Hi There, Have A 1980 Z-28 With A 4 Speed, Replaced Clutch, (broken Clutch Fork), Installed New Carb, And Still No Power, Goes Into Gear Well, Shifts Well, No Power, Had This Problem Before Fixing Clutch And Carb, Could It Be The Timing? Please Help, Have Had My Monster Girl For Many Years And Is My Only Car, Thanx, Elizabeth

what do you mean by "no power"? it wont run or it feels sluggish?

SLUGGISH!!! It runs, goes into all 4 gears real smooth, but doesn't want to go over 55mph, and the tack is reading 35, when I stomp it, there is nothing there:banghead: , any ideas at all would be helpful, I usually do the work myself, but might have to take her to a mechanic, waaaaaaaaa

a good tune up should help.......i just changed the spark plugs on my car...and it made a world of difference!...plus they were all fuel fouled

i was running so rich though there was more fuel in my oil then oil...so i was pretty sluggish

full tune-up, plugs, wires, cap, rotor button, coil, etc, any more ideas? please?

besides from a full tune up...timing included... thats all i know..hope it helps

What did the plugs look like when you changed them?

Any backfiring? I assume fuel filter was changed with the carb? How many miles are on the timing chain (any unusual sounds at startup?)

the plugs looked ok when changed, yes some backfiring when trying to get on it, starts at a click of the key now, timing chain was replaced, still think it's the timing but not sure how to set it or what to set it to? She also has some exhaust leaks as well, might have something to do with it but not everything I wouldn't think?

What did the plugs look like when you changed them?

Any backfiring? I assume fuel filter was changed with the carb? How many miles are on the timing chain (any unusual sounds at startup?)

Ok, to set the ignition timing the procedure should be listed on the emissions decal. But in a nutt shell, bring the motor up to normal operating temp. Hook up your timing light, inductive pickup styles are well worth the money. Disable the advance mech, be it electric or vaxcuum. Loosen the hold down clamp bolt at the base of the distributer (specialized wrenches are available for this), just loosen it, don't go crazy.

Now fire the motor back up, make sure your timing light wires are clear of the fan first! The timing indicator tab s/b right below the water pump unually on left (driver's) side of the motor, (it may need some cleaning to be able to decypher. Point the timing light at the tab and pull the trigger, the light should now be strobing in sequence with cylinder 1's firing, and you'll see the scribe line on the crank pulley in refrence to where it (cylinder 1 is) is on the timing tab before or after top dead center of piston travel.

To change timing, merely turn the distributer clockwise or counter clockwise to make the scribe line sit to the specified degree of base timing provided on the emissions decal. NOTE: some engines require the RPMs' to be at a certain level, take notice of that. Should you no longer have the label or it's unreadable, you can also get the procedure and specs form a chiltons or haynes manual.

Anyway, after base timing is set. Tighten up the hold down clamp bolt, again don't go nuts with it, if you do it'll be that much harder to loosen later on down the road. After it's snugged up, check the timing again to make sure you didn't upset it while tightening. If ok, hook back up the adv. mechanism and take for a test drive. Try to note any pinging that would indicate you either read the tab wrong or the bolt isn't thight enoug (rare but it happens).

After a few times you get the hang of it and after a while you get so used to the motors sound and distributer orientation at the right timing you don't even need a light anymore :thumbsup:

THANK YOU for the info on timing, I will try it when I get home, will let you know if it works, Elizabeth Ann

k, so who knows how to check a tachometer?

huh? you mean if it's callibrated correctly?

yes if it's correct or if it's off, not sure what the problem is, but going 55mph the tack reads 35 and can feel the pull on the motor, grrrrrrrrr, other than that, she starts and runs great, lmao:uhoh:

So starting off the line power is normal?

Power remains constant through 1st, shift

constant through 2nd, shift

constant through 3rd, shift

into 4th starts dogging around, but will accleretae but very slowly and laboring the engine?

Hi there, seems to drag thru all the gears, the tach is way high, but can feel it shifting into gears with no problem, then in 4th gear there is no power, the engine is straining, I'm beginning to think that my emergency brake is stuck or something, the so called mechanic that worked on it replaced hardware and pads, but drove her to work today and the emergency brake pedal is down and will not stay up, it was loose before he worked on it and I tied it up, otherwise the brake light would come on, the brake light didn't come on today, the E brake has never worked, can I take it off? Would I have to bleed the brakes if this is done? :banghead:

Alright, that's kinda what I was getting at as to when the problem is noticable. If the brake is dragging that bad, you should smell the shoe lining getting pretty hot (same smell as a burnt clutch). The only other way toconfrim is to pull the brake drums off and look for "blueing" of the drum that would indicate it's been heated up. The shoe surface wuold also look brittle as wel not to mention stink.

As for removing the e-brake, I would not recommed, what I would recommend is getting it fixed :thumbsup:

oh, in the lower gears, you say the tach is reading high rpms, does the motor sound wound up in conjunction with this? You know what i mean, after you get the hang of your shift points you shift by ear, does the engine sound right?

And no, the only you have to bleed the brakes is when you open one of the lines up.

Yes the motor is sounding wound up, then shift, winds again, shift, etc. what do you think it could be? :mad: Besides the winding out with the tach, the motor sounds good, starts click ofthe key, etc.

So you don't smell the brakes or cltuch burning?

Nope, and never did before he "fixed" the back brakes either,

Hmm, curious. Well, all I can say at this point is to jack the back end up and try to to turn the wheels by hand. There should be a very slight drag only. Any thing else would indicate a problem there, but you should smell it or there should be an abundance of "brake dust" on the back of the drums. Don't over look the front end as well. Are the brakes overly responsive?

It's just a puzzler, no smell. :dunno:

UPDATE!! Got the exhaust fixed yesterday and also a hole in the header, sounds better and will bark in 1st and 2nd gear but still no power, I want my baaaawaaaaaaa back damnit:evillol: , also found the emergency brake cable was stuck, the mechanic unstuck it but still the same problem, could my cam be worn out? It has no power, should be able to kick it and get the sound but doesn't happen, air induction is working though, there is power in shifting the gears although the tach still reads high, but no top end power....

So starting off the line power is normal?

Power remains constant through 1st, shift

constant through 2nd, shift

constant through 3rd, shift

into 4th starts dogging around, but will accleretae but very slowly and laboring the engine?

Those were the last 2 things I was thinking, but really didn't want to randomly throw stuff out there, like restricted exhaust (clogged cat or muffler) or a worn cam

lmao, you're not throwing things out there, just trying to make sure that I'm not crazy yet, anyhow, had a new exhaust put on, from the headers back, but the same mechanic did that, so not sure, have had this car 10+ yrs so I know her well, my only car, so have to get it fixed. (Plus she is not for sale damnit!!) do a compression test to check the cam and etc? Need help here, please, and thanx, Elizabeth Ann ps. has never had the cat converter since I've had it.

Well, if it has power in the lower gears getting going, i would be inclined to say it's not a cam issue.

How did the ignition timing check come out? Condition of spark? (color, blue is good orange is bad)

Kinda just throwing this out there, I'm not even sure if an 80 even has this, but I saw that a new carb was put on and if this car is equipped with a TV cable and it wasn't adjusted with the new carb, could it be causing this problem?

Geno, that would be a great idea, only one problem, this chick has a stick. :lol:

Please don't take offense in the use of the word 'chick' it just flowed. :cheers:

oh, sry, i didn't read anything about the trans being standard or auto.

Geno, that would be a great idea, only one problem, this chick has a stick. :lol:

Please don't take offense in the use of the word 'chick' it just flowed. :cheers:

:evillol: ROFLMLAO, NO OFFENSE TAKEN AND THANX, NEEDED THAT GIGGLE, CHECKED THE BACK DRUMS THEY WEREN'T TURNED LIKE THE MECHANIC SAID, REPLACED OLD DRUMS WITH NEW AND BACK BRAKES FEEL GOOD NOW, WEEEEEEE, she is going to a mechanic on Thursday damnit, grrrrrrrrrr, hope this guy can figure out what is wrong with my baby (how do you post pics of your cars on here?)

seems to drag thru all gears, but you can feel the power wants to go, barks in 1st and 2nd without even trying, lol

Well, now that any physical resistance is pretty much eliminated form the picture, it's got to be a delivery issue, be it spark or fuel. What promted the carb replacement, this problem?

Anyways, the two big culprets from either system that may cause this;

Spark = weak coil

fuel = fuel pump (I would have replaced with the new carb anyways, under $20 cheap insurance, moving part that is guarenteed to fail at some point.)

The picture thing, i don't know, you have to "host" them elsewehre then link to them or something.

Well, now that any physical resistance is pretty much eliminated form the picture, it's got to be a delivery issue, be it spark or fuel. What promted the carb replacement, this problem?

Anyways, the two big culprets from either system that may cause this;

Spark = weak coil

fuel = fuel pump (I would have replaced with the new carb anyways, under $20 cheap insurance, moving part that is guarenteed to fail at some point.)

The picture thing, i don't know, you have to "host" them elsewehre then link to them or something.

question, me and this mechanic worked on it did the plugs, wires and cap, he broke my coil then, so I later got the coil and rotor button, everything there is new, he had all the wires off, what would happen/result in them being wrong now? I replaced the fuel pump a few years ago, should I do it again?

Need the timing light that checks the tach, hence she is going to the damn mechanic thurs, waaaaaaaaaaaaaaa I give up!!

Host? Do what?

You've gotta be kidding, all this time, you nelgected to mention that wires might be crossed :angryfire

That could explain a little. How in hell did he manage to break a coil? Yeah, it's possible that if the wires are crossed, there you go.

I take it the timing set procedure requires the engine be at a certain rpm (1500 or K, something like that)? You can play it be ear, but maybe it's best to have someone do it, and hopefully not the same "mechanic".

So sorry, didn't think that the car would start on a click of the key if the wires weren't correct, but have had this problem before wires were taken off the car, the last time we checked the timing it was really high, but tried to adjust it and the car stalled, will ask the mechanic about this when I drop it off on thurs. He broke the red wire and rigged it, when I replaced it both wires were fried and the rotor button black with buildup.

You've gotta be kidding, all this time, you nelgected to mention that wires might be crossed :angryfire

That could explain a little. How in hell did he manage to break a coil? Yeah, it's possible that if the wires are crossed, there you go.

I take it the timing set procedure requires the engine be at a certain rpm (1500 or K, something like that)? You can play it be ear, but maybe it's best to have someone do it, and hopefully not the same "mechanic".

full tune-up, plugs, wires, cap, rotor button, coil, etc, any more ideas? please?

backing up here, when was thos done? before or after the problem started?

backing up here, when was thos done? before or after the problem started?

The car has been like this for about 8 months, I thought the tune-up would fix the problem, it didn't but it did help, she runs better now than she has in a long time, will find out tomorrow hopefully what it is, watch it be something really simple, :iceslolan Hell no not the same mechanic, although he is calling now telling me to bring her back, only when hell freezes over will that happen, he now knows that he has lost a friend as well as excellent client, should make him give me the money back for the so called brake job!!!

, will find out tomorrow hopefully what it is, watch it be something really simple, :iceslolan

Really sounding that way.

Since he messed up one coil wire it sounds as if he messed up the tach feed off the other side which could explain the 'inaccurate' reading you have.

Not really sure that the tach is not reading correctly, I can feel the pull on the motor and hear it winding out, but you are right it could be lose, will mention to mechanic tomorrow, and tyvm for the help

UPDATE!!!, So far the mechanic has found out that when bad mechanic took out distributor he didn't put it back right and now things are loose under the cap, and a few other small things which this new mechanic says were all done on purpose by someone, grrrrrrrrrrrrr, wish me luck, we're at $200 now:banghead:

Not really sure that the tach is not reading correctly, I can feel the pull on the motor and hear it winding out, but you are right it could be lose, will mention to mechanic tomorrow, and tyvm for the help

Ah hah! Checking the the timing, there ya go :thumbsup:

Yeah the old guy sounds like a real twit. progress is good, but some of this could have been avoided :dunno: O-well, we did find some other issues that needed attention anyway.

It was the distributor itself that needed fixed, and he will set the timing after that is done, I'm praying it is nothing more serious or more money, $200 is enough after what I've already thrown into her, grrrrrrrrr, will keep ya posted and let you know everything the new mechanic finds!!! lol Elizabeth

OK, so the new mechanic has redone, distributor is rebuilt, new weights, bushings, etc, also old mechanic put screws thru the cap and it was messed up, and fixed the other man done things as he put it, the car still won't go over 55 with tach reading 35, even if the tach is slightly off that is still to high + the no power issue....he also found a broken brake booster with the vacuum seal broke, I'm picking up booster and master cylinder today!! How much would this affect the performace in the car? ALSO, There is a metal swish/grounding sound coming from the engine when I let off the gas, what could cause this sound? She also has an overheating issue that has started when the tach started reading higher as well. She has a corvette fan with 4 inch adapter instead of a clutch fan, never had a problem with it, could adapter be warped/worn out? Have no more money for mechanics now, it's just me, TIMING ISSUE, the timing is 22 and supposed to be 8 wtf is up with that?

Not sure what to do next, any ideas would be helpful, lol I love my baby:banghead: and will get her right sooner than later hopefully, Elizabeth Also, the tach has still not been checked and I still wasn't told why the car won't go over 55 without the tach so high, and where is my baa waaaaaaaaa at damnit? Burn the tires in 1, 2 and almost 3 but still rough and no power in 4th? Help!!!

, TIMING ISSUE, the timing is 22 and supposed to be 8 wtf is up with that?

So the base timing is set a 22* instead of 8*?

So the base timing is set a 22* instead of 8*?

Yepper, why would it be so high if it's supposed to be around 8? Could it be where the distributor was not put back in the car correctly? Would that have anything to do with no power in 4th?:uhoh:

That's what I've been saying. The new mechanic would have had to set the timing after pulling the distributer out for the rebuild, what did he set it to?

If he set it back to 22* adv. Then yes, that's the problem, you're not getting proper combustion, and an engine that is too far advanced will also experience overheating problems.

So the base timing is set a 22* instead of 8*?

also found 2 huge vacuum leaks, the grommet that goes in the master cylinder, and the vacuum hose that comes out of the firewall needed replaced, so how could the new mechanic set the timing with these huge leaks? They are fixed now though, any more ideas guys? Have a friend coming over to check the timing and tach, and hopefully he can do a compression test as well, not so sure about my new mechanic:crying:

also found 2 huge vacuum leaks, the grommet that goes in the master cylinder, and the vacuum hose that comes out of the firewall needed replaced, so how could the new mechanic set the timing with these huge leaks? They are fixed now though, any more ideas guys? Have a friend coming over to check the timing and tach, and hopefully he can do a compression test as well, not so sure about my new mechanic:crying:

So, I guess I'm going this alone, will anything bad happen to the engine if I take the timing back to around 8* where it's supposed to be? And what could the funny noise be in the front of the car when I let off the gas? Should I also put the clutchfan back in her?

If he set it back to 22* adv. Then yes, that's the problem, you're not getting proper combustion, and an engine that is too far advanced will also experience overheating problems.

The base timing needs to be reset to 8*, I'm surprised the thing isn't detonating like crazy becasue it's right at the threshhold of doing so. Your distributer should be vacuum advanced unit, no? Make sure you disconnect the vacuum line to it (plug the hose while it's off) to get your base timing. Also, be sure you're reading the timing tab correclty, there were 2 different ones used.

The funny noise thing, not really sure, maybe a heat shield on the exhaust?

The base timing needs to be reset to 8*, I'm surprised the thing isn't detonating like crazy becasue it's right at the threshhold of doing so. Your distributer should be vacuum advanced unit, no? Make sure you disconnect the vacuum line to it (plug the hose while it's off) to get your base timing. Also, be sure you're reading the timing tab correclty, there were 2 different ones used.

The funny noise thing, not really sure, maybe a heat shield on the exhaust?

WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!!!!!!! The timing is back to 8* now but took her for a test drive with bubba, heard a horrid noise in back that I've never heard before, ughhhhhhh, she has a 308 rearend, should I put a different one in? Will take a look first, if I see medal then I will replace right? And still NO POWER IN 4TH GEAR:banghead: :banghead: !!!!!!!

Any ideas would be very much appreciated, tyvm, :mad: I want my bitch back!!

You set the timing with the advance off right?

You set the timing with the advance off right?

Yepper my dear, per your instructions, she went back to 8* just fine, question though, if my rearend was out, would that cause the tack to read high and no power in topend? I'm at a loss here, don't know what to do or what to check next, she is breaking the bank here, HELP:banghead: AND TYVM

I think by the time this car runs right again I'll have atleast 2 seizures. :screwy:

Now there's all the sudden noise from the rear end after setting the base ignition to where it should be at 8*?

The new "mechanic" verified the ingition system firing order is correct?

And again, this problem just appeared out of the blue? Nothing was done just before it started to act up/ Then the first mechanic replaced the carb and clutch?

Sorry to keep asking the same questions over and over, but something dosen't make sense.

If a carb is in proper tune, ignition is correct, exxhaust is clear (brand new now), and brakes aren't dragging. this problem should not exsist.

What exaclty did the first dipstick do to the trans? Just the clutch?

And, your welcome,.

Nope, funny noise when fatass got inthe car, lol the firing order is correct. There were funny noises but fired mechanic said the car was fine all in my head, so I brought her home and friend and me installed clutch and carb. She will start on click of key, and run without stalling, just driving it is when I have the problem. And I'm still not convinced that the brakes aren't dragging, they feel funny already and just put the drums on, wtf?:crying:


I think by the time this car runs right again I'll have atleast 2 seizures. :screwy:

Now there's all the sudden noise from the rear end after setting the base ignition to where it should be at 8*?

The new "mechanic" verified the ingition system firing order is correct?

And again, this problem just appeared out of the blue? Nothing was done just before it started to act up/ Then the first mechanic replaced the carb and clutch?

Sorry to keep asking the same questions over and over, but something dosen't make sense.

If a carb is in proper tune, ignition is correct, exxhaust is clear (brand new now), and brakes aren't dragging. this problem should not exsist.

What exaclty did the first dipstick do to the trans? Just the clutch?

And I'm still not convinced that the brakes aren't dragging, they feel funny already and just put the drums on, wtf?:crying:

Ok, then you NEED to do as previously suggested and get each tire off the ground and turn them by hand. A very slight drag is normal, Heavy drag to no turn obviously indicates a problem( remember to have it in neutral when checking the rears).

Only reason why ask about the trans is if it is ok in all other gears except 4th, then maybe the synchronizer is gone and the gear isn't holding. When you said the trans was worked on before, I ass-u-me'd that this would have been a cincideration by whomever did the work on it. A quick dirty check would be a drain of the trans, if it is extremely glittery with brass (synchro debris) then that's a good chance. Some presense of brass glitter is normal. Might as well drain and refill the differential while your at it, it's the same gear lube anyway. You lost me on the whole "fat ass" thing :dunno:

But with the base timing set correctly now it should be starting a whole lot easier, using less gas and smell pretty clean too.

I have had the trany rebuilt some years ago, will check the tires for drag as well as making sure everything is still hooked up right, the fired mechanic is the one that did the brakes and lied about turning drums. He is also the one that I made come to my house to reset timing to 8*, which I will also have double checked, he put the distributor vacuum so that it caught on the carb, grrrrrrrr just more of his rigging but I found this one, the carb is being replaced with a Edlebrock 600, with Electric choke back on, although she sounds so much better now. Will also check the trany fluid as well, she does have a rearmain leak. And the fatass is the fired mechanic that went for a test drive with me, lmao, Elizabeth and tyvm, can I keep picking your brain until I get her right? rofl:rofl:

Ok, then you NEED to do as previously suggested and get each tire off the ground and turn them by hand. A very slight drag is normal, Heavy drag to no turn obviously indicates a problem( remember to have it in neutral when checking the rears).

Only reason why ask about the trans is if it is ok in all other gears except 4th, then maybe the synchronizer is gone and the gear isn't holding. When you said the trans was worked on before, I ass-u-me'd that this would have been a cincideration by whomever did the work on it. A quick dirty check would be a drain of the trans, if it is extremely glittery with brass (synchro debris) then that's a good chance. Some presense of brass glitter is normal. Might as well drain and refill the differential while your at it, it's the same gear lube anyway. You lost me on the whole "fat ass" thing :dunno:

But with the base timing set correctly now it should be starting a whole lot easier, using less gas and smell pretty clean too.

can I keep picking your brain until I get her right? rofl:rofl:

Dear lord, it's starting to hurt :lol:

Awwwwwwwwwww, so sorry that it hurts, lmao, k, so the quad carb that was on it was defective, put a Holley on her, made a big difference, weeeeeeeeee, BUT still have the same problem, no baaaaaaaaa waaaaaaaaa that will throw your head back, soooooooooo am having the motor pulled in about a week, the guy that is doing it only works on and races camaro's and will pull motor, check, rebuild and re-install for about $800, I think it's a good deal, what do you think? I think it's a burnt valve from running to rich for so long, there is a miss that is there at high or low, what do you think? Want some Advil yet? lmao:evillol: ps. guess the other guys gave up on me? tyvm for the help, Elizabeth Ann

Dear lord, it's starting to hurt :lol:

$800 for a rip and rebuild, not bad. Hopefully his craftsmanship is better than the previous tinkerballs.

So he's going to do a full on rebuild?

No need for advils, head cured by cold brewed medication :cheers:

He's pulling the motor, having heads etc checked, and installing stock parts as I can't afford performance now, lmao, and ended up with a holley carb, I like it, weeeeeeee will get more details about what he is supposed to do and will put it in writing as well, I'm crazy not stupid, :evillol: He does know camaro's, can't wait to see his race cars though, waaaaaaaa, just know I'll be jealous and want my bitch faster than before, :naughty:

$800 for a rip and rebuild, not bad. Hopefully his craftsmanship is better than the previous tinkerballs.

So he's going to do a full on rebuild?

No need for advils, head cured by cold brewed medication :cheers:

So he's going to do a full on rebuild?

What does that include? Am not sure what all should be done, thanx, E

help, My Baby Needs Everything, Only Thing That Is Good Is Pistons, Where Can I Order A Quality Kit To Rebuild Her? Any And All Advice Is Appreciated, Tyvm, Elizabeth Ann, Ps. I Still Love My Monster Bitch, And The Fired Mechanic That Said There Was Nothing Wrong With The Motor Is Mine, Who Will Come And Get Me Out Of Jail? Roflmao Elizabeth Ann

Summit, Jegs, & PAW (performance automotive warehouse) are my choice venues. So the rings and bearings are fried I take?

I'm sure we could start a "bail a fellow member out jail" fund. I'd present the bail, but I think the misses would be aittle po'd about that :lol:

yepper, something broke and a piece went into motor, tore up everything, she now needs bored out

yepper, something broke and a piece went into motor, tore up everything, she now needs bored out

It gouged so deep that the block would have to be bored at 60 instead of standard 30, so I have to buy a new one, can get the small block with 3 yr warranty for about 750$, is that a good price? Intake is $60, I'm so screwed right now it's not even funny, :banghead: any and all advice is appreciated, tyvm:crying: Elizabeth Ann

well, you shouldn't have to replace the intake or anything else if the block is scored, the problem is in the block. You CAN go .060 over in the block, provided it hasn't been bored before.

well, you shouldn't have to replace the intake or anything else if the block is scored, the problem is in the block. You CAN go .060 over in the block, provided it hasn't been bored before.

The motor in the car is about 10-12 yrs old, intake is worn out, cam, etc, because it wasn't fixed when it happened would rather rebuild the whole motor and have a new car basically, already did the interior, tranny, rearend, (which needs to be redone, fired mechanic messed that up as well), has new clutch system, and the rear main seal on tranny needs replaced I think, will find out today, might take a ride out to new mechanics house to check things out and write down everything he found, then go and confront the fired mechanic that said THERE WAS NOTHING WRONG WITH MOTOR OR CLUTCH, (how is that jail fund coming?):rofl: ps. was told it would also have to be sleaved, that is how bad it is, was told that would make her run hot, she is for everyday driving not race track, is that right? tyvm Elizabeth ps. should have my monster bitch back by next weekend, weeeeeeeeee

Sleeving is a way out, and the most inexpensive at that. It will run a little hotter becasue the blocks natural ability to dissipate heat will be slightly hampered, but shouldn't be an issue.

It's a regular practice with diesel motors, but can be used in this type of situation. It will atleast get it back on the road and allow you to save up for a a new motor.

Sleeving is a way out, and the most inexpensive at that. It will run a little hotter becasue the blocks natural ability to dissipate heat will be slightly hampered, but shouldn't be an issue.

It's a regular practice with diesel motors, but can be used in this type of situation. It will atleast get it back on the road and allow you to save up for a a new motor.

:banghead: question? The frikkin car is doing the same thing, could it have something to do with the rearend being blown? going 55mph and tachis 35, or is it the damn tranny? HELP!!!!!!!!!:crying: :crying: :crying: tyvm Elizabeth Ann

Question? What would happen to a car and tach if the flywheel is worn out or has hot spots? Remember that fired mechanic DA'd the flywheel it's never been turned proper. thanx, E

okay one thing you keep losing me on is "tach reads 35" as in 35 X 100 for 3,500 rpm?

If the flywheel was worn, normally the clutch should slip and you'd hear the engine pick up rpms since there is a momentary loss of the drivetrain.

okay one thing you keep losing me on is "tach reads 35" as in 35 X 100 for 3,500 rpm?

If the flywheel was worn, normally the clutch should slip and you'd hear the engine pick up rpms since there is a momentary loss of the drivetrain.

Yepper, that is what I mean, like when driving 55 mph my tach reads 3500, way to high, but also going thru the gears the tach reads that high, so was thinkin the flywheel, everything has been replaced but that and I still have the same problem, waaaaaaaaaaaaaaa and tyvm:banghead:

It could be reading higher than normal because of a dead cylinder, in which we're going back to where it all began, the ignition system.

It could be reading higher than normal because of a dead cylinder, in which we're going back to where it all began, the ignition system.

Well except that it now has a new motor and new rearend in her, but still love my monster bitch, will keep ya updated, lol and tyvm, E:uhoh:

You know, you do not have the best of luck iwth finding the right people. So to clarify, this guy that "rebuilds and races Camaros", inwhich racing them requires them to be in pretty much top running order to be a contender, right? So he rebuilds this motor and gives the car back with same problem it was presented to him with? :screwy:

I have got to open a shop in your area, wow.

Obviously if the motor and trans/driveline have been reworked and the same problem keeps persisting, it HAS TO BE a a ignition or fuel problem and i still lean heavily on where we started 6 pages ago (dear lord) in this thread, the ignition system. If it were a fuel problem, the problem would be occuring trying to get the car moving not once it's up to speed.

Whew, time to check my blood pressure :cya: