Now a lot of you guys said it enough times that removing the starter is easy...i thought i would give it a shot.

I followed the instructions on
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/13/e2/1e/0900823d8013e21e.jsp

I got stuck at point 4.

It says to remove the bolt to remove the starter cable. Ok fine. Then i can also disconnect the starter wire on top of that. What does it mean by "Disconnect the electrical connector also located on the magnetic switch" ??

Now i didn't go more than this because there was no way i could remove the starter. I have attached the pic.

First of all the actuator (2) is in the way. There is nothing i can do about it.
Then the cable (1) takes all the space.

Even if i can get my hands beneath them, there is no way i could reach to the screw corresponding to (3) on the other side of the starter. I mean i couldn't even see it... i dont know how i would be able to do it.

Any help would be appreciated. I am a newbie at all this... :)

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/tarunkapoor2000/detail?.dir=1dba&.dnm=9f79scd.jpg&.src=ph

Tk Neo,

This is really pretty easy. You can use the generation 3 manual at the top of this forum for reference. It is in section ST-Starting System.

If you are having trouble, remove the battery cables (negative first), the battery hold down, the battery tray and the cruise control cover and then the plate holding down the cruise control and push it out of the way. You don't have to disconnect any of the cables going in or out of the cruise control. If you need more room to reach things (I didn't on my wife's 98 4 cylinder), remove the air cleaner box cover, the air filter and then the air cleaner housing itself (there are bolts inside at the bottom of the housing). You will have to disconnect that big hose coming out of the air box but that's real easy. If your car was delivered in a cold weather climate, then the nut (not a bolt) holding down the starter cable from the battery is probably on the back side (side closest to the firewall) of the starter. I found that out when working on my wife's 98. It makes removal and reinstallation a bit harder, but still doable. I believe it's covered by a little rubber boot to protect anything metal from coming in contact with it; after all, it's really the positive lead from the battery. The other electrical connector is just a modular male/female connector. Look around for it when everything is out of the way. I'm sure you will find it. From there it's just a matter of removing the 2 bolts holding the starter itself in to the car. I believe they are 14mm, but I don't remember for sure. You will need a socket and about a 6 inch extension. Once the bolts are removed, just pull the starter out and then up to clear everything.

It really isn't hard. You just have to remove everything in the way to get to things. Just take your time.

Reinstallation is the reverse of everything. Just remember to attach the negative battery cable last.

Mike

PS: I just looked at the instructions you were referring to on the Autozone site. They are pretty good instructions. I think by magnetic switch they mean the solenoid portion of the starter.

Mike: thanks for the detailed reply. Really appreciate it.

Have a few questions:
1. This is about removing the 2 bolts using which the starter is mounted. One of them is (3) in the picture. right ??

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/tarunkapoor2000/detail?.dir=1dba&.dnm=9f79scd.jpg&.src=ph

And the second one is on the back side of the starter right? I was wondering with that big hose on top of the starter (shown in the pic) how would i be able to reach for it ?

Is there something wrong in my logic above ?

2. Can you please give a link that shows pictures on how to remove the air filter box and the hose.

Thanks!!

Mike: thanks for the detailed reply. Really appreciate it.

Have a few questions:
1. This is about removing the 2 bolts using which the starter is mounted. One of them is (3) in the picture. right ??

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/tarunkapoor2000/detail?.dir=1dba&.dnm=9f79scd.jpg&.src=ph

And the second one is on the back side of the starter right? I was wondering with that big hose on top of the starter (shown in the pic) how would i be able to reach for it ?

Is there something wrong in my logic above ?

2. Can you please give a link that shows pictures on how to remove the air filter box and the hose.

Thanks!!



Tk_Neo,

I just took another look at your picture and you are correct. It is the one by the number 3. I did check on my 94 5SFE engine and it is a 14MM hex. You can actually reach that one with a combination wrench from the front. The back one will have to be removed with a socket and an extension.

As far as the air box, once you remove the cover and the air filter you will see the bolts in the bottom of the box that hold the box to the fender. They will really be obvious. Just take a look. The air box can be removed to give you more access to removing the starter once everything is unbolted. You probably can wrestle it out without removing it, but everything will be more visible once it is out of the way and it will be much easier to remove from the engine bay. Sorry, I can't think of any pictures.

Keep at it. You will get it out. Once you get it out, putting it back in will probably take you 15 or 20 minutes.

Mike

Tk_Neo,

Have you had any luck in removing the starter?

Mike

Mike,

I am not able to get starter contacts :) Went to a toyota dealer today only to find out that no dealer in the entire minnesota has em. Hard luck :) Had to order it. Will take 4 days. Have to wait until then and just keep my fingers crosses.

No quicker way of getting it right ?

You could just opt to take the starter out and find an electrical auto rebuilder in your area. Take the starter to them and have it completely rebuilt. It should run about $125. That's what I did last Fall when the starter in my wife's 98 was acting as your's did. Personally, I think you get a better rebuild that way, when compared to getting an off the shelf rebuilt unit from an auto parts store. Price is around the same either way. You could find one of these places and see if they have the contacts and will sell you them to you. As long as I went through the trouble of removing the starter and having to reinstall it, I wanted to have the entire unit rebuilt at around 90,000 miles. Cheap insurance in my book. Check the yellow pages or ask auto techs you might know if they can recommend any one.

Mike

Mike i was able to take the starter out. At one point i thought of removing the filter box but that seemed to be much more work.

An extension helped me get to the bolt in the back of the starter. And the extension gave me that extra torque. However the hardest part was after that. It was real tricky to get the starter out of that place. There were pipes and hoses all over the place. The car seems to be working perfect right now. i have posted the details in the other thread on "car won't crank"

Mike, Thanks so much for all the help. really appreciated.

Mike i was able to take the starter out. At one point i thought of removing the filter box but that seemed to be much more work.

An extension helped me get to the bolt in the back of the starter. And the extension gave me that extra torque. However the hardest part was after that. It was real tricky to get the starter out of that place. There were pipes and hoses all over the place. The car seems to be working perfect right now. i have posted the details in the other thread on "car won't crank"

Mike, Thanks so much for all the help. really appreciated.


You are welcome. Glad it all worked out for you.

Mike