I have a 1994 Camry that I bought used at about 110K miles. It now has around 115K miles on it. I read that a timing belt should be replaced around every 60K miles and the water pump should also be replaced, but I do not know the mileage. I'm the third owner of this car and have all the records from the previous owner. They never replaced the timing belt or the water pump. I don't have any records from the first owner, so I don't know if they replaced the belt or pump.

I wanted to know does either the timing belt or water pump show any signs before failing or do they just stop working? Also, is there a way to check for wear? My mechanic doesn't perform this type of work and suggested I go to the dealer. I don't trust either one of the major dealers in my area as I have been ripped off by both. ( I guess that why I buy from private owners.)

The car runs great and I want to keep it maintained, but don't want to get robbed by dealer servicing in the process.

Any help is appreciated. Thank you!

I have a 1994 Camry that I bought used at about 110K miles. It now has around 115K miles on it. I read that a timing belt should be replaced around every 60K miles and the water pump should also be replaced, but I do not know the mileage. I'm the third owner of this car and have all the records from the previous owner. They never replaced the timing belt or the water pump. I don't have any records from the first owner, so I don't know if they replaced the belt or pump.

I wanted to know does either the timing belt or water pump show any signs before failing or do they just stop working? Also, is there a way to check for wear? My mechanic doesn't perform this type of work and suggested I go to the dealer. I don't trust either one of the major dealers in my area as I have been ripped off by both. ( I guess that why I buy from private owners.)

The car runs great and I want to keep it maintained, but don't want to get robbed by dealer servicing in the process.

Any help is appreciated. Thank you!
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120k is a major service interval.
Sorry, don't know any way other than doing your own work to avoid paying high prices to the dealer service department, unless you can find a well qualified independent mechanic.
At 120k on mine, I found both idler pulleys made noise when turned by hand, there was seepage at the oil pan gasket, and transmission pan gasket. Since I do my own labor, I make it a policy to change the valve cover gasket, idlers, water pump and all the front seals along with the timing belt. Also learned to change the axles as the boots were cracking. None of this is really difficult on the four cylinder if you learn the special tools and procedures required.
My list:
Major Servicing: 120,124 miles:
Replace: timing belt, crankshaft oil seal, oil pump oil seal, oil pump O-ring, camshaft oil seal, idler bearing, idler tensioner bearing, timing cover gasket set, valve cover gasket, ck valve clearances, PCV valve, PCV valve grommet, oil cap gasket, distributor O-ring, distributor cap, rotor, distributor packing, spark plug wires, spark plugs, fuel filter, air filter, ck. battery, oil pan gasket, transmission pan gasket, water pump, thermostat, radiator cap, gas cap, differential service, engine moving control rod, accessory drive belts: power steering pump, A/C - alternator, alternator brushes, ck. chassis mounting bolt torque, set ignition timing
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The timing belt doesn't give any pre-failure warning signs, but if you just drive until it breaks, chances are you'll get a lot further than 60,000 miles. That's a conservative change interval to avoid break downs.
From what I hear, the water pump usually starts leaking slowly, so you would have time to change it before complete failure.
The idea is, you know these items are required, so you plan, save up, and budget for them in advance.
At that age and mileage, most all the seals harden that's why I also changed the distributor O ring.
Alternator brushes were a preventative measure. apx. $16 for parts.
Same with the engine moving control rod "dog bone" - just had slight cracking.
Same with the accessory drive belts - p.s. and a/c - looked fine, but just changed them with new since they had to come off anyway.
I think you should always change the crankshaft and oil pump oil seals with the timing belt. Parts are very reasonably priced and they're right in front of you when doing the work. The cam seal should last longer, since the cam rotates at half engine speed, but I changed it also. Seemed like all of these were beginning to show signs of seepage though perhaps not dripping yet.
Now the entire engine stays spotlessly clean.
'94 Camry is a very durable car, so to me, makes sense to make it last.