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280zx rebuild


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stprasinz
04-02-2006, 09:57 PM
Ok let me see if i cant cue you all time forum junkies in to who I am. First off I am the run on king, who also has the worst puncuation ever. Ive even been known to give people head aches from my poor grammar. But im gonna try alot harder and see if I can do a little batter at that now.

First of all you may know my whip it was a 1984 300zx turbo 50th anniversery.
The list of mods was ranging from a maxima motor (thats right I was the one who swapped multiple fwd motors into my 300), to a 3" straight through exhaust, 3" stainless steel mesh air filter, ported and polished head, upped boost to approx 12 psi, so on and so forth.

But now for the new whip. I have a 1979 280zx 2+2 that I'm swapping in a 1983 280zx turbo motor
its been rebuilt (bored a full mm over)
balanced
t4 60-1 turbo
stage 2 cam from msa
ported & polished head with 3 angle valve job(valves set flush with the cumbustion chamber ceiling)
3" stainless steel exhaust
giant 24"x12"x3" intercooler
60mm throttle bodie
drilled and slotted rotors
nissan repco brake pads
earls stainless steel brake hoses
1983 turbo sway bars
kyb gr2 struts and shocks(may upgrade when i get lowering springs)
msa polyurethane sway bar bushings, adjustable controll arm bushings, tension compression bushings(torsion arms), and polyurethane rear controll arm bushings
nissan motorsports oil pump
1983 5 speed transsmission
new radiator
blow off valve(hks ssqv)
330cc injectors
stainless steel engine fasteners kit
turbosmart wastegate
all new coolant hosses (110$)
new nissan h2o pump
roller pilot bushing
new o2 sensor
fuel pump block off plate(blocks off mechanicle fuel pump hole where the pwr steering pump used to cover)
titanium oil filler cap
1983 rack and pinion and the engine craddle for it to bolt to



Well that is it in my boxes of stuff to bolt on that I currently have.
What ui will be getting prior tio it running the streets are as folows (but not limited to)
inner outer tie rods, ball joint, wheel bearings, upper strut mount bearings, battery trunk mount kit, walbro fuel pump, alluminum fly wheel, centerforce dual friction clutch kit, center force release bearing, 2 16" electric fans, fuel lines and brake lines, fuel cell. Im sure theres alot more that will be added before its said and done.

Also the things Ive done to it so far are i cleaned the engine bay spotless and painted it gloss black with 500 degree engine paint (gloss black) I painted my engine block chrysler corp blue(which is as close to the origanal color as i could get) and accented it with black, im thinking of painting the strut rods and controll arms blue to contrast the all black bay, ive also began ruberized under coating the wheel wels (the fronts are done and the underside has been cleaned) i have alkso done my tin can interior but i ruberize undercoatinged the floor to give it a slighly more appealing look (after removing all the old tar like rubber coating slabs, and Ive also purchased a new seat cusion assembly for the rear , and will be using my plastic bucket seats from my 300 for the front.

Also just as a note im currently over 4,500 in parts and materials and as i just stated i have alot more to go.
well thats enough to make even my head spin from writng it so i guess until next time

ExTrEmEDrIfT
04-02-2006, 11:25 PM
well thats some list you have sounds like your pretty much getting everything done at once which is good ..

as far as painting the tie rods and such i wouldnt go that route ide leave em lookin the way they do..

good luck on all that and get some pictures of this " whip " of yours so we can see what it all looks like installed ..

DeleriousZ
04-03-2006, 02:06 AM
don't call them whips.... they're cars... or ride maybe... whip is for rappers and people with way too much money and have bad obsessions with excessively large rims...

stprasinz
04-03-2006, 07:11 AM
Ok, I may have worded that a little improperly. What i meant was the tension rods and the lower control arms. I cant decide if I want to clash and go blue or if I want to go black and just match.

ExTrEmEDrIfT
04-03-2006, 11:38 PM
don't call them whips.... they're cars... or ride maybe... whip is for rappers and people with way too much money and have bad obsessions with excessively large rims...


i was hopin my --->> " <<--- emphasized that using the word whips on here is just downright lame

stprasinz
04-04-2006, 12:08 PM
Ok, Ill call it a "Street Rippin Drift Mobile" is that better, just rippin.
Anyway I just ordered my 2 16" fans (one push one pull) to cool my "SRDM", and the walboro electric inline fuel pump. Does anybody know the bolt pattern of these rims? Im told there the same as the old 4 lug mustangs... anyone know if that true??? If so im gonna get some 10" rims (15x10) so i can mount some wide tires on the back. I had major traction problems when i ran my 300 at the drags and could have ran a way better time with better tires.
I had a set of FUZIONZRI's on it (225 50 16). Lose so much traction i didnt hook till the bottom of 3rd doggin it through the gears. Actually i ran it hard one time in second and when i grabbed 3rd it spun a bit and i was facing the opponent in the right lane , talk about getting a little hairry.

anyway anyone know what bolt pattern they are (perhaps the mustang theory also truye or false)????

stprasinz
04-05-2006, 09:04 PM
Ok I fogot a few things, such as the chamber mods that have been performed on the head. TWhe area around the valve was removed to help unshroud the valve to allow for better flow during the low lift of the cam resulting in better performance. Also my crank was polished and when that was done it was also balanced. While i was going paint crazy I also painted the sway bar. And on the note of the notourious cracked dash im gonna remove the top layer of cracked crap and scrape some iof the foam and then, I will fiberglass over it and paint it. It should look better than you think.

I still need to figure out what im gonna do to the ignition. Ive got a shit load of shit done and the last thing i want to do is lose performanc emuch less have detonation occur.

Ohh i think i also failed to mention im gonna be using unleaded race fuel (the blue stuff)
Alos hopefully I'm able to get some nitrous come the middle of this summer, not to mention the fact that i need a good boost controller because I know that 8 psi will only cut it for about the time its broken in then I race a pretty honda and only beat him by like 5 or 6 cars you know.... lol gotta love the competion... Ok enough shit talkin... Im goin to see how much money i can pull im gonna try and see if i can get a bigger compressor and smaller exhaust....

stprasinz
04-08-2006, 03:42 PM
Ok well I got my cam tower shims yesterday, and the cam came in today so I'll be installing that into the head today and setting the lash (or as the case maybe check to see how much i need taken off the valve tips). Well i guess thats all for now and till next time..... good luck on all your journeys

stprasinz
04-10-2006, 08:00 AM
Ok to start the valves with the stock cam were cracked open. Now, I have an aftermarket schneider stage 2 race only cam and there is aproxximitly .015 of lash that i have to recover from the valvetrain (actually approx. .007 so the lash is proper). So now I gotta test every valve and individually mark them and see if they are all the same (if so ill be able to have the topof the head milled and ill be good to go). Or the other option is get a different head witht the solid adjustable pivot balls and go from there. but then i gotta spend a bit of uneeded dough to get the head up to snuff.... But knowing me ill just carve this head up and go from there (or i could always buy those stainless steel valves and have those sized for the job) hmmmmm I guess we'll have to wait and see. Also, I just ordered the stainless steel brake hoses for my "SRDM" (lol). My buddy just picked up a 2000 acura he thinks ioty would have beaten my 300 and will keep up with my 280. I rode in it maybe 240 hp and weighs probably 26 to 2700 lbs (ruff guess) its got an exhaust stainless headers and a apex vtec controllwer and some other mods. my 300 would make it look stupid my camaro kept up lol slug lol he went from 60 to 115 in the same distance my 300 went from 30 to 140 dum ass thought he could beat it lol. he bought it fro 8500 the way it sits........



also i forgot i ran a 9.189 with a .7?? rt and on that run i blew my clutch disc up on the launch if that tells ytou anything

well gotta go

stprasinz
04-10-2006, 12:02 PM
oh by the way thats 1/8 not quarter
it wasnt that fast lol

i now have all my wheel wells undercoated and all the suspention removed
currentl;y im ready to replace the engine cradle and controll arms (with the adj camber bushings) and still need the spring landings for the front end then the front will be ready (minus the bearings and ball joints and inner and outer tie rods lol) and the rear i need only the bearings and the bushings removed and the poly ones installed
other than that im pretty well ready for reassembly
minus the head........
once i get all that stuff done the rest will breeze.

stephenp
04-10-2006, 12:17 PM
So did anybody doubt that it was me....lol...... I'm gonna try and use proper grammar from now on also.So hopefully I do better this time around ayy...

kenh1965
04-15-2006, 11:43 PM
Ok my son is checking his airflow meter and needs to know the specs. It's the weekend so can't just make a phone call. It's a 1983 280zx w/ NO turbo. Any idea would help. Thank You

stephenp
05-03-2006, 07:39 AM
not sure what wires to test but attach an ohm meter to the + feed and the signal return wire and test the voltage between the 2 leads by smoothly moving the flap and make sure that it moves up (or down) smothly (on the ohm meter that is)


back to the 280 rebuild. I have ordered more parts, of course. I have ordered the schneider valve springs, stainless steel valves, mangenese bronze valve guides, and some hardware for the suspention .
I have the entire suspention assembled and went to pu tthe brakes on and when I opened the box and much to my suprise they where a second set of rear pads.......
Also I put the rear rotors on the wrong sides (drilled and slotted ) so I'll have to change those over.
I have reassembled the front steering and discoverd the rack has some slop and now am debatting ... new ball joints, tie rods, bearings, and bushings to only suffer from sloppy steering from the dang rack...
Also I think that I have found the rims im gonna get. They are 17x9 black 5 stars.... $440...
And im also changing my mind on as to which clutch I'm gonna use , I decided to go act 4 puck and the hd pressure plate (the lightest set up that will still clamp enough to hold my slightly moded 280 lol) (I want the lightest for thew obvious reasons Im going with the alluminum flywheel so i figue the lighter the rotational mass the better. also if thats not enough I'm gonna get an electric h2o pump so the only thing that will be off my cranck pulley will be the alternator. And if doesnmt get any better i also found out that I got a pully thats slightly smaller than that of the stocxk one and feels considerably lighter.....

and to finish off my recent discoverys I think I'm gonna swap over to the entire 83 wiring (fuses) i was only utilizing the engine and ecu wiring but i think Im gonna convert to the complete assembley.

and if it wasnt enough already Ivwe removed all evidence of it ever having heating or ac lol.........

so till next time
azlso my new grand total is approx 7,000 green ones

stephenp
05-08-2006, 07:48 AM
Well I got the peddles from the turbo (5 speed) bolted in and also all the old wiring is out. I'm almost finished with the dash repair. Also on that note I'm replacing the gauges with the turbo ones also. I'm almost done with my entire parts list. All I really need is the trunk battery mount kit, fuel cell, clutch and flywheel, brake and fuel lines, some rims and tires, paint, miscallanious wiring clips etc, and the engine stuff(oil, coolant, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and a few odds and ends). And other than that before the end of the summer I will have an aftermarket ignition, boost controller, and if its feasible nitrous...... Nitrous doesnt blow motors people like me do...No, I'm gonna play it smart this time. If i do end up getting niotrous its gonna be set up instead of rpm dependent it'll be boost dependent. I'll use it to launch and spool only, after 8 psi is attained it will turn off....

anyway I gotta get to work

stephenp
05-23-2006, 12:42 PM
Ok well I just ordered my fuel cell and lines for the fuel and brake.
I still need the clutch and fly wheel.
But on the note of new toys my stainless valves have finally came in so tommorrow im taking my head in for the new guides and valve job so I can install my head.
Also i welded in the new rear tail light section (center part).
The origanal was rotted so I installed the one out of my 280 I got outback for parts.
And on another note i decided to remove the cap from the metal core of my dash.
I'm going to install it with out the cover.
It actually doesnt look that bad actually I kinda like it myself.
And I did some further weight reduction,lol.
First of all, all of the sound deadaning material is removed( including the tar like stuff on the bottom), and to make it a little lighter i removed all heater core and ac condensor etc., I guess it gives new meaning to gutted.

And on the note of the body. its gonna be the ugliest primer color i can find for the summer, I was gonna do the whole black roof and rockers with a blue center but i decide i would wait till next year.
I decided this because i found a wide body kit, door, roof and trunck lid all in fiberglass for about 1700. So next year I'm gonna buy that and have it painted.


Well as usual I gotta hit the road and get back to work.... So till next time
Same zx time same zx channel

stephenp
05-23-2006, 12:45 PM
Ok well I just ordered my fuel cell and lines for the fuel and brake.
I still need the clutch and fly wheel.
But on the note of new toys my stainless valves have finally came in so tommorrow im taking my head in for the new guides and valve job so I can install my head.
Also i welded in the new rear tail light section (center part).
The origanal was rotted so I installed the one out of my 280 I got outback for parts.
And on another note i decided to remove the cap from the metal core of my dash.
I'm going to install it with out the cover.
It actually doesnt look that bad actually I kinda like it myself.
And I did some further weight reduction,lol.
First of all, all of the sound deadaning material is removed( including the tar like stuff on the bottom), and to make it a little lighter i removed all heater core and ac condensor etc., I guess it gives new meaning to gutted.

And on the note of the body. its gonna be the ugliest primer color i can find for the summer, I was gonna do the whole black roof and rockers with a blue center but i decide i would wait till next year.
I decided this because i found a wide body kit, door, roof and trunck lid all in fiberglass for about 1700. So next year I'm gonna buy that and have it painted.


Well as usual I gotta hit the road and get back to work.... So till next time
Same zx time same zx channel

stephenp
05-23-2006, 12:47 PM
my bad my puter said this and that about invalid site so i copied and pasted my bad

k3smostwanted
05-23-2006, 06:45 PM
wtf mate... start a new thread when you have updates.

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