Check Engine Light-Code P0401


DWils29
02-15-2006, 03:03 PM
:banghead: HELP! 2 years ago the "check engine" light came on in my 2000 Toyota RAV 4. Code comes up as P0401 (EGR valve). Had EGR valved cleaned (possible carbon build up) no change. Replaced EGR valve. Light still comes on. I have been living with this for 2 years. I need to get this taken care of. Any ideas??

Brian R.
02-15-2006, 07:17 PM
Welcome to the AF!

Fault: After the engine is warmed up, the intake manifold absolute pressure is larger than the value calculated by the ECM while the EGR system is ON (2 trip detection logic)

Possible Problems
EGR valve stuck closed <= Most common Clean EGR valve (Done)
EGR Vacuum Switching Valve (VSV)
Open or short in VSV circuit for EGR
EGR valve position sensor open or short circuit
Vacuum or EGR hose disconnected
EGR valve position sensor
Manifold absolute pressure sensor malfunction
ECM

56470
03-02-2006, 04:40 AM
To reset the "Check Engine" light - take out the EFI fuse for about three seconds and then reinsert

CavieDad
12-28-2006, 10:48 AM
I had the Check Engine light stay on when the gas cap was not on tightly. A few months later the light came back on and the dealership changed the exhaust manifold- thankfully just before the factory warranty expired.

prashanu
01-04-2007, 08:22 PM
I have a TOyota Camry 98, and a P0401 code. I had it checked at Auto zone and they mentioned I needed a new EGR valve, I bought one and got it fixed for $200 but, the engine light came back.

Now I am in a desperate situation, where i need the car fixed for taking it through inspection.

I live in WIlmington, Delaware area, and have the option of taking the car to Pepboys, Meineke, midas ( the likes) or the dealer or a local mechanic. Can anyone from their experience give a suggestion on what would be a good choice...


Thanks for your help in advance.
P

Brian R.
01-04-2007, 08:51 PM
Did you check the function of the other systems I listed in my first post?

prashanu
01-04-2007, 09:03 PM
I am not too much of a do-it-myself guy,, and so would need to take my car to a repair shop... would like any recommendation on a reliable mechanic... or any other suggestions ....Thanks

autotech101
01-04-2007, 09:03 PM
:banghead: HELP! 2 years ago the &quot;check engine&quot; light came on in my 2000 Toyota RAV 4. Code comes up as P0401 (EGR valve). Had EGR valved cleaned (possible carbon build up) no change. Replaced EGR valve. Light still comes on. I have been living with this for 2 years. I need to get this taken care of. Any ideas??
makes suer ther is no vacum leakes. The most probable causr for this cobe is the intake having one or two blocked ports

prashanu
01-05-2007, 09:01 AM
Any suggestions on a reliable mechanic to fix this problem (P0401)... Also, can any one give me an idea on the cost of getting this problem fixed...like i said before I have already spent $200 on replacing an EGR valve without any luck...thanks

Brian R.
01-05-2007, 12:21 PM
Get recommendations on a reliable and honest mechanic from coworkers or neighbors.

cardriver
05-08-2007, 08:40 PM
i had the same problem... same code... etc. it kicked my butt for a while, until i got a ticket for no inspection. so i guess that got me into action to fix it. and believe me, i have searched and searched online for fixes. it was the vsv (vaccum switching something or other). it is just a little plastic vaccum switch that connects to the egr valve. sounds easy enough, here's the hard part.

it's located underneath the intake manifold, connected by one bolt holding it onto the motor. yes, i know the intake manifold is right at the firewall, with no access on either side. i read one guy's claim that he had to take a wheel off, disconnect this and that, and move it out of the way, then you have access to get an arm in there. i did it a different way.

if you can get under your rav4 (im a bit skinney, so i didn't need to lift it, but i did have trouble getting my arms/hands into certain positions because of the clearance). i can't recall if i had more splash shielding underneath, so you may have to remove some of the plastic underneath, to access the vsv. looking straight up behind the motor (you have to look through part of the framing that is in between the wheels), you will see two small hoses running to a little plastic switch. the hard part is trying to get BOTH hands in there to work properly. i used a ratchet with a small extension, and i had one hell of a time trying to break it loose, while keeping a good grip on the bolt. that's the hardest part: getting enough room to work properly. i did eventually get both hands in working range of the bolt, but it took a tries at different angles. TAKE YOUR TIME REMOVING THE BOLT THAT HOLDS THE VSV IN PLACE - IT WILL ROUND OFF ON YOU IN A SECOND!

the part is around $100 at your local toyota dealer.

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