Noobie

I started doing some modeling in the last few months. I think I have done about 5 or so now. I am getting to the point where I want to step up my work. I have been using rattle cans for my painting and I am not thrilled about the way the paint turns out. SO, I am going to get an airbrush to work with. My dad has a couple of them he is gonna let me have, not sure of the brands but knowing my pops they are good ones. I want to know what brand of paint everyone is using and what is the proper way to thin the paint. Also if you have any tricks or tips that you have picked up along the way to make the paint really look good. I would also like to know the trick to making those decals that come with the models look good. I have had mixed results with them.

Oh! Does anyone use a rubbing compund for polishing the paint?

I'm not sitting in front of the models but some of the ones I have done:

'67 Shelby GT-500
'57 Ford Stepside Pickup
'69 Superbee
'05 Mustang GT
1/8 427 HEMI (WIP)

Still in the box:
'04 SVT Ford Focus
'69 Chevy Camaro SS

Thanks in advance for your help!

Oh! Does anyone use a rubbing compund for polishing the paint?

I guess not :wink:

well my only advice is have a look on how to, you'll easily and quickly find all the info you need. All that was discussed thousand times, including brands, so just browse.

I think the better way for you is make you an opinion by tutorials, ask for advices and then just try.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?s=&threadid=59123

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=332711

The first link is a good general painting how-to, though it is geared toward spray cans. I wonder how your paint looks out of a spray can; if you've got the hang of it but it's not perfect then you're well on your way. A lot of the spraying technique is similar. If you're still getting really orange peely paint, then, maybe struggle a little but with cans for a while longer. Or not. Airbrushes and their techniques vary hugely from person to person. Most people here use double action airbrushes and automotive lacquer paints (of one sort or another, whether they are Finisher's, Cobra Colors, or even decanted Tamiya paints) but some people use acrylics for car bodies. Most of the lacquers are already thinned, and acryls will need to be thinned. Thin paint to the thickness of milk (or thereabouts) but it really depends on how you like it. Make sure you use a suitable thinner to thin the paint, too. Acryl thinner will only work with acryls and vice versa. A good rule of thumb is to get thinner made by the same company that made the paint. You can also check the jar to see what kind of paint it is, if you are unsure, and if you are still unsure, ask the hobby shop staff, they tend to be tremendously helpful. Airbrushing isn't hard, but it takes practice more than it takes explanation, unfortunately. Perhaps look for a how-to airbrush models book at your hobby shop.

Decals are tough. They also require a lot of practice, and more patience! I don't know what problems you've had with decals, but this is the sequence I follow: Use a very sharp, new hobby blade to LIGHTLY cut around the decal, as they tend to have way more film than is printed on, so cutting the extra clear film will help the decal look right. I like to cut with the blade not perpendiculer to the paper, but at a slight angle, where the tip of the blade points away from the design; I sort of fancy that this cuts the film at an angle at helps to hide the edges of the decal, though I don't know how much truth there is to that. Once you've LIGHTLY cut the excess film away, cut the decal from the paper by cutting all around the decal. I like to cut as much paper as I can from the sheet so I can manipulate it more easily. Then, I drop the paper and decal into some warmish water for a little while. 30 seconds or a minute or so or however long you find it takes to get the decal to slide off the paper. Don't leave it in so long that decal comes off the paper and floats around in the water on it's own, you've ruined it then. When the decal will slide from the paper, I take it out of the water and place it on a paper towel, to wick away the majority of the water. While it sits, I brush some decal setting solution on the spot I intend to place the decal, if necessary. Then, I hold the paper with tweezers, and use the tip of my finger to slide the decal into place. When it's in place, I wick away a little water, and gently prod the decal into place with half a toothpick with a smoothed tip, and finally wick away the last of the water. The last thing I do is run to another room so the decal can dry unmolested.

Hope this helps.