How To Tank And Fuel Pump
nickledimed
03-03-2006, 08:28 AM
I got so bored at work so I thought I would write this up....sorry...no pics.
Replacing the fuel pump on a 98 chevy s10 Blazer.
1. Disconnect the battery and Empty the tank.
Either use a siphoned hose, “walmart have one with a bulb on it for about 5 bucks” or use an old fuel pump with hoses attached.. either way you will have to empty the tank.
2. Remove the spare tire.
3. Chock the front wheels and raise the rear of the vehicle and support it with jack stands. (ALWAYS SAFETY FIRST!!!!!)
4. This is a good time to spray all your bolts with penetrating oil.
5. From the rear of the vehicle you should be able to access the hose connections and the electrical connections for the pump. If need be you can loosen the rear fuel tank strap and lower the rear of the tank enough to give you more room to work. The electrical connections have a snap clip so you will have to lift the clip to clear the catch. For the fuel lines the connections are a snap type connection, you will have to squeeze the connection to get them off. The middle hose on the fuel pump does not have this and it should just slide off.
6. There are 2 hose clamps that you need to loosen that connect the tank to the gas port and another for ventilation.
7. Now comes the fun part. Either support the tank with a floor jack with a board protecting the tank or have someone ready. Slowly loosen the straps, but make sure that you remove the front strap first, you want the rear strap loose enough so that you can lower the front of the tank enough to remove the hose from the vent valve, this is very easy to break so be careful. Now the tank is ready to be lowered and removed from the vehicle.
8. To remove the Fuel assembly from the tank you will need a pair of snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring. Once that is off gently pull the assembly out of the tank. You will have to rotate the assembly to allow for the sending unit arm to clear the tank.
9. Now either replace the whole unit or just replace the fuel pump.
10. To reinstall the pump and tank just reverse the order. Just a note: 1. Use dielectric grease on the electrical connection just smear it around the connector; don’t put any ON the end of the connector just around it. And 2. it’s a good idea to grease up the big hoses that have hose claps on them; this makes it a lot easier to stab the tank.
I wish I had pics but when I did this it was like 30 degrees outside.
Replacing the fuel pump on a 98 chevy s10 Blazer.
1. Disconnect the battery and Empty the tank.
Either use a siphoned hose, “walmart have one with a bulb on it for about 5 bucks” or use an old fuel pump with hoses attached.. either way you will have to empty the tank.
2. Remove the spare tire.
3. Chock the front wheels and raise the rear of the vehicle and support it with jack stands. (ALWAYS SAFETY FIRST!!!!!)
4. This is a good time to spray all your bolts with penetrating oil.
5. From the rear of the vehicle you should be able to access the hose connections and the electrical connections for the pump. If need be you can loosen the rear fuel tank strap and lower the rear of the tank enough to give you more room to work. The electrical connections have a snap clip so you will have to lift the clip to clear the catch. For the fuel lines the connections are a snap type connection, you will have to squeeze the connection to get them off. The middle hose on the fuel pump does not have this and it should just slide off.
6. There are 2 hose clamps that you need to loosen that connect the tank to the gas port and another for ventilation.
7. Now comes the fun part. Either support the tank with a floor jack with a board protecting the tank or have someone ready. Slowly loosen the straps, but make sure that you remove the front strap first, you want the rear strap loose enough so that you can lower the front of the tank enough to remove the hose from the vent valve, this is very easy to break so be careful. Now the tank is ready to be lowered and removed from the vehicle.
8. To remove the Fuel assembly from the tank you will need a pair of snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring. Once that is off gently pull the assembly out of the tank. You will have to rotate the assembly to allow for the sending unit arm to clear the tank.
9. Now either replace the whole unit or just replace the fuel pump.
10. To reinstall the pump and tank just reverse the order. Just a note: 1. Use dielectric grease on the electrical connection just smear it around the connector; don’t put any ON the end of the connector just around it. And 2. it’s a good idea to grease up the big hoses that have hose claps on them; this makes it a lot easier to stab the tank.
I wish I had pics but when I did this it was like 30 degrees outside.
Eslhockey92g
03-03-2006, 09:46 AM
10. To reinstall the pump and tank just reverse the order. Just a note: 1. Use dielectric grease on the electrical connection just smear it around the connector; don’t put any ON the end of the connector just around it. And 2. it’s a good idea to grease up the big hoses that have hose claps on them; this makes it a lot easier to stab the tank.
I wish I had pics but when I did this it was like 30 degrees outside.
This part kicked my butt when i did it. WHen i was droping the new sending unit in on my 97 blazer the large O-ring didn't wanna work w/ me. I would sit it in the lip of the tank and try to push the unit down, no luck. I tried to hold it to the unit w/o it rolling off, didn't work. every time it would just get crooked and get pinched. What i ended up doing was streching the o-ring just a lil so the unit would drop right in b-4 it would shrink back to its normal size. Did you have the same trouble or was it diff on my body stlye
I wish I had pics but when I did this it was like 30 degrees outside.
This part kicked my butt when i did it. WHen i was droping the new sending unit in on my 97 blazer the large O-ring didn't wanna work w/ me. I would sit it in the lip of the tank and try to push the unit down, no luck. I tried to hold it to the unit w/o it rolling off, didn't work. every time it would just get crooked and get pinched. What i ended up doing was streching the o-ring just a lil so the unit would drop right in b-4 it would shrink back to its normal size. Did you have the same trouble or was it diff on my body stlye
nickledimed
03-03-2006, 11:59 AM
it was the same. but I put grease on the oring and it slid right in...sorry i forgot that part.
also I had my neighbor snap the ring back in while I pressed the pump down.
also I had my neighbor snap the ring back in while I pressed the pump down.
leadalto
03-03-2006, 02:03 PM
it was the same. but I put grease on the oring and it slid right in...sorry i forgot that part.
also I had my neighbor snap the ring back in while I pressed the pump down.
The tank on my 93 S-10 Blazer was completely different. It had a ring that had to be tapped with a mallet and brass rod counterclockwise to remove the pump and clockwise to lock the pump in place. Also, the electrical connector was not removable because the snap ring holding it in place is inside the tank. There are some pics at the following link.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=517321
also I had my neighbor snap the ring back in while I pressed the pump down.
The tank on my 93 S-10 Blazer was completely different. It had a ring that had to be tapped with a mallet and brass rod counterclockwise to remove the pump and clockwise to lock the pump in place. Also, the electrical connector was not removable because the snap ring holding it in place is inside the tank. There are some pics at the following link.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=517321
JoshBarber
04-13-2006, 08:23 AM
I think this should be in the HOW to Section no?
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