Speaker Specs
chris244
03-03-2006, 08:47 PM
I have an 05 TB with a NON Boise stereo system and I want to upgrade from stock. I bought a nice aftermarket deck that sounds great and was wondering about speakers. Does anyone know the specs of the stock speakers (power rating, size, 3-way or not). Also how difficult is it to rip off the door panels to get in there?
Thanks
Chris
Thanks
Chris
rodeo02
03-03-2006, 09:31 PM
Chris, this outfit used to offer free info: http://www.carstereoremoval.com/htm/stereoremovalChevroletTrailBlazer02_05P.htm Looks like you have to pay up now :banghead: I have bought wiring and a set of DIN forks from them over the years. Decent outfit to mailorder from.
G/luck
Joel
G/luck
Joel
coolcloo1019
03-07-2006, 10:46 AM
Door panels are easy to come off. I bought a component set of Infinity 3 ways in the front, 2 ways in the back. Sounds awesome. Not much bass from them but I guess that's what the 3 Infinity 12's are for. :)
rodeo02
03-07-2006, 10:55 AM
Yep, just dont force anything, and make sure it's not too cold out. The warmer the better when popping plastic panels!
G/luck
Joel
G/luck
Joel
balboasdelight
03-07-2006, 02:18 PM
Does anyone know the specs of the stock speakers (power rating, size, 3-way or not). Also how difficult is it to rip off the door panels to get in there?
The front factory speakers have a separate tweeter; the rear are single cones. Size is 6.5"; don't know about power rating. They are very "efficient," meaning they are driven to a high volume level with little power. That's largely because the cones are made of lightweight (flimsy) material. Quality aftermarket speakers have polypropelene cones, rubber surrounds, titanium tweeters and who knows what all sorts of advanced materials. When properly driven, they produce superior sound at all levels -- but they are less "efficient" than the stock speakers. That means you will need a power amplifier to really drive them as they were designed to be driven (your aftermarket head unit may have a high enough power output). There are a couple of little plastic locator nubs that you will need to cut off when replacing the speakers.
The doors are easy. On the rear, remove a little cover from inside the door handle, and remove the 10mm bolt. Unsnap the panel down the sides and across the bottom, and lift off (pull off the window button and door handle trim pieces first). Same for the front, but there are two 10mm bolts in each door. Both are accessed under the switch panel trim. When replacing the doors, they sort of hang on a shelf across the top; it can be tricky re-hanging them sometimes.
Good luck.
.
The front factory speakers have a separate tweeter; the rear are single cones. Size is 6.5"; don't know about power rating. They are very "efficient," meaning they are driven to a high volume level with little power. That's largely because the cones are made of lightweight (flimsy) material. Quality aftermarket speakers have polypropelene cones, rubber surrounds, titanium tweeters and who knows what all sorts of advanced materials. When properly driven, they produce superior sound at all levels -- but they are less "efficient" than the stock speakers. That means you will need a power amplifier to really drive them as they were designed to be driven (your aftermarket head unit may have a high enough power output). There are a couple of little plastic locator nubs that you will need to cut off when replacing the speakers.
The doors are easy. On the rear, remove a little cover from inside the door handle, and remove the 10mm bolt. Unsnap the panel down the sides and across the bottom, and lift off (pull off the window button and door handle trim pieces first). Same for the front, but there are two 10mm bolts in each door. Both are accessed under the switch panel trim. When replacing the doors, they sort of hang on a shelf across the top; it can be tricky re-hanging them sometimes.
Good luck.
.
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