toyota camry
espinozaj
04-28-2006, 02:24 PM
I am trying to remove cv axle plug in type shaft on drivers side. Shaft end in transmission is stuck. The rest of the axle came off by it self, from rotor in transmission. Any help!!!!
RIP
04-28-2006, 02:57 PM
What year? Engine?
espinozaj
04-28-2006, 03:04 PM
1991 d x2.0
4 cylinder
4 cylinder
Daniel M. Dreifus
04-29-2006, 11:27 AM
If I understand correctly what you're asking, you're trying to remove the driver side axle from the differential having already released the outboard end.
Here's how I did this just a couple of weeks ago.
First of all, the instructions in the factory service manual show prying the axle out with the flat end of the lug wrench. This did not work. Next I tried a larger pry bar, and it didn't work either.
You need to get a pry bar that is at least two feet long. I found a really great "pinch bar" at NAPA for around $30. I think it was 5/8" x 18" with a flat pry surface on one end, and tapered on the other end. Then I got a piece of galvanized pipe at Home Base to use as a "cheater bar" extension. I think the pipe was 3/4" x 18". I had first tried some pry bars from Harbor Freight and they didn't work either - too much flex, but the NAPA pry bar was solid, clearly a much higher quality tool - and I've found other uses for it since - like adjusting belts on my Toyota truck, and pressing in spring clips on the Camry brake flex lines that last sixteenth of an inch.
If you have the replacement axle, you'll notice there is a "C" clip very close to the end and that's what holds the axle in. When you install the new axle, the opening in the C clip should be facing down, and that's how you want the clip to be for removing the old axle. The trick is that you can't see it.
So, . . . without mangling the old C clip by using excessive force, just turn the axle one third turn and try prying. Next grab the axle and push it in. It should move slightly with hand pressure. Then turn the axle another third turn, and try prying again. And so on. What you're trying to do, is to get that clip on the end of the axle to drop down into its groove, so it will release.
About the second or third try, mine just came right out like there had never been anything holding it in.
For installation, the book shows using a hammer and a brass drift punch. That didn't work for me either.
Just get the splines of the new axle end properly positioned - there's not much length to work with, but get them correctly aligned, then just push in on the entire axle, using its own mass like a slide hammer, and the new axle should pop right into place.
There should be slight axial movement when correctly installed, just like the old axle, but it should not pull out.
Here's how I did this just a couple of weeks ago.
First of all, the instructions in the factory service manual show prying the axle out with the flat end of the lug wrench. This did not work. Next I tried a larger pry bar, and it didn't work either.
You need to get a pry bar that is at least two feet long. I found a really great "pinch bar" at NAPA for around $30. I think it was 5/8" x 18" with a flat pry surface on one end, and tapered on the other end. Then I got a piece of galvanized pipe at Home Base to use as a "cheater bar" extension. I think the pipe was 3/4" x 18". I had first tried some pry bars from Harbor Freight and they didn't work either - too much flex, but the NAPA pry bar was solid, clearly a much higher quality tool - and I've found other uses for it since - like adjusting belts on my Toyota truck, and pressing in spring clips on the Camry brake flex lines that last sixteenth of an inch.
If you have the replacement axle, you'll notice there is a "C" clip very close to the end and that's what holds the axle in. When you install the new axle, the opening in the C clip should be facing down, and that's how you want the clip to be for removing the old axle. The trick is that you can't see it.
So, . . . without mangling the old C clip by using excessive force, just turn the axle one third turn and try prying. Next grab the axle and push it in. It should move slightly with hand pressure. Then turn the axle another third turn, and try prying again. And so on. What you're trying to do, is to get that clip on the end of the axle to drop down into its groove, so it will release.
About the second or third try, mine just came right out like there had never been anything holding it in.
For installation, the book shows using a hammer and a brass drift punch. That didn't work for me either.
Just get the splines of the new axle end properly positioned - there's not much length to work with, but get them correctly aligned, then just push in on the entire axle, using its own mass like a slide hammer, and the new axle should pop right into place.
There should be slight axial movement when correctly installed, just like the old axle, but it should not pull out.
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