes about 40 minutes if that why the real mechanics get paid the big bucks i guess and your way also leads to brocken vacume lines both hard and soft want to mention how much those cost

you are definatly a novice and half idiot you took to many steps to do a simple job whole job takes about 40 minutes if that why the real mechanics get paid the big bucks i guess and your way also leads to brocken vacume lines both hard and soft want to mention how much those cost
and second thought you didnt mention the fuel pressure regulator valve on it in most cases with spider injectors it can cause problems hard starts or no starts no resistence for the fuel to build up pressuere3 and an oring kit are you stupid spend the extra cash get the new and improved style were some one fixed gm's screw up or be right back to point one before you know it stupid shade tree mechanics trying to fill real mens shoes

PLEASE HELP!!!! I have read the GM Bullitin that has been posted repeatedly throughout this forum. There have only been vague references to the NEW STYLE spider assembly installation. I have one in hand, and desperately want to install it, but it did not come with instructions to tell me where each line goes. The new style is somewhat different from the old one. I really need this answer. I keep getting the runaround from the people at GM and AUS Injectors. please do not respond with "just put the new one in the same way the old one was connected". I would not be asking for help if the old one was connected properly in the first place. I need some specific direction here....thanks in advance.

by the way, I have a 95 jimmy v6 vortec. The injector i am installing is an AUS CP10721

should there be a vacuume line at the fuel pressure regulator if so where do i attach it

I put together a video of the fuel spider replacement procedure here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nJlnO5loGuI

Hope it helps!