2001 dodge ram 1500 4x4-55k miles

Had the right upper and lower balljoint replaced today and paid $360 for both. Was told only one by the inspection garage upper was bad. When i took to local Meineke muffler found out both upper and lower were bad. He even showed me both were loose. Then he told me the driver side both were a little loose and the tie rods were worn and i could not get a wheel alignment because of this. Question is truck has 55k babied miles and the front end needs all this work. I like this truck, is in a1 cindition but has anyone replaced what i did or had to replace the whole front end from joints to rods at 55k.

I have 116,000 on mine and only had a bad tie rod recently. They do have a few problems with the front end, but if you use quality aftermarket parts, most of them have done what they call a fix, don't use Mopar parts, they did not fix the problems. There is a good chance you will need to replace the trac bars in the future also. It is worth fixing the front end because once the problem original parts are replaced, they are tough front ends.

thanks for the reply

Well all is not well with the work done. Yesterday i noticed some oil dripping and thought it was just from doing the job i wiped it off the ground and the axel on the lower balljoint. I went looking for another truck prefably a 2500 ram came home and checked the axel again and oil dripping. Turned the wheel to one side and looks like the front axel seal is leaking they had to remove the axel to replace the balljoints must of pinched the axel seal. Im Pissed cause they should of put in a new one when everything was apart. Know they have to take it all apart to put new seal in. Im not going to pay a dime to have this done they should been more careful when reinstalling the axel. I tried to call the shop but was closed today 1/2 day. Will call Monday and tell him he has to fix. This will cost about the 200$ labor to take apart and install a 10$ seal that should of been replaced in the first place. I was not told anything about this seal with the possible problems that might occur.

Oppinions welcomed should the shop fix free of charge?
Im prepared to fight this with a small claims file in court for their stupidity in not replacing the seal and taking a chance of it leaking. thanks

They don't have to remove the axel to rplace the ball joints, but yes they should be responsible because they probably damaged the seal while beating on the spindle to remove the hub assy.

A study was done a number of years ago by the gov. concerning ball joint wear. An average maintained ball joint had an average life of 102,000 miles before it was worn enough to replace. Wish I still had that paperwork. It was interesting. And a reputable(?) shop once informed me on my Chevy van that I needed ball joints so they could do the alignment that I had put it in for. I had checked the ball joints the day before and they had only a couple thousands play and were no where NEAR to needing replacement. I lit them up and they agreed there must have been an error in the "mechanics" check. The recheck indicated they were fine. That same place had a class action filed against them months later for doing much unnecessary work. Made me feel great that I had caught them myself.

Lots of tire shops replace ball joint prematurely, they do not realize that there is a wear limit of 0.030" on a 2001 1500 dodge 1500. This wear limit is both lateral on the upper ball joint (side to side ) and axial on the lower ball joint up and down (up and down ). You will find movement in a brand new ball joint.

Brought truck back to shop and was told the oil leak is just residule oil from when they pulled the axel and will drip out till the housing for the axel dries up of the oil. I was told if it is the seal he will fix but give it a few days to a week for the oil to dry up in the shaft housing.

What do you all think? I thought there was a seal at the end of the shaft on the housing but was told its way inside and when the shaft was pulled some oil got into the housing. Any input/comments?

Brought truck back to shop and was told the oil leak is just residule oil from when they pulled the axel and will drip out till the housing for the axel dries up of the oil. I was told if it is the seal he will fix but give it a few days to a week for the oil to dry up in the shaft housing.

What do you all think? I thought there was a seal at the end of the shaft on the housing but was told its way inside and when the shaft was pulled some oil got into the housing. Any input/comments? I was under the impression that your leak was pretty substantial, but yes what they said is true, although why they pulled the axel is a mystery, it's not neccessary to do balljoints. If the leak stops you are in good shape, but it happens sometimes when putting an axel back in, they damage the seal. Just wait and see, sounds like they will take care of it if it is bad.

Tony36

thanks for the replys.

Yes the leak stopped and it looks like to me that you can't get the bottom joint out with out getting the axel out cause the ujount is right there. There is even not enough room to get a grease gun on the grease fitting. When i went back the shop said it is just oil leaked into the housing. I thought there was a seal at the end near the tire but was told its way inside near the center . He told me he does this all the time and you will get some oil in the housing with the axel out. Well i hope it will last not leaking. Also i dont know why i cant post pictures i have some good digital pics of the balljoints and the leak but it says i cant post attachments. Been a member for about little over a year.