I have a 1990 Toyota Camry with 105,000 miles on it. I was leaking oil and my mechanic stated it was coming from the distributor. The distributor was old so I went with it and had it changed. The car still leaks oil, it is dripping from the oil pan. All the nuts were tightened and when I brought it back to the mechanic he stated "it is just sweat". To me water "sweats", not oil. Any advice?

Also I have power windows and door locks. All four of the windows do not open, even when I try to operate each individual window switch. The door lock switch and the automatic seat belt only operate on the passenger side. Any suggestions there? Thanks in advance to all

If it was leaking from the distributor it would be an oil seal and not the distributor itself.
Now about your power problems. Considering the age of your car it mignt be the connectors. Try to find them. Disconnect and reconnect back. It may be just a poor contact. I have also had broken wires in the harness that go to the doors. Wire broke from constant openning-closing doors. But that was an old chevy. So it is prematurely to blame toyota for this.

Sam

A tube of RTV Ultra Black costs $5usd. Drop your pan & fix the SOB... Clean the mating surfaces first & let it setup overnight before refilling the oil pan.

I brought it back to the mechanic he stated "it is just sweat".
What an idiot (or he thought you were one, and could con you).

I have a 1990 Toyota Camry with 105,000 miles on it. I was leaking oil and my mechanic stated it was coming from the distributor. The distributor was old so I went with it and had it changed. The car still leaks oil, it is dripping from the oil pan. All the nuts were tightened and when I brought it back to the mechanic he stated "it is just sweat". To me water "sweats", not oil. Any advice?

Also I have power windows and door locks. All four of the windows do not open, even when I try to operate each individual window switch. The door lock switch and the automatic seat belt only operate on the passenger side. Any suggestions there? Thanks in advance to all
For sure, that's a worthless mechanic you went to.

If you think you can do the job yourself, drive the car up a pair of 4,000 lb ramps front end first, then crawl underneath, remove the drain pan, clean the mating surfaces 'tween drain pan and engine block, apply fresh "Hi-Temp" RTV, then reinstall the drain pan.

Only bit of problem could be that the front end cross member might block access to the drain pan. This would make it necessary to remove the cross member which is secured by some high torque bolts. You might need a "breaker bar" for this unless you have a $299 Ridgid portable impact wrench at your disposal.

And one more thing...make sure the leak is not coming from somewhere behind the crankshaft pulley. It could also be the crankshaft forward oil seal that's leaking.