'94 Rodeo A/T probs. Computer?

Hi all... I have a '94 Rodeo, 3.2SOHC with automatic. Has 240K miles, regular services, no major probs except a plugged radiator 1 1/2 years back.

Was doing some work and disconected the battery for about 30 mins. and when re-connected the "Check Transmission" light came on.

Trans won't shift now... Seems as if in Winter Mode, but I disconnected the switch (hoping switch was bad) but no difference. (Shifts (up to 3, but not down) and runs OK manually...

Local trans guy friend (who has NEVER seen an ISUZU), says he pulled a #51 code, but doesn't have a clue what that is.

Any help here?

Thanks in advance,
Jim

check your body grounds.

check your body grounds.


Thanks for the quick response... What/where would I be looking for? Is there a general ground strap that goes from the trans to the frame? Or am I looking for a specific ground to a switch and/or module?
JM

If you have full range of gears (PRND321) by shifting with the floor shifter, you have an trans electrical concern. Most common fault is with the trans range sensor. You will know it's the TRS if the PRND321 lights on the dash (if so equipped?) dont line up with what you have selected with the floor shifter. We've got alittle research going on here (here we go Ramblinfever :uhoh: ) Are you the original owner of your rodeo? do you know if it's the original trans? Thanks.

Joel

If you have full range of gears (PRND321) by shifting with the floor shifter, you have an trans electrical concern. Most common fault is with the trans range sensor. You will know it's the TRS if the PRND321 lights on the dash (if so equipped?) dont line up with what you have selected with the floor shifter. We've got alittle research going on here (here we go Ramblinfever :uhoh: ) Are you the original owner of your rodeo? do you know if it's the original trans? Thanks.

Joel

Hi there... Thanks for jumping in here.

I DO have a full range of gears on the UP-shift. Not so on the down-shift.... No 2nd. (Also... NO cruise Control and NO back up Lights. Not cerrtain if related.)

Car does NOT have indicator lights on dash.

I am NOT the origional owner, but car came with detailed service records so I am confident that it IS the origional trans.

I agree that problem is electrical... was running fine until I disconected battery, When I re-connected, the Check light came on and problem started.

Isuzu once issued a tech bulletin related to problems with the "Winter Mode" switch, (that was first thought, as it wants to take off in 3rd), and said to check the switch by un-plugging... I DID, no difference.

JM

Code 51 could mean a bunch of stuff :uhoh: . Check here: http://www.troublecodes.net/isuzu/iszucel.shtml I'd start by verifying 14VDC across the battery terminals with the truck running, then like Ryan says, check your grounds. The really wierd thing you are describing is being able to manually shift into 2nd while accelerating, but you can't get it on the decel?

Joel

Code 51 could mean a bunch of stuff :uhoh: . Check here: http://www.troublecodes.net/isuzu/iszucel.shtml I'd start by verifying 14VDC across the battery terminals with the truck running, then like Ryan says, check your grounds. The really wierd thing you are describing is being able to manually shift into 2nd while accelerating, but you can't get it on the decel?

Joel

Thanks again... As I stated I have 1-2 & 3 going up... But there is NO difference between 3 and "D".

From "D" on down shift, nothing happens until you get to "L".

If I try to take off in 2,3 or "D", it's all the same... Just like "winter mode".

No "kick-down" or "passing mode".

The "Power" light come on/goes off when the switch is pushed, as does the "winter" light, but, other than the indicator lights, nothing else seems to be happening.

I'll check the voltage when I get back home, but it's been a couple of weeks now and it starts and runs fine so it does not seem to be running low on juice.

Any hints regarding what I'm to look for in the way of "body grounds"? This thing seems to have ground wires all over the place that have funny plastic tabs on them... (Oh, how I long for the good old days when we had a nice flat braided copper strap!) (... and 14 year old cars were "jalopies" and long retired by 150K miles!) <GRIN> )

JM

(Oh, how I long for the good old days when we had a nice flat braided copper strap!) (... and 14 year old cars were "jalopies" and long retired by 150K miles!) <GRIN> )

amen to that. plastic on an engine..who'da thunk it???

Any hints regarding what I'm to look for in the way of "body grounds"? This thing seems to have ground wires all over the place that have funny plastic tabs on them...

you can start by changing out the big 3...

Big 3 - This entails replacing 3 wires under the hood with bigger ones
Battery ground to chassis
Battery ground to engine block
Battery positive to alternator (careful - often times it is routed thru the under hood fuse block)

make them bigger guage wires. this helps somewhat..and looks cool.

then there are several straps on and around the engine, some are fun to get to....:uhoh:

We've got a little research going on here (here we go Ramblinfever :uhoh: ) Are you the original owner of your rodeo? do you know if it's the original trans? Thanks.
Joel

:wink: :rofl:

:wink: :rofl:

Must be an inside joke... but NO and YES.
JM

Let's just say I have a history of being a bit paranoid about things; and get excited hearing from other owners who actually have more miles then myself on original equipment.

There's not too many owners out there - on this forum anyway, that have more miles then I do.

Let's just say I have a history of being a bit paranoid about things; and get excited hearing from other owners who actually have more miles then myself on original equipment.

There's not too many owners out there - on this forum anyway, that have more miles then I do.

AhHa! Well, REGULAR service DOES work.

I bought the car about 3 years ago after my 4-Runner was stolen... The previous owner was an aerospace engineer with a 60 mi. each-way daily commute... (NOT uncommon here in the SoCalif area. BTW) He also had a cabin up in the Sierras (350 miles away) that they went to often for skiing/boating and such.

The dealership, SAnta Ana Isuzu, used to offer a "Happy Car Special". For $29.95 you got an oil change + filter, lube, tire rotation and a wash. He took the car in EVERY MONTH! (They SOLD out, and the new dealership does NOT offer the package, DRAT!)

In addition, it had ALL of it's "interval" services. (I got a whole file box of service records... Looking through them last night I saw where there were some cooling probs. early on, and it looks like a head-gasket was changed.)

He even washed the engine and compatrment every week with SimpleGreen... This car is 12 years old and everyone who has ever looked under the hood takes it for new.

I have kept up with the oil changes and stuff and YES, I DO still wash the engine.

(In writing this, I realize that I have never changed the tranny fluid, beyond the 3 qts. or-so that you get when you drop the pan and change the filter.)

About a year and a half ago I had some overheating probs. and changed out the water pump, and clutch fan (and went ahead and did timing belt, and all new hoses and belts), only to find out that it WAS a plugged radiator. (Incidentally, Amigo_2K pointed me to that FIRST, but I thought, "Nah, couldn't be, look how clean the coolant looks"...)

I build and maintain trails out in the back-country, so the truck sees a LOT of off-road use, tho' not too often in 4wd.

I've added 2 sets of Cibie lights, (fog and driving beam), a CalMini air intake/filter, a hot-rod-wiz-bang turbo exhaust, and since she was drooping in the rear when loaded with trail tools and camping stuff (or when pulling my trailer), some longer Downey Off-Road, rear spring shackles from my Toyota that I still had in the garage. (... and I took a few cranks on the front T-Bars and added a set of Bilsteins.) I just switched from BFG all-terrains to Pirelli Scorpions, and I love them! (ON-Highway (quiet) and Off... Off, is mostly sandy or flinty rock and mostly DRY.)

Hope I can get this dang tranny issue fixed... I love this truck!

Jim

You've taken EXCELLENT care of that rig.

It's really sad that most don't even care to wash the engine - I too wash my engine, but not every week, it gets washed every 2 weeks in the winter and in the summer it just depends on how many dusty roads I've gone down.

But I'm really good about never having gotten mud or anything of the likes in the engine bay.

Question for you, how many miles would you say you got out of your radiator? I'm trying to decide if I should just go ahead, for safety sake, and change it out this summer - it does have 153k. I do have it flushed every year, but we have a Toyota truck that the 1st radiator had a blockage at 199k and blew the headgasket, taking the engine with it.

Then the 2nd headgasket blew on that same truck just earlier this month - so we're a bit paranoid with the Rodeo in not wanting the same fate.

I'm the original owner and it's never overheated, and I have the tranny flushed every 30k miles. Wish I had more faith in just dropping the pan, and doing it that way, but I'm a bit leary of not adding the right amount.

How often do you drop your tranny pan?

From "D" on down shift, nothing happens until you get to "L".

If I try to take off in 2,3 or "D", it's all the same... Just like "winter mode".

No "kick-down" or "passing mode".


JM

All the rodeos I've dealt with have "PRND321" No "L". (not that familiar with the early 1990 models) It sounds like you are not getting 4th (AKA- "D" or "OD") or torque converter lockup, but most AT's wont go into 4th or lock the TC until the engine is up to operating temp. Once you verify proper operating voltage (14VDC), I'd then look into the TRS.

Joel

Oops! I take that back! :disappoin The 1998+ DO have "L" for 1st. Just got out of my 2002. PRND32L staring me right in the face for the past 4yrs :grinno: .

Joel

You've taken EXCELLENT care of that rig.

It's really sad that most don't even care to wash the engine - I too wash my engine, but not every week, it gets washed every 2 weeks in the winter and in the summer it just depends on how many dusty roads I've gone down.

But I'm really good about never having gotten mud or anything of the likes in the engine bay.

Question for you, how many miles would you say you got out of your radiator? I'm trying to decide if I should just go ahead, for safety sake, and change it out this summer - it does have 153k. I do have it flushed every year, but we have a Toyota truck that the 1st radiator had a blockage at 199k and blew the headgasket, taking the engine with it.

Then the 2nd headgasket blew on that same truck just earlier this month - so we're a bit paranoid with the Rodeo in not wanting the same fate.

I'm the original owner and it's never overheated, and I have the tranny flushed every 30k miles. Wish I had more faith in just dropping the pan, and doing it that way, but I'm a bit leary of not adding the right amount.

How often do you drop your tranny pan?


Ha! I said the origional owner washed it weekly... From me it gets the SimpleGreen about once a MONTH...

If I remember correctly, I started having overheating probs at about 200-210K... But it was a gradual thing... I only noticed it at low speed/heavy load. Either pulling my trailer in heavy traffic, or climbing the Main Divide (dirt) Road in the Santa Ana Mtns. (I had just made a run to the River with outside temps way over 100, and the A/C on all the time, and had no problems at all, even pulling the long grade out of Needles, but then I was running 70MPH+) When I finally took it to a friend who has a radiator shop, he just had me run it for a few minutes and turn it off... Then he just reached in and ran his hand across it, and about half or slightly more, was cool to touch. (The area on the return side... He said that it was a build up of the silicate (?) that settles out of the regular (green) style coolants as it dumps back in.) (Be SURE you turn it off first... ;-)

I've only done the tranny filter twice in the three years now that I've owned it... It would be do again, but I'd like to change ALL of it this time... Is that something that has to be done at a shop?... It sounds like it.

I put a volt meter to the battery this afternoon, but I'm not sure of the reading... I'm reading 16.1V, and that seems way high, so I want to check my son's truck in the morning and see if my meter is out of whack. (It read the same running or off, BTW.)

I didn't think to check and see if there was a voltage loss if I checked Pos. terminal to the chassis or to the engine block instead of just checking post to post... I'll do that in the morning...

Jim

You've taken EXCELLENT care of that rig.

It's really sad that most don't even care to wash the engine - I too wash my engine, but not every week, it gets washed every 2 weeks in the winter and in the summer it just depends on how many dusty roads I've gone down.

But I'm really good about never having gotten mud or anything of the likes in the engine bay.

Question for you, how many miles would you say you got out of your radiator? I'm trying to decide if I should just go ahead, for safety sake, and change it out this summer - it does have 153k. I do have it flushed every year, but we have a Toyota truck that the 1st radiator had a blockage at 199k and blew the headgasket, taking the engine with it.

Then the 2nd headgasket blew on that same truck just earlier this month - so we're a bit paranoid with the Rodeo in not wanting the same fate.

I'm the original owner and it's never overheated, and I have the tranny flushed every 30k miles. Wish I had more faith in just dropping the pan, and doing it that way, but I'm a bit leary of not adding the right amount.

How often do you drop your tranny pan?


Good morning... I thought that I had replied to this last night, but I guess it's lost in cyber space... I'll start again.

HA! I said that the ORIGIONAL ownew washed the motor weekly... From me, it gets the Simple Green treatment once a month or so... And I DO try to keep to the 3K-4K oil change schedule... (I got the lifetime free tire rotation, so I get that done too.)

Regards the overheating... If I remember, it was at the 200K-210K range, but it was gradual... It only "got-hot" at LOW speed and HEAVY load. The first time I was pulling my trailer inheavy morning traffic... Outside temps in the 60s... Next day, I was trying to get up a long steep ridge in the Santa Ana Mtns.

A month earlier I had made a trip to the River with outside temps over 100, and the AC going all the time. I had NO problems, even when pulling the long grade out of Needles, but I WAS running 70MPH +. (That's why I thought that the clutch fan was the prob. and didn't think about the radiator... well, that and the fact that the coolant looked just SO clean! Sorry, Amigo_2k )

I have only dropped the tranny pan twice since I've owned it... It would be due again but this time I'll have it flushed, I guess... Where does one go for that?

................

I tried to check the voltage yesterday but read 16.1V, (running and off), so I think that my meter is out of whack...

Jim

................

I tried to check the voltage yesterday but read 16.1V, (running and off), so I think that my meter is out of whack...

Jim


Ok... Got a better meter on it and, yes, I am showing 14.25v, running. Note that there is NO voltage drop checking to a chassis ground, or to the engine block, rather than directly between the pos. and neg. posts...

Off now to get some new Battery and ground cables... This should be fun, the ground cable runs into a loom and off to who-knows-where!

I'm not sure that I know where to start... ;-(

Jim

Ok, so you're saying if the inside (next to the engine) of the radiator is cool to the touch after driving, then it's most likely plugged?

Reason I'm asking, is I've reached in to check my Rodeo's radiator a time or two after a pretty good highway run, usually 10-20 minutes after shutting it off, and it'll be mostly cool to the touch.

I haven't checked it immediately after it shutting off, so I've just assumed that it's cooled off pretty fast.

Don't have any overheating issues; it never goes past the half-way mark.

Ok, so you're saying if the inside (next to the engine) of the radiator is cool to the touch after driving, then it's most likely plugged?

Reason I'm asking, is I've reached in to check my Rodeo's radiator a time or two after a pretty good highway run, usually 10-20 minutes after shutting it off, and it'll be mostly cool to the touch.

I haven't checked it immediately after it shutting off, so I've just assumed that it's cooled off pretty fast.

Don't have any overheating issues; it never goes past the half-way mark.


Hi there... It WAS immediate and the temperature zone was like a triangle... From the top corner where the water returns, diagonally down towards the opposite corner of the radiator was cool... The other half was too hot to hold your hand on.

For me, the temp gauge never got past the half way point either, until I put a heavy load on it (towing/climbing) at very slow speed.

.....................

OK... I replaced the neg. battery cable and cleaned,checked and added two new ground straps, and I DO have 14.29v (that is up from the earlier 14.25v if that means anything)... There is NO voltage drop when I ground to the engine, chassis or tin, and I don't show anything but zeros when I check the chassis/tin/engine/tranny with an Ohm meter. But I STILL have the flashing "Check Trans" light and no shifting...

What next?

JM

Did you check the amp on your alternator under load?

These trucks are funny about their volts.

Did you check the amp on your alternator under load?

These trucks are funny about their volts.

Good morning...
OK... You'll have to help me out here?

No I just checked the volts: 14.25 BEFORE I cleaned and checked everything... (But it DID read that across the two battery posts and also from the Pos. post to the Engine/chassis/tin. NO voltage drop.)

Then I pulled 14.29v after I replaced the ground cable and cleaned everything up... BTW... I have no idea if that .04v means anything.

I did NOT put it in gear to pull down the engine, I'll go do that now.

I had never had ANY signs of trouble until I disconnected that dang battery a while back... Isn't there a just a way to hit Ctrl/Alt/Delete and re-boot the computer?

Jim

Did you check the amp on your alternator under load?

These trucks are funny about their volts.


Good morning again... In low with the parking brake on, I'm getting 14.32v this morning... Same flashing "Check Trans" light and still in, what seems to be, "winter mode", i.e., it wants to take off in 3 unless L is selected manually.

Thanks,
Jim

Does ANYONE make a code reader that is compatable with this truck? (OK, and less than $500 or so?) I have been all over the web and can't find any that purport to be Isuzu friendly...

I'l like to try just "clearing the code" now that I've cleaned up all of the body ground stuff...

JM

Is your battery a maintenance free?

Ok, so you're getting 14volts, but is that at the battery or the alternator?

Is your battery a maintenance free?

No... I add water every so often.

Ok, so you're getting 14volts, but is that at the battery or the alternator?


Checked with a itsy-bitsy RadioShack multi-purpose meter right at the battery posts.


... and I just checked it with all the lights and AC on and it drops to 13.99v -14.04v as the AC cycles.

JM

JM- It looks like your battery and charging system are 100%. Look into the transmission range sensor. LOTS of posts on this. Search for 'range sensor', 'mode sensor', 'TRS', etc...

Joel

JM- It looks like your battery and charging system are 100%. Look into the transmission range sensor. LOTS of posts on this. Search for 'range sensor', 'mode sensor', 'TRS', etc...

Joel

OK... Thanks for trying...

Would there be any advantage to trying to "clear the code"? I hear that there is a way to do that with a paperclip, but I'd hate to short the wrong plug!

Any response to my question about a code reader for this rig?

Again, Thanks all... !
Jim

no other code reader other than you counting the flashes and comparing them to to the codes on this page: trouble codes for your viewing pleasure (http://www.troublecodes.net/isuzu/iszucel.shtml)

no other code reader other than you counting the flashes and comparing them to to the codes on this page: trouble codes for your viewing pleasure (http://www.troublecodes.net/isuzu/iszucel.shtml)


Oh My! I'm 403 FORBIDDEN!

Progress! (Well, perhaps, that is. )

I got a DTC 54 code, NOT the 51 code that my friend told me he got.

I was reading through some of the tech data at the AllData site and noted that the 54 code is also related to my backup lights. I had mentioned that they did not work, and that I didn't know if that was a related problem.... Well, it seems so, since there was a BLOWN FUSE.

(I had looked for a fuse for the backup lights, but did not know it was the one marked TCM.) (In fact, until I got into this project, I had no idea WHAT a TCM even was...)

OK, I replaced the fuse but it blew right away, so tomorrow I'll try to find the short.

FIXED!

It was a short on the backup light wiring. (and a blown 10 amp fuse.)
Thanks for a the tries!

JM

Lessons learned... (in no particular order... )

(1) If your friend says he read a 51 code, ask if he went to public school.
(2) If it's an electrical problem, CHECK THE FUSE!
(3) Before removing the "transmission mode switch" on the side of the trans, scribe a line or punch a mark so that it can be re-installed in its origional position... It has slotted screw holes to allow it to be rotated a few degrees for indexing/adjustment...
(4) On my '94 Rodeo, I have TWO, two-prong connectors inside the driver-side kick-pannel to choose from when looking for the place to read the code from. One is in a loom that runs along the carpet, and has four wires but only two connector pins. (It has a pair of Blue wires and a pair of yellow wires...) I don't have a clue what it does, but it DOES NOT help you read a code (51 or otherwise.) The real one, sort of dangled down from above. (I was so excited about getting the truck running again, that I put the kick pannel back on and forgot to note the color of this connector's leads... Sorry.)
(5) Disconnecting the battery does NOT clear the code. By luck, I found a note on the ALLDATA site that said to get the code blinking, and then push the "Power" and then "Winter" buttons within 3 seconds... THAT cleared the code!.
(6) Oh... Did I mention, CHECK THE FUSE?"
(7) It is hard to tell the difference between "stuck in Winter Mode", and "Safe Mode / Limp-In mode"

On now to the next project...

Cheers!

Jim Meyer
Paramount, CA

I have a '96 Honda Passport (3.2 L V6 4WD) that has a rebuilt transmission. It lost its shift indicatior lights some time ago and it often shifts very hard when it goes to its second gear. When I downshift L and 2 works, but 3 seems to be missing. Yesterday, after an oil change, it seems to be in the wrong gear when starting from a stopped positon and bucks a bit. Sparatically Winter mode comes on, but now my 4WD light has come on and and won't go off. Any ideas?