My 2003 4 banger Camry AC Compressor will not kick in?

I have checked some fuses under hood and interior, #34 and #57 I believe, but none are zapped? No voltage across the ones that can be measured?

The light for a/c is green on the panel, and can be turned on and off but you never hear or see the compressor kick in?

The car's AC has been solid up until now with 38,000 miles on it. Any ideas?

Buy a manual with a schematic. ($15-20) If the electrics aren't the problem more than likely the refrigerant has leaked and won't let the compressor turn on. It's a failsafe to keep the compressor from eating itself. If you've had zero experience with servicing take it to a shop and have them check and service it. It's one hell of a lot safer. This system can ruin your life if you don't know what you're doing. You can always bombard the tech with questions so that next time you might have an idea of how to service refrigerant.

I bet you are spot on.

I have an old refill kit I used on R12 systems can this hose be used to add a can of 134a type freon?

Im betting no because they have different size connectors. They're cheap. Buy a new one. Hopefully, your compressor will turn on while you're servicing.
Just make sure you connect it to the LOW PRESSURE service port and wear safety goggles and gloves. If one can fixes your problem I would highly recommend you let a shop finish it. At least you will have figured out the problem.They will put a dye in the system and find your leak. Let us know what you find.

I just purchased a refill kit and added two cans of r134a to no avail. The compressor kicked on a little into the first can of freon, yeah! But, only getting warm air still! I sure hope the compressor did'nt go out.

I had a 1988 Honda CRX DX for 17 years and never did anything but add a can or two of R12, then converted to R134A.

What now???

Crap! So close but........

Theory 1) If your A/C systems leak started quite a while ago, moisture could have gotten in the system via the leak. When you refilled the system and it pressurised, the moiture could have frozen and blocked a line somewhere.

Theory 2) It may have been totally empty of freon and the vacuum is completely gone.

Theory 3) You may have over filled it. The one time I did that it had a half pound too much in it and the compressor would cycle on and off at about a 3 second interval.

I'm leaning toward #2. The system has to have freon and run in a vacuum state. I would (you're getting tired of hearing this) take it to a shop where they have all the equipment and know how (you hope) to draw a vacuum on the system, refill it with freon, oil,and dye, and find your leak. At least you've got an indication now that it's not electrical and you know there's a leak.

Once it started did the compressor ever turn off? Could the freon have leaked out while you were servicing? Could be the case if the leak is big enough. Have you done a good visual on the system? Look for oily spots. If by chance there's dye in the system you'll see bright green or pink areas. When it's all said and done, I would change the drier. It could be saturated with moisture or contaminates. In fact, anytime you change a component in the A/C, the drier should be changed with it. Keep in touch.

1.) The compressor never turned off, once it kicked in.

2.) It cannot be overfilled because the pressure gauge never got to the charged level.

Condenssor/dryer is leaking from a rock hit more than likely.

Any difference in a Denso condenssor/dryer vs. an aftermarket one?

I would go with the Denso (OEM) part. The few extra bucks will go a long way. Using aftermarket parts is kinda like a crap shoot. It might or might not work. OEM parts give you a much better chance of fixing it once. You're never sure what you get with an aftermarket part.

I've never changed a condensor. Couldn't be much tougher than a radiator. If you've never done a radiator I would wait till you've got plenty of free time incase something goes wrong. Don't forget to change the dryer too. Then you've got to take it to a shop so they can draw a vacuum. That will suck most of the oil and contaminates out. Then they will refill it with the correct amount of freon, oil, and a dye. Oil is critical if you want the compressor to last. Dye is incase there is another leak or to detect future leaks. Congrats on finding the culprit. Let us know how you did. We can all learn something.