1993 Gmc Jimmy 4.3L Vtech...last stand?

Well im at my last straw I believe..Blue smoke is comming out now and im getting ruff idle and it hesitates. I checked the spark plugs and on the drivers side the one closest to the fan (dont have firing order handy) it was black, (didnt check the other 2 because they are a pita to get off and back on) which means that oil is getting past the piston rings. I recently gave it a tuneup(spark plugs,wires,cap and rotor,coil), new dist and breaks, tune up, but I dont know how much money to put in this thing to be worth it..I only paid $900 for it and have been told that I need to do a compression check to see if its the piston rings or I need new heads??? Price quote of $5-600 or get a new engine. And I know of some other things this will need as well that are minor compared to this of course. How long can u drive it like this, it seems to be running rich as well and im sure the gas mileage is down the toilet. Any help or suggestions or should I make my decision after the compression check? What makes me mad is that the engine still has alot of power for 166k, and the 4wd works on it even though its push button. Help me make a decision guys, I like the looks of these jimmy/blazers and hate to get rid of it but dont want something to sit and take up space. Thanks

Rip that P.O.S. engine and tranny out and drop a small block in it :grinyes:

Thats what David Hasslehoff would do!

The oil is more likely leaking past the valve stem seals. These can be changed in the truck. Total parts cost $30.00.
Need special vale spring compressor from LISLE. $40.
Need hose from a compression tester to put air in cylinder to hold valve up.

Cool I'll try that. Will let you know how it works out...

Ok update time.

Took Jimmy to repair shop. Here is what I found.....

On pass side #'s 2 4 were 160psi, 6 was 165psi
On drivers side #'s 1 was 165psi and 3 and 5 were 160psi

So good compression......but......

They did find that alot of fuel was puddling in the intake, after further investigation found that the fuel pressure regulator is bad.

So.....how much.....how hard........anything else I should change????

Ok update time again....

Got a new fuel pressure regulator, since that was the problem as I was told.....

Installed new FPR and turned key to on with intake off....heard a gushing,gurgling kinda sound...checked and the FPR was not leaky but it was leaking from the fuel inlet steel hose into the intake......

The question I have is...are the 2 steel lines comming in considered the nut kit???? What exactly is the nut kit??? I would like to get this thing back running ASAP. Thanks.

Assuming it is leaking inside the plenum, the nut kit is the hose assy that connects to your metal fuel lines to the injector assy, called a spider. Two pcs of hose. The entire injector assy consisting of regulator and injector spider should have been replaced along with the nut kit, which is inside your plenum, and is plastic, sorry to say. Can and do LEAK. A lot of people simply replace the regulator as it is cheap compared to the injector assy which is 250-400 bucks depending on where you got it and the nut kit runs 50-60 as a rule. Can buy both on EBAY for around 300 bucks, actual GM parts. Since the plenum is a pain to take off, best to get it done totally. Now, if this is the problem, you may have to replace the entire thing as the regulator comes with the spider assy already. And or course, labor. Or just the nut kit if you want to chance it. It is a dealer only item unless you buy on Ebay. Maybe though they just did not tighten properly. Try to tighten them up and see if that helps.

here is a pic
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OEM-4-3W-Injector-Nut-Kit-fuel-feed-return-pipes_W0QQitemZ8059836662QQcategoryZ33553QQrdZ1QQc mdZViewItem

Thanks for the info. Yea after some searchin found what the nut kit was. And I agree that the plenum is a pita to take off....hopefully I get it back on lol. I did not notice any washing on either side indicating a bad fuel press. reg or assembly, but just noticed a little washing on the supply metal/plastic line. Im sure some people would just replace the whole thing, but I bought the stupid FPR for 40.00 and I know that nut kit costs bout $40-50...but since my engine has 161k on it and im sure this has never been replaced....I just might replace the whole dang thing or keep messin with it in the future. Guess im going to have to think about it....Im lucky that my motor seems to have alot of power left in it and the majority of the things work on it lol. Ill let you know what I decide to do.

Assuming it is leaking inside the plenum, the nut kit is the hose assy that connects to your metal fuel lines to the injector assy, called a spider. Two pcs of hose. The entire injector assy consisting of regulator and injector spider should have been replaced along with the nut kit, which is inside your plenum, and is plastic, sorry to say. Can and do LEAK. A lot of people simply replace the regulator as it is cheap compared to the injector assy which is 250-400 bucks depending on where you got it and the nut kit runs 50-60 as a rule. Can buy both on EBAY for around 300 bucks, actual GM parts. Since the plenum is a pain to take off, best to get it done totally. Now, if this is the problem, you may have to replace the entire thing as the regulator comes with the spider assy already. And or course, labor. Or just the nut kit if you want to chance it. It is a dealer only item unless you buy on Ebay. Maybe though they just did not tighten properly. Try to tighten them up and see if that helps.

here is a pic
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OEM-4-3W-Injector-Nut-Kit-fuel-feed-return-pipes_W0QQitemZ8059836662QQcategoryZ33553QQrdZ1QQc mdZViewItem

Now when u mean tighten, do u mean the inlet of the nut kit on the supply??? I guess I can try that, but I think its the plastic hose going to spyder assembly that is leaky(where the metal ends and comes into the intake).