:grinno:
I recently posted a thread about my DRL indicator being out. I figured it might be just the bulb, and having to remove the cluster to replace it, I figured "Hey Mike, you always wanted a Tach, why not buy a salvage yard unit and try it?"
So I did. I picked up a '95 4 LT door unit (Mine is a '97 2 door LS)

I searched everywhere, including the GM parts catalog to find out what the OEM p/n was. Turns out any 95-97 S10/S15 p/u or Blazer/Jimmy dash would work. Some knuclehead on ebay told me a '98 unit would fit, but they're more rounded than the squareish units of 95-97. (Turns out only 98-2000 are interchangeable).

It took me all of 45 minutes to remove and replace the boneyard unit ($60.00), and low and behold; it WORKS. YIPEEEEE.:grinyes:

Now, does anybody know how to turn back the digits on the odometer. The unit I got has 158K on it, while my truck only has 46k.

i wanted to do the same thing but i dont want to mess with the odometer can you swich them or are they not close

i wanted to do the same thing but i dont want to mess with the odometer can you swich them or are they not close

They are interchangeable. Each cluster unit has its own odometer. I'm still working on dis-assembling my old unit to figure out how to adjust the miles. When I figure it out, I'll make that info available.

Lol this has the makings of one of them shady car dealers turning back the clocks.In this case i wouldnt see no harm because your trying to get your mileage write. Is the tach dead on too?

Lol this has the makings of one of them shady car dealers turning back the clocks.In this case i wouldnt see no harm because your trying to get your mileage write. Is the tach dead on too?

I will keep this truck for quite some time, so no shady stuff intended.
(After 10 years in my home State, you don't have to record milage when you sell the vehicle anyway) I'm going to try changing out the odometer wheels between the two units.
Plus that, I only have 46k miles on a 9 year old truck. My wife freaked when she saw 158,000 miles on the replacement unit.:eek:
As far as acuracy goes, the speedo seems about right. I don't know about the tach because I never had one in this truck before. It reads a little under 2000rpm @ 60mph, and idles at 800 rpm. So I feel comfortable with those readings.

your obdII smarter then you think computer will not like you changeing the mileage, in fact, your a lucky one, you got a cluster out of a truck with the same prom number you have, otherwise it wouldnt work at all (so were told, not a body man, never had a reason to do it)

your obdII smarter then you think computer will not like you changeing the mileage, in fact, your a lucky one, you got a cluster out of a truck with the same prom number you have, otherwise it wouldnt work at all (so were told, not a body man, never had a reason to do it)

Luckily for me, 95-97s have mechanical wheel odometers, not digital like 98s and newer.

Edit;
I ended up swapping the head units between the 2 clusters today, so I now have my original miles showing.
Took me about 1.5 hours to dis-assemble both units and get everything back together. IHad to remove the plastic/glass cover, then pry out the gauge units, remove a circuit board from the back, then exchange the heads. No wheel turning required.
Got the tach needle off by about 100rpm, and the volt meter is off by about 1.5volts, but I save readjusments for another day.

Sounds good. Nice work.Now can we get a picture.

Here's some cell phone pictures I took.
Not very clear, but you get the idea.

Here's the original unit out of the dash and sitting on top of the dash.
I had already swapped the odometer unit;
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/11/web/695000-695999/695626_20_full.jpg


Here's the replacement unit installed and running,
The green light is the DRL indicator;
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/11/web/695000-695999/695626_21_full.jpg

Here's some cell phone pictures I took.
Not very clear, but you get the idea.

Here's the original unit out of the dash and sitting on top of the dash.
I had already swapped the odometer unit;
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/11/web/695000-695999/695626_20_full.jpg


Here's the replacement unit installed and running,
The green light is the DRL indicator;
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/11/web/695000-695999/695626_21_full.jpg


I attempted the same thing in my 97, I found a cluster w/ a tach on ebay. After doing some homework i found that the pin for the tach is on the harness to my cluster now w/o a tach. So i bought it, put it in and everything work BUT the tach was way of. When i would drive under normal light acceleration when my tranny whould shift the tach registered at about 5500 Rpm. I knew it was closer to 3500 Rpm. I took it out and found out it was ripped out of a 4 cyl truck. My car having a 6cly, and the new cluster was looking for a 4cyl pulse from the ign pack, but it was reciving a 6cly so it was reading to many pulses wicth caused it to be off of caluibration. If anyone knows if im able to fix this that would be great i really wanna have an OEM look w/ a tach. I was just gonna buy another one off ebay that did come out of a 6cyl in the summer

This is what my friend has been looking to do in his sonoma but he has a 97 with digital miles.So till he finds way to tinker with it,no tach for him

I attempted the same thing in my 97, I found a cluster w/ a tach on ebay. After doing some homework i found that the pin for the tach is on the harness to my cluster now w/o a tach. So i bought it, put it in and everything work BUT the tach was way of. When i would drive under normal light acceleration when my tranny whould shift the tach registered at about 5500 Rpm. I knew it was closer to 3500 Rpm. I took it out and found out it was ripped out of a 4 cyl truck. My car having a 6cly, and the new cluster was looking for a 4cyl pulse from the ign pack, but it was reciving a 6cly so it was reading to many pulses wicth caused it to be off of caluibration. If anyone knows if im able to fix this that would be great i really wanna have an OEM look w/ a tach. I was just gonna buy another one off ebay that did come out of a 6cyl in the summer

Here's an ebay link to a unit I was thinking about buying as a back-up unit.
I didn't destroy mine when I replaced the odometer wheels, so have at it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevy-Blazer-S10-Sonoma-Speedometer-Cluster-1995-10K_W0QQitemZ8036788407QQcategoryZ33678QQrdZ1QQcmd ZViewItem

so does this all connect up to the wires i already have or do i have to run wires to make it work

so does this all connect up to the wires i already have or do i have to run wires to make it work

Direct replacement, no wire mods required. Wiring already exists in factory harness.

so any adjustments yet?

so any adjustments yet?

Took the glass cover off without removing the unit Sunday, with the truck running I repositioned the Volt meter and Tach needle. Now idles at 750rpm. Speedometer seems to be correct, haven't been pulled over for speeding yet.15 minute job. :icon16:

Direct replacement, no wire mods required. Wiring already exists in factory harness.

Sweet! I'm gonna put a tach in my 96... If all is well the only thing I'll have to change is the mile reader? Can I just take the one from mine and put it the tach one I buy?

Sweet! I'm gonna put a tach in my 96... If all is well the only thing I'll have to change is the mile reader? Can I just take the one from mine and put it the tach one I buy?

You sure can. See post #7 on the first page of this thread. It explains how to swap the odometer.

I understand the desire to retain the factory look . I looked for a factory unit in junk yards . But ended up going rough and redneck by mounting gauges and switches all over the dash . Rob

Lol yes rough and redneck. I got a guy trying to get me a gauge pillar and the way the mechanic keeps going i keep needing more and more.

I have a new cluster coming to me in the mail now. I the odometer is only gonna be about 9,000 miles more than what i'm at now. I'm not sure if thats a big enough deal to try to hasle with but if i do, what did you use to pry the Neddles off, I'm sure there easy to snap. And i'm guessing you just pop the needles of and pull the black background off and its pretty self explanitory from there to swap the odometers from there

Edit;
I ended up swapping the head units between the 2 clusters today, so I now have my original miles showing.
Took me about 1.5 hours to dis-assemble both units and get everything back together. IHad to remove the plastic/glass cover, then pry out the gauge units, remove a circuit board from the back, then exchange the heads. No wheel turning required.
Got the tach needle off by about 100rpm, and the volt meter is off by about 1.5volts, but I save readjusments for another day.[/QUOTE]

I have a new cluster coming to me in the mail now. I the odometer is only gonna be about 9,000 miles more than what i'm at now. I'm not sure if thats a big enough deal to try to hasle with but if i do, what did you use to pry the Neddles off, I'm sure there easy to snap. And i'm guessing you just pop the needles of and pull the black background off and its pretty self explanitory from there to swap the odometers from there


You don't need to remove the needles, or the face cover either. But if you do, the needles just pull straight off. I replaced the needles on the donor unit because they were faded, while my original needles still look new.
Here's what you do. Remove the glass cover from the front of the cluster (4 screws). Next, the clear plastic cover that the gauges are mounted to is push-fitted into the plastic housing of the cluster. I evenly pried around all the edges of this plastic cover to get it out. You'll notice that all the gauges (4) have round pins that compression fit into sockets on the cluster housing. Once you get this clear plastic cover out, you remove the circuit board from the back of the gauges (2 small screws), then you can remove the odometer (3 screws) Very simple proceedure.
If you want to PM me before you do the swap, I can e-mail a bunch of cell phone pictures showing you exactly how to do it.

Or since its only like 9K off just wait to you get in that neighborhood and from now to then practice taking off the cluster so you know how to do it.

Yea that doesn't sound to bad, I'll have the cluster this week, and while i wait for the time to do it i'm ordering LEDS to put in that as well I just did it this weekend w/ mine now just to see what happens, and it looks awesome I'm gonna try to put a pic up on the HOW_TO the rilth put up.

s-10 blazerman- haha Yea I have had the cluster out a few times already but this weekend i did the led conversion and it didn't work and was able to rip it out and but it back in, in about 5 min including putting the large dash trim back on. but noble idea ither way

Lol yeh cuz my friend saw this the other day and he goes Shawn thats our next project and im like , "You know for us this wont be easy because nothing is with your Sonoma lol. Then he goes im doing the LEDS too." LOL

These previous posts have pretty much answered all my questions about what i'm wanting to do. I didn't realize it was that easy, otherwise i would have done it a while ago. I do have a problem though. last summer i fried speed calibrator circuit in the computer. and ended up driving around for about 2 weeks waiting on a payday so i could go in to have it fixed. before i even did that, i replaced the gauge cluster with a difference of like some 25K or something. I dont remember exactly. is there a way of figuring out what the true milage really is by hooking up a scan tool to the obdII system or something, or am i flat out of luck cuz i dont have the original cluster anymore? not that its a big deal to me, but i'd atleast like it to read a little more true than be completely off.

this thread is almost a year old. please refrain from posting in old threads. start a new thread with a link to this one if need be.