Front Wheel Bearing 98' SLT

I am almost positive that my front wheel bearing is bad. I have replaced wheel bearings before, some where real easy and others I needed help.
If anyone has replaced it: How hard is it?
Thanks all.

I had a 2000 Jimmy and had to replace the left one ... its not really " hard " to do .. just a royal pain in the butt ! :frown: .... Mine was not just bearings .. you have to replace the whole assembly ( bearings , hub ) as its all a sealed unit ... Your vehilce might be different however ............. I didn't own the hub nut socket so I went to a mechniac at a gas station and he loosened the big nut for me... I went home and changed the assembly and then drove back and he retightened it for me .... didn't charge me for that 30 second proceedure but I made it right with him...


EDIT ... to know what one to replace.... when you drive and hear the loud hum or abnormal noise if you turn to left and noise dissapears .. its the right one gone bad... and visa versa

Some of the automotive chain stores will lend you the 36mm socket for the hub nut. I'm pretty sure I have a bad one too; I think there's a pretty good how-to over in the blazer forum

Some of the automotive chain stores will lend you the 36mm socket for the hub nut. I'm pretty sure I have a bad one too; I think there's a pretty good how-to over in the blazer forum

I didn't see the how to, anyone know? I have 4wd and mine is toast (squeeling like mad when driven). Are the super expensive? It's been my experience that ALL the parts for these trucks are 4x the price you expect :(

picked up a 36 mm 1/2" deep socket @ canadian tire for $12
the torque wrench to torque it to 180 fp was over $100 tho :|

picked up a 36 mm 1/2" deep socket @ canadian tire for $12
the torque wrench to torque it to 180 fp was over $100 tho :|

Was yours a late 90's (mines a 98) 4wd model that you had to replace? I'm curious what kind of puller I need to seperate the axle shaft from the hub itself. I've changed ujoints and axle shafts in my jeep before, hell I've pulled the carrier and installed a full carrier locker, I would assume this bearing\hub should be no more work that that?

EDIT: Just to drop this out there, I'm almost positive it's the wheel bearing in the front drivers side. It's louder on that side (wind up drivers window and wind down passengers side and it's quieter, reverse that and it's louder). It happens when turning all corners, although it's loudest when turning right. When going in a straight line it's just nonstop metal on metal sounding, turning corners of course is a horrifying sound that people down the street stare at me for, and the noise is not lessened when I use my brakes (eliminating them as the cause) and it stops when I come to a stop.

EDIT2: I found the section in my Hayes manual on how to yank the 4wd hub\bearing assy and it's not looking terrible to do (although I'm sure the hub will be seized to the shaft and I'll need a 2 jawed puller). It did NOT list the torque specs for the hub nut. I know lot's of you think 180ft lbs automatically, but I know that value is for 2wd models and NON sealed bearing assy's. Anyonw know -for sure- the torque value for a 4wd sealed assembly?

Just checked my Haynes repair manual and it says " Hub And Bearing assembly Bolts = 77 ft-lbs " ......When I did mine I of course bolted the bolts back to 77 ft lbs as it said to do .. but the mechinac who took off and replaced the big hub nut said that 77 was kinda low but really all that does is pull the axel splines into the hub and allignes the front suspension so as not to give any play or wear .... the hub assembly is actually bolted to it own frame .... over tightening shouldn't have any adverse effect but I don't know for sure ...... yes.. you gonna need a puller ... I borrowed one from my neighbor who had a heavy duty one , which it took plus alot smacks with a hammer too :rolleyes:

Was yours a late 90's (mines a 98) 4wd model that you had to replace? I'm curious what kind of puller I need to seperate the axle shaft from the hub itself. I've changed ujoints and axle shafts in my jeep before, hell I've pulled the carrier and installed a full carrier locker, I would assume this bearing\hub should be no more work that that?

EDIT: Just to drop this out there, I'm almost positive it's the wheel bearing in the front drivers side. It's louder on that side (wind up drivers window and wind down passengers side and it's quieter, reverse that and it's louder). It happens when turning all corners, although it's loudest when turning right. When going in a straight line it's just nonstop metal on metal sounding, turning corners of course is a horrifying sound that people down the street stare at me for, and the noise is not lessened when I use my brakes (eliminating them as the cause) and it stops when I come to a stop.

EDIT2: I found the section in my Hayes manual on how to yank the 4wd hub\bearing assy and it's not looking terrible to do (although I'm sure the hub will be seized to the shaft and I'll need a 2 jawed puller). It did NOT list the torque specs for the hub nut. I know lot's of you think 180ft lbs automatically, but I know that value is for 2wd models and NON sealed bearing assy's. Anyonw know -for sure- the torque value for a 4wd sealed assembly?


mine is a 93 4x4 i had to seperate upper and lower balljoints and the tierod end.
i backed the hub nut off to the end of the threads and jus hit it with a hammer once and it poped out


straight from my chiltons manual ... for 4x4 and it is a sealed bearing assembly
" Tighten the hub nut on the end of the axle to 180 ft. lbs (245 Nm) then install the retainer and a new cotter pin DO NOT back off or exceed specification to install the cotter pin "

that is right outa the chiltons 1983 - 1993 Blazer/ Jimmy/ Typhoon/ Bravada Repair manual .. your year may be diferent

hope i have been of some help

Thanks for the replies guys, I got all the parts (310$ Canadian for the hub\bearing assy!!) and went to take it apart. Well I jacked up the front end and turned it and sure nuff there was a noise, I pulled the wheel and turned it again just to make 100% sure it was the bearing and the noise was coming from the TOP of the rotor??? I looked inside the caliper bracket between the pads and the little metal clip that spans the top of the rotor had been hit by a rock and had bent down into the rotors edge making the metal on metal grinding\squeeling noise while driving. It was NOT in an area the brakes would pinch so it was un-affected by the braking action. I took some needle nose and bent the clip back up and sure as hell it drives smooth and quiet again. Go figure lol, at least I can return these parts ;)