I need help with a car I am working on. Everytime i turn on the ignition the AM2 30A fuse blows. I would appreciate it very much if anyone could give any suggestions or inform me as to how to fix it. Thank you.

I have the same exact problem except in a 93 Camry. It has a factory alarm system and nothings been changed lately. Any help would be appreciated.

Have you downloaded the schematics that come with the Camry manuals listed at the top of the Camry forum? Looks like this "Important 94 and 02 Camry manuals....." The 94 manual should work for both of you since 92-96 Camrys are all generation 3. You'll need Adobe Reader (they are PDF files). These aren't the skimpy Haynes schematics either. They appear to be factory spec manuals.

Just a quick glance tells me ignition switch, battery, starter, starter relay, ECM, fuel injectors, or coils could be the culprit.

Yes, I went through them also. How can I test the injectors? Thanks :)

Anyone? Anyone?

Never done it. Procedure should be in the manual mentioned.

The AM2 fuse 30Amp is for the main ignition...that means either the short is in the ignition harness or it is around the distributor (5sfe only) or bad ignitor (either 5sfe or 1mz).

What engine do you have?

Did you install a remote starter?

Thank you csaxon. Its a 5SFE and doesnt have a remote starter, but it does have a factory alarm system. Its possibly in the ignition harness cuz I havent taken the steering column apart yet. The distributor could do this also? Ill check that out too.

It WAS the distributor, csaxon, and its fixed now. Thank you very much for the pointers gents, I sure appreciate it!

Great! Glad to see you run a diagnosis instead of throwing parts at Check Engine Light trouble codes.

Good Luck.

Actually it was probably not the "distributor" but the condenser in it that was bad. It is $4 at the dealer. For a 92 Camry it is part #19133-16240. Takes 1 day to come in. Get the o-ring too, its cheap and usually in stock.

It is the little can attached with a brown wire to the (+) left side of coil.

Mine was melted at the top and was shorted, as descibed by bmaintz in another post, this week at 334,000 miles.

I know there is mention of the condenser in the FAQ but I think it is not given enough weight there.
I post this to help save people money since this fix seems to get overlooked and people drop $140 instead of $4.

Actually it was probably not the "distributor" but the condenser in it that was bad. It is $4 at the dealer. For a 92 Camry it is part #19133-16240. Takes 1 day to come in. Get the o-ring too, its cheap and usually in stock.

It is the little can attached with a brown wire to the (+) left side of coil.

Mine was melted at the top and was shorted, as descibed by bmaintz in another post, this week at 334,000 miles.

I know there is mention of the condenser in the FAQ but I think it is not given enough weight there.
I post this to help save people money since this fix seems to get overlooked and people drop $140 instead of $4.

I have the same problem as described, but I have the car at a shop. I told the Boss about the condenser and he says that he disconnected the harness at the distributer (along with alot of other stuff) and the fuse still blows. That seems logical to me, do you folks agree?

He needs to track down the short.
The igniter and injectors come off it too.
If not in the distributor it is likely a bad wire along the way.
I am assuming he took off both connectors when he said the harness and a lot of stuff.
And unplugged the igniter.
Can't think of anything other than to take it one step at a time from the AM2.
Mice have a lot of fun inside engine compartments, gnawing on everything.
Let us know what it was.

He needs to track down the short.
The igniter and injectors come off it too.
If not in the distributor it is likely a bad wire along the way.
I am assuming he took off both connectors when he said the harness and a lot of stuff.
And unplugged the igniter.
Can't think of anything other than to take it one step at a time from the AM2.
Mice have a lot of fun inside engine compartments, gnawing on everything.
Let us know what it was.

It was the condenser. And I cannot thank this site and all that contribute enough because if not for this I'd still be waiting. The boss at the shop seems to think that the original problem was in the harness somewhere and they cleared that but never bothered to "re-test". So when I came along and went right to the distributor and found the condenser as the trouble he felt the condenser was "fried" due to all their testing. Who knows, but the $4 part fixed the problem. The hard part was getting the condenser out and the new one in without removing the coil. But it can be done using perserverance, needlenose pliers, and a few choice cursewords.

After they put the dash and components together under the hood, the Air bag light stays on, so I'll check that out when it's warm outside.

Regarding this problem overall, I will point out that when calling around to get the condenser ALL parts counter people said there is no condenser, and then when they found it in their computer, they said that's not the trouble. So I'd venture to say that many distributors are sold when it's just a component. Times have changed I guess. (I'm 59 and remember when cars were simpler)

One last question: would the car have started without a condenser being installed?

Again, thanks for the information and help. Have a Great Christmas & New Year!
Ron

Should start fine without condenser. Others have just snipped the wire and had no noise in the radio.
I would only recommend that if condenser is not available, like side of the road.
As I posted above, just go to Toyota to get it if no one knows what you are asking for. It is about the same price.
Glad that was it.