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Body work question


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240SXSlideStar
02-21-2006, 09:19 PM
I took the pin stripping off with a heat gun, and it worked rather well, but now the glue is still there, lol, some of it I can scratch off with my nail, but it'll take a year to do it all like that!! Anyone know how I can take the glue off without damaging the paint? Would rubbing compound work? Also, I'm shaving my wing and rear wiper, I grinded the hatch down to the metal and primed it, I'm ganna bondo it this week, I'm ganna put some fiberglass on the underside of the holes before I put the bondo. Anyone have any tips or advice? I'll put pics up when I get this stupid ass fucking program to work...lol

nissan_240sx
02-21-2006, 10:03 PM
I took the pin stripping off with a heat gun, and it worked rather well, but now the glue is still there, lol, some of it I can scratch off with my nail, but it'll take a year to do it all like that!! Anyone know how I can take the glue off without damaging the paint? Would rubbing compound work?

I used GooGone to get mine off


Also, I'm shaving my wing and rear wiper, I grinded the hatch down to the metal and primed it, I'm ganna bondo it this week, I'm ganna put some fiberglass on the underside of the holes before I put the bondo. Anyone have any tips or advice? I'll put pics up when I get this stupid ass fucking program to work...lol


Looks like you got it down lol. Make sure you take your time doing body work and your good to go :)

TatII
02-21-2006, 10:25 PM
you can just use a very light compound and rub it off.

Chuki_breath
02-21-2006, 10:32 PM
yea im used to using an "eraser"...go air tools. Then i just have to wash it from the eraser mark. Its like having a huge power eraser...if only pencils had that lol.

Just take your time. Sand it well. Shouldnt be to hard. I would have bondo'd over the metal then prime, then paint. Use a flat hand when sanding. Dont use fingers. Use a block if you have one, or anything with a flat surface. A paint stick will work fine. Sand at an angle. Dont keep sanding in one spot, it will cause high and low spots, which may cause "waves" in the paint. Which you dont want. You want a nice flat flush flowing surface. But i think you'll be fine, since its small holes. Good luck. I tend to go 80 grit, then 150. Then prime. Then 2000 grit wet sand on primer. If you get a quote on the paint work, it may be a little more than what you would think lol. They have to blend into the quarters. But it shouldnt be expensive or anything. But alot of people think that you only paint the parts that were primed/repaired.........i love those kind of people that bitch and complain and tell you how to do the job lol. Its like well if you knew, why did you drop the car off to begin with lol. Idiots. Then we show them and there like uhh uhhh they're speechless cuz they realize they are stupid.

oh also you may want to outline your rubber surround on the hatch glass with masking tape. Just incase you slip with the sand paper. You dont want to scratch up the surround rubber. It looks all scuffed up and is just one of those mistakes that bugs you for a while until you except it lol.

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