1996 Dodge Grand Caravan LE 4-Speed Transmission Fluid, Filter and Gasket Change 101

Last updated 20-March-2006 (See Document Revision History)

Introduction... Although these procedures were originally written specifically for the 1996 Dodge Grand Caravan LE, they also apply to all 1996, 1997 and 1998 Dodge Caravan, Plymouth Voyager and Chrysler Town & Country Mini-vans with the 3.8L engine equipped with 4-speed Automatic Transmission. These procedures may apply to other years as well.

Before you get started, you should run your VIN through Dodge's Recall Check Procedure. Your Dealer may have to fix it FREE by law. To find out if your vehicle has any current unperformed or incomplete recalls or customer satisfaction notifications, get the last 8 characters of your VIN and go here to make sure that your vehicle has had ALL of its recall work done:
http://www-5.dodge.com/webselfservice/dodg...rm%28%27R%27%29 (http://www-5.dodge.com/webselfservice/dodge/index.jsp?screenName=recall&country=us&emailUrl=goToEmailForm%28%27R%27%29)

As an aside, here is a compiled list of helpful information sources which can be found in forums of various web sites and user communities (including this one):
http://www.allpar.com/forums/index.php?showforum=16
http://www.autobanter.com/forumdisplay.php?f=23
http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=47
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/...splay.php?f=139 (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=139)
http://www.dodgeforum.com/forumid_30/tt.htm
And lastly, please read through this entire document to familiarize yourself with what it covers and what it does not cover. Your job will be a whole lot easier if you do... really.

Document Revision History... placed at the end of this document. If you find/found this document useful, please say so, even if you have to create a login ID to do so!... friends, that ALSO means that if you have information for model years or part numbers not mentioned in this document, please show your appreciation and post it so WE can make this document better than it already is!

4-Speed Automatic Transmission Filter, Fluid and Gasket Change

BEFORE we begin, let me be clear... I did not realize until after dropping the pan on my 4-speed automatic transmission that this procedure only replaces about HALF (4.5-5 qts.) of all of the ATF+3 fluid in the transmission (of 9.5 qts. total, according to my Haynes manual). As maddening as it may seem, Chrysler's transmission design (unlike most GM 4-speed autos), does NOT allow ALL of the fluid to simply drain from the transmission by dropping the pan. (What the hell?)

Interestingly, the Service Manager at my Dodge dealer told me that the standard 30,000 mile transmission service does NOT call for a complete fluid flush. In other words, if I take my vehicle to the dealer, they will drop the pan, replace the filter (gasket if necessary) and add the 4.5 quarts of transmission fluid that came out of the transmission when they dropped the pan. This information cinched it for me... I decided to do it myself.

SO, if you are thinking about trying to save money by having Expressway flush your transmission, consider this: an Expressway Service Manager told me (and I quote) "We do NOT use ATF+3 fluid... we use a 'stock fluid' and put in an 'additive' to make this stock fluid 'behave like' ATF+3." I'm not trying to tell anyone what to do, but you may wish to very carefully ponder this information before you have Expressway (or anyone else other than a dealer) service your "delicate" Chrysler automatic transmission. Decisions, decisions.

Another thing to consider is whether or not you choose to use a non-OEM filter and gasket kit like ProKing (available at Advance Auto for about $12)...

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f302/HeadlessHorsemn/NewTransFilterandGasketProKing.jpg

After careful consideration and the fact that I'm on my third transmission), I chose not to do my filter and gasket "on the cheap" and elected instead to go with the OEM version (about $60)...

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f302/HeadlessHorsemn/NewTransFilterandGasketOEM.jpg

Filters and O-Rings look much the same, but the OEM gasket is metal with a bead of silicone around the inside edge which, I was told by my dealer, is reuseable three (3) times (such a deal)... while the non-OEM version is a rubber gasket and may or may not be reuseable. The OEM gasket alone costs (about $22) almost twice as much as the WHOLE non-OEM kit (gasket AND filter) too.

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PART NUMBERS, MANUFACTURERS & POINT of PURCHASE

FILTER & GASKET: From a Dealer Part #04864505AB and #05011115AA Filter & Gasket bought separately ($60.07 [with 6% sales tax]); WIX Part # 58934 Filter & Gasket Kit ($8.27+Shipping at RockAuto.Com); FRAM Part # FT1122 Filter & Gasket Kit ($81.79+Shipping at RockAuto.Com); ProKing Part #FK-177 Filter & Gasket Kit ($11.66 [with 6% sales tax]).

FLUID: AdvanceAuto - Valvoline ATF+3 ($14.68 - 5qts@$2.77ea [with 6% sales tax]).

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COST COMPARISON DATA: My Dealer Does the Work / I Do the Work

My Dealer's Estimate
Filter, Gasket & 4.5qts. ATF+3 - $189.99
6% CT State Sales Tax - $11.40
TOTAL Dealer Price - $201.39

My Actual Costs
Filter, Gasket & 4.5qts. ATF+3 - $70.52
6% CT State Sales Tax - $4.23
My TOTAL Actual Cost - $74.75

TOTAL Savings - $126.64 - I reduced my repair bill over 62% - If you choose to use a non-OEM kit, you save another $50 or so.

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Git’er DONE…

Step #1.) - DISCONNECT the NEGATIVE Battery Cable from the battery. If you FAIL to do this, you risk shorting out a number of components that are EXPENSIVE to replace. You might also accidentally deploy either or both of your AIRBAGs which are HIDEOUSLY expensive to replace - not to mention extremely DANGEROUS should you be anywhere near these explosive devices when they go off!

2.) Raise the vehicle using jackstands or drive it up a ramp rated at 12,000 lbs. like I did. The pan is located under and behind the front bumper on the driver's side of the vehicle. Note that my transmission pan is leaking which, I found out later, was due to my dealer NOT using a gasket when they replaced my transmission... they simply squirted RTV silicone out of a tube to make a gasket...

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f302/HeadlessHorsemn/LeakingPan.jpg

3.) Get a large flat pan (mine measured 2'x3', about 1/2" deep and I needed every inch of it) to catch splatter and a pot or two and place them under the transmission to catch the fluid that will come out of the pan... this is a messy job! Oh, and make sure you have LOTs of rags at hand.

4.) I started with a 10mm long socket on a 3/8" ratchet and began by loosening the bolts toward the rear of the vehicle, moving up each side toward the front of the vehicle. It'll drip slowly at first, then that "magic bolt" will cause a torrent. Remember, your pan should be capable of catching 4-4.5 quarts of old fluid. Be patient and let this stuff come out slowly.

5.) With your pan off, you will notice that there is probably sludge in the botton of the pan and maybe old RTV silicone sealer to remove if your dealer chose not to use a gasket like mine did. Notice also some buildup around and on the round magnet sitting semi-loose in the bottom of the pan (actually, my pan was fairly clean)...

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f302/HeadlessHorsemn/Sludge.jpg

6.) Clean up any gasket material left behind on the pan and on the transmission, careful not to damage the surfaces. Afterward, your pan should look something like this:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f302/HeadlessHorsemn/CleanPan.jpg

7.) CAREFULLY remove the old filter from the transmission while noting the orientation of the filter to the transmission. There is more old fluid in the old filter... surprise! Now look at the new filter in your hands and make SURE the O-Ring is in place. Then install it in the transmission. Here's a shot of the O-Ring installed on the filter...

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f302/HeadlessHorsemn/O-Ring.jpg

8.) Place the new gasket on the pan and start by hand tightening the 10mm bolts through the pan and gasket to the bottom of the transmission. Torque the bolts to 15ft.lbs or, if you prefer, 180in.lbs in two or three passes (i.e. start at 6, then 12, then 15 ft.lbs... or 72, then 144, then 180 in.lbs.) It doesn't matter which bolt is number 1... I used the following torque sequence...

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f302/HeadlessHorsemn/TorquePan2.jpg

9.) Lower the vehicle and fill the transmission through the fluid filler tube to 4 quarts. Make sure the Parking Break is ON.

10.) Start the motor with the transmission in Park for about 3 minutes. CHECK FOR LEAKS DURING THIS TIME. Then starting in Low, move the shifter to each gear, waiting for about a minute in each gear before moving to the next, including reverse... eventually ending in Park.

11.) Take it for a spin... and check the fluid level in Park, engine running after a few miles. You might need to add another half-quart or so.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f302/HeadlessHorsemn/flinstonecaravan1.jpg

You’re done!

DOCUMENT REVISION HISTORY
20-MAR-2006: Published with pictures

Great detailed explanation though I don't know who your dealer is they are obviously screwing people with that price for a fluid change . Local Dodge dealer here will do a 3 speed with ATF +3 for $79 and I just had our 2004 T&C tranny done for $99 with ATf +4 .

Great detailed explanation though I don't know who your dealer is they are obviously screwing people with that price for a fluid change . Local Dodge dealer here will do a 3 speed with ATF +3 for $79 and I just had our 2004 T&C tranny done for $99 with ATf +4 .Interesting... Does your dealer include a filter change, a new gasket and cleaning of the pan and magnet? It doesn't sound like it.

Just a REMINDER... This is something you should do AT LEAST every 30,000 miles. If you don't, it could be a $3,000 mistake.

Nice post!

A tip regarding loosening the oil pan bolts to release the fluid.

Take out all the bolts except four; two at the front and two at the back.

Loosen the bolts (don't take them out) that are at a higher elevation (typically front) a little to make the pan closer to level.

Slowly take out the other two bolts, working back and forth. You can control the fluid much better this way.

Brought my 97 GV back from the dead and corrected a "lube place" mistake. Thanks!

Check the fluid level in Nuetral instead of in park and this is more accurate.The fluid drains out of the torque converter when in park and this is the reason why to check it in Neutral.I leave one bolt on drain it that way which also works.You do not have to get the ATF+4 fluid at the dealer anymore,most parts stores sell it now and I know Carquest does sell it.

Just a REMINDER... This is something you should do AT LEAST every 30,000 miles. If you don't, it could be a $3,000 mistake.

BUMP - Now's the time to do this maintenance - BEFORE the warm weather season!