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YAY I got my DSM and its overheating! ....


Thor06
03-15-2006, 10:00 PM
Ok, so I got to the place and took my DSM out for a test drive, it drives like a dream. Theres a couple small surface rust spots around the wheelwells but nothing serious, like two noticeable door dings, and the front bumper is toasted (big rip) but other than that, its really straight and the paint is still good and shiney. Crusty rims, but that doesnt matter, its getting nicer ones later anyway. The interior is nice, not smelly, no rips, and all original. Like I said before, it runs like a dream. I'd go as far as to say that it gives the Cavy a run for its money on overall mechanical operation. Stops, rides, and accelerates (though I didnt boost it) well and it shifts 80 times better than Mike's DSM. It actually probably shifts better than my 01 Cavy. Keep in mind he said the head gasket is on the way to being blown and its overheating.

So anyway, I drove it about 10 minutes out when it got up to operating temp and it just stayed there. So I took it back and stayed right in the middle of the guage. So we left and I payed close attention to the temp guage. 10 more minutes, 20, 30, all with no signs of any trouble. So I was starting to get pretty comfortable. We get to a stretch of the highway where there was 4-5 stoplights and we had to stop for them all. Well, on the 5th one the temp guage was up to the top white line, but not into the red or the space between the white line and the red. We pulled into a shell station and I got some coolant thinking it was getting low and thats why it was starting to get hot. I got back out to the car with the coolant and sure enough, the overflow tank was still full! Also, the oil wasnt milky at all. So I was thinking maybe there was a faulty temp sensor.

We get back onto the highway and start going again, I figured the temp went up because there wasnt enough air going over the radiator. So we get going and it gets about halfway between that top white line and the middle and my worries started to calm down a bit. Then as we were cruising at ~65 it started to climb again, but it fluctuated so much. In a matter of 2-3 seconds it would move about a 1/4 sweep of the guage down and come back up slowly. Then it went past the line and hit the red so I pulled over and popped the hood. The bypass valve was blowing steam, but no leaks or anything. We pulled it into the closest driveway, a fireplace store, and they are letting us keep it there until Friday when my dad and I are going to go down and flatbed it home. In the parking lot, I started it quick. Still hot, no fans. I cracked the radiator plug and let the steam bleed off and we parked it until Friday.

What do you guys think? Fan problem? I'm thinking the HG might be ok since it wasnt burning any coolant and the fans have a loose connection because of the temp being fine then suddenly going to hell. I'm thinking I will just replace it all, it will all probably go later anyway, might as well be now.

So since the fans are/possibly are shitty, I'm thinking its Slimline time (plus FMIC is like 3rd on the mod list, a little extra space would be nice). 12" is the biggest right? Should I get that? One or two? How do they mount up? How do they connect?

I ran for maybe a minute in the red on the temp guage as I called my mom to tell her to pull over, what damage could have happened and is it likely anything did happen?

Comments, suggetions, and answers are all welcome. Thanks guys.

PS - I will take pictures when we get it up here.

xavier3jr
03-15-2006, 10:06 PM
ur good as long as u didnt run it too long on the red line.

ez1286
03-15-2006, 10:07 PM
It sounds like it could be the fans or even the thermal switch for the fans. You could try connecting the fans to power directly, or even try thermostat (cheap and easy).ike you said it doesn't sound like a hg.

Thor06
03-15-2006, 10:29 PM
Ok. I found this fan on eBay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/14-INCH-ELECTRIC-COOLING-FAN-PRO-SERIES-14-INCH-FAN_W0QQitemZ8045043779QQcategoryZ33600QQtcZphotoQ QrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Heres a break down of what I jus found:
SBR 14" fan..... 1360cfm...... ~$90
eBay 14" fan.....2000cfm.......~35

I'm thinking eBay fan :D. Also, the rockauto thermostats are <$10. What temp do I need? 160, 180, or 195? I think I will try those two things and run it for a while and see what happens.

ez1286
03-15-2006, 10:37 PM
Wow thats cheap as hell. I might buy one at some point. Isn't 180 normal temp? I'd go with 180 for now.

Thor06
03-15-2006, 10:52 PM
Actually, I just checked in the haynes manual, its 190. Would the 180 be a good idea just so it runs a little cool that a little hot?

Thor06
03-16-2006, 09:06 PM
Any ideas on how to connect an aftermarket 14" fan so it turns when the engine gets hot? I sure dont want to have to have a fan switch, but if need be I will. What about how to mount it up?

MexRocket
03-16-2006, 09:14 PM
could always have your fan on all the time like me =P well I only have one, that is real cheap for a fan

ez1286
03-16-2006, 09:28 PM
Any ideas on how to connect an aftermarket 14" fan so it turns when the engine gets hot? I sure dont want to have to have a fan switch, but if need be I will. What about how to mount it up?
There is thermal sensor that is attached to the fan, it's a square about 1/2" by 2" it has holes in it. There should be two wires from that to the fan, hook those up to the fan's power and mount the sensor near it. I just hooked them up to a power and had em run all the time...

Thor06
03-16-2006, 10:04 PM
That is a good idea. I think I will some how hook it up through a switch and just leave the switch on all the time unless for some reason I want it to be off. Hooking it up to the stock stuff is just one more thing to break. Not like it hurts anything to be on all the time and I doubt it draws much current. Besides, I think its that thermal sensor thing that is broked. Or a loose connection. Blah, a switch would be much easier. Would I throw a CEL if I just unplug it?

SLoe
03-16-2006, 10:11 PM
Don't forget to test/replace the cap :2cents: Most overlooked component in the cooling system IMO.

Ed: Also just my opinion, but the factory ECU was tuned with the factory thermostat. If you have no air/fuel control I think you should stay with the factory temp stat. Lower temp thermostats, do lower under hood temps, and increase horsepower but there are some drawbacks too. Lower engine temps make combustion less efficient, and lead to moisture build up. So after you do get a lower temp thermostat, make sure you don't slack on changing your oil.

ez1286
03-16-2006, 10:16 PM
No you wont get a cel, if it was broken i'd think (but i'm not a mitsu engineer) it would default with the fan on. You could always have a switch in the engine bay, if you think it will be on most of the time. That way not as much wiring.

MexRocket
03-16-2006, 11:08 PM
No you don't get the CEL, I have mine one all the time, no CEL.

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