hi i was wondering if some one can help with my problem.... i recently went to midas and had them change the front pad and then 2 weeks later had to go back cause my rubber hose got pinched (conviently for them) so i had that replaced then it turns out they didnt replace the pads that got burned on the passenger side. ... .. .so i did and for some reason they were still locking up on the same side so i changed the Caliper and bleeded the line and i am still having the same problem when i drive for a little time i can feel the pads are holding cause the engine struggles and the rims get HOT and i can also smell the pads burning any one have any ideas to my problem here...
96 dodge caravan
2 wd / 3.3 engine

This started with Midas touching your van. They need to correct their mistakes. It's truely unfortunate you chose Midas. To put it nicely, they ARE unfortunates.

If you have antilock brakes have Autozone or PepBoys connect a scanner and check for error codes for free. If you end up having Midas look at it again they can do it to, that is if they even know what a scanner looks like. Of course they will charge for it. Are you getting ABS lights?

If non ABS, I would guess they need to be bled again or the master cylinder may need to be rebuilt. Keep us updated

Thanks first off if it was up to me i wouldnt have went to midas cause i usally do all my work but the fact was it blizzarding out and about 5 degrees out and the brakes were grinding so ... lol

it does have the ABS do i still take it to autozone Even if the Check Engine light hasnt come on at all not even the ABS light has come on

The old rock and a hard place. I've been there. Been a while since I've seen a blizzard. Come on out to southern Cal.

The Controller Antilock Brake or CAB, the brain of your anti-lock brake system, stores any malfunctions it detects as a code that can be read by a DRB II scanner. If you haven't seen the ABS light come on, there may not be any codes stored. I would call the dealer and ask if the CAB will store codes from intermittent failures. The light could have come on and gone out without you seeing it. Does anybody else out there know if the CAB will store intermittent fails?
Here's a link that might help: http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1a/4c/a1/0900823d801a4ca1.jsp

It is saying you need to use the scanner to bleed. Hmm...??? Click on the other topics in the right column for more system info.

well i just got home from driving again and it appears that both front rims are pretty hot from the brakes holding and both have the burning smell so since it is both does this sound like the master cyclinder? oh and i am still getting the hard pedel after a little pedel pushing lol

Yes. If both sides are not releasing then the master cylinder makes sense. It's up to you but, at this point I would take it to some knowledgable eyes for him to figure out. The ABS system complicates the situation and they are nothing to mess with. If you're leaning towards a master cylinder change the bleed procedure for it has to be done with a DRBII scanner so you might as well have them verify the need for the change before you throw more money at it. I would stay away from the chain shops and find a family run shop thats been around forever. Keep in touch.

Does your ABS light come on and go off as normal when you start up?

yes the ABS light works as Normal comes on at start and off feww secs later ... well i think i might know where all my problem is coming from contaimination of fluids in the master cyclinder gaskets are over sized and slimey as told by a dealer they would be like .... so it looks like i lose out and get to replace the whole braking system any one know where on the net to get a diagraham to view the braking system parts of this type year van?

hi i am looking for a brake diagram for my van does any one know where i can get one from to look at on the internet?
96 dodge caravan ES

Just replace your master cylinder and purge all the old fluid and you'll be fine.

yeah but what about the ABS system i am told that wont work cause of that reason of the contamination of the fluids. also what is the part called where the lines come from each brake front caliper and each rear cylinder into this block on the bottom of the engine and then from what i can see 2 lines run back to the master cylinder...

Just replace your master cylinder and purge all the old fluid and you'll be fine.

Avoid driving with the brakes locking. You may have a fire occuring soon

yeah but what about the ABS system i am told that wont work cause of that reason of the contamination of the fluids. also what is the part called where the lines come from each brake front caliper and each rear cylinder into this block on the bottom of the engine and then from what i can see 2 lines run back to the master cylinder...Its called the brake proportion valve. But like someone suggested ,change the master cyl. and make sure that "all" the air is bled Air expands a whole lot more than brake fluid and will push the calipers out and get worst. The master cylinder has a residual pressure control valve that does not let all of the fluid to return to the resivoir and if this sticks or gets gummy it will hold to much pressure to the calipers. Completely flush all the lines out with brake fluid and DO NOT USE hydraulic jack oil

I'm having a similar problem with my 90 Caravan. Seems the front wheel calipers are locking up and burning up my breaks... sometimes. I've traced it back to the master cylinder (no ABS) and it seems that one port of my master is not passing any fluid at all, and it's hanging up my brake pedal (pedal is not returning completely). So I'm off to get a new master tonight, and I'll put it in tomorrow. I'll let you all know how it goes.

Turns out my problem was my master cylinder. I got a replacement from Autozone for $20. It was easy to put in, they give you little hoses to "bench" bleed the unit. You can install the unit, then "bench" bleed before hooking up the lines. I was surprised that the bleeder nipples on the wheels still turned and were not rusted on to the point of breaking off, as this was a 1990 van with more than 160,000 miles. If I had to replace the calipers in the front, it was cheap ($20) per side. If I had to replace the wheel cylinders in the rear, it was only $11 per wheel. The only thing was it took a lot of pumping to get all the air out of the lines, so buy two quarts of brake fluid. So have no fear to do this brake job.