it seems like everytime i save up money and get close to KA-t parts and stuff, i run into another problem and my money drops. Everytime i gain an inch, i lose a mile. It sucks.

MY PROBLEM- Ok so i compression tested and leak down tested my engine and heres what i got.

COMPRESSION-
Cylindar 1- 150psi
Cylindar 2- 150psi
Cylindar 3- 148psi
Cylindar 4- 149psi

LEAKDOWN TEST
Cylindar 1- about 20%
Cylindar 2- about 20%
Cylindar 3- about 10%
Cylindar 4- about 10%

What i thought was wierd was that cylindar 3 has the worst compression and did the first time when i got the car, yet it has the best leak down. Whatever, all i know is that this engine is way below par. I doubt this block could handle any boost, and now my KA-t project is just about shot because im not going to be able to rebuild and turbo a KA.

Now, im looking towards saving for an SR swap and doing it myself. That will also yield me an engine/tranny that has less miles that most other KA's that i could ever find or afford. I really wanted KA-t, but i could also live with an SR. Ive been looking around, and where have you guys found good prices on a DIY'er SR swap, and did you buy a front clip or motor/tranny set?

I thought 150 on all cylinders wasn't that bad. A car came into the shop last weekend with like 110-120 in all cylinders and it ran fine. lol

why dont you find another ka?? i'm sure there's one SOMEWHERE for like $200 that is in decent shape

was the engine fully warmed up with the test done at WOT? that could greatly effect numbers. and most people who blow's KA's seems to blow them at cylinder #3. i guess it runs alittle lean there.

so i dont get it? whats the problem with rebuilding the KA? why would you go SR instead of just building and turbo'ing the KA. For the money, rebuilding the KA and turbo'ing it will only run you alittle more money than doing a good SR swap? So why would money change what you want to do?

This is the car world, plans change, shit breaks, money is spent, if you think your going to make 3000 in a summer and you plan on spending 2800 on your car, you'll end up buying 1500 worth of stuff and the rest will be spent on shit you didn't expect to break.

either that or booze...

well of course i will be doing all the work my self, even the rebuild (except for machining). So im thinking of selling my coupe to find a shell for like 1000$ or so, then putting the money i have saved to do an SR and turbo. I doubt i could a rebuild on a KA, and do the turbo project i had planned for the same as a basic SR swap. Im tired of having problems with the tranny also (sycros in 1st and 2nd are going out) because i can put it into 1 unless i come to a complete stop, and second will only go in like below 15mph. I figure i could get like 3000-3500 out of my coupe because it still runs great, has power, but i wouldnt trust the block under any amount of boost. So lets say 3000-3500 for my car, plus about 2,000 that i have saved for KA-t. Would be about 5000-5500 to buy a decent shell around 1000$ and SR motor package from a reputable company for about 4,000-4500$. I dont think ill have enough if i keep my coupe and try to go KA-t, then blow the motor and be stuck dead in the water.

so you have 5 g's...pick up a shell for $500...pick up a KA for 500ish (decently low mileage one) take it apart, send it to the machine shop...rebuild it (CP pistons...ect $1500 for aftermarket engine mods) once its back togather, stick it in your car (in N/A form)drive it for the 2k break in period, if its still running top notch, take the additions 2-3k that you have left over to turbo...sound do-able to me...but maybe thats just

You seem to think that it will magically work if you go SR, the SR can crap out to.

and, you really dont know what condition the motor is going to be in when you get it...some times ordering SR motors can be more of a hassel than you think...after finding something wrong with it, send it back...ect ect ect...i have a friend that has gotten 3 motors...and it took the last motor before he could get his car running...

I doubt that i could build an engine, buy a shell, and turbo setup with 5g's. I could build a badass engine and have a shell and be N/A forever and not ever go turbo. Or i could get a shell and do a BASIC SR swap. And i dont think it would instantly get rid of my problems, but i would be buying from a good company that i trust. If i get another KA with decently low miles, ill be right where im at now.

Or, i could go this route (i think driftking said similar) sell my S13 for about 3000-3500, grab this coupe shell local for 750, swap in a KA thats low miles and turbo. (heres the problem) How am i going to trully know that this person has a low mileage KA, mine is relatively low, and looks great, but is a shitty engine becuase somebody must have ran the shit out of it. And what about aftermarket KA parts, the setup im wanting to run is going to kill me (not me personally, but cost wise). I just dont think ill be able to get a relaible KA and shell and still have money left over to turbo. SR is already turbo and in stock form is quick (compared to a stock KA IMO).

ok...forget the "get a low mileage KA" i know i can build a KA, with 2000 (machine work is what cost the most 500 or so for bore'ing the block ect) 500 for the motor, and 1000 for the rest of the goodies that go in. (500 for pistons .02 overbore, titanium springs retainers, ect) so your up to 2000 now. buy the car for 500-1000 (which is easily do'able with a car with no motor or tranny) thats 2500-3000, and leaves 2k for a turbo setup...and if you start off with basic shit...like a t3/t4 ($500) revhard manifold ($400) turbo lines $200, full intercooler setup $600-700, used SAFC ($250), and possibly wideband($300), ECU tune ($500) and some injectors ($300) your looking at 3000 for a VERY GOOD turbo setup...this could be done for cheaper, if you decide not to get the SAFC ($250), and buy a t25 ($100) your looking at near the $2500 range for the turbo setup. so with out SAFC, and a t25 its around 5500, with the SAFC, and a t3/t4 (good for around 350-400whp) its 6,000. so if you could get 5,500 a built block, good shell and a decent turbo setup can be done...I just wouldnt skip on building the block, because you WILL eventually want to push the whp range later. BUT thats all IMO.

BTW...somebody with a decent KA-T setup tell me if im missing something

2 g's would rebuild up your current ka good enough to handle a good amount of boost. I just think that your thinking TOO much. I know how it feels bro....you said you can do the work yourself right? But is this your only car? If your worried about down time then i can see your struggle. Id say by a beater......then hurry up and rebuild(as fast as you possibly can) then sell the beater. I would do what driftking is saying. you may just have to start off with a small but satisfying ka setup for now. There was a ka here with most of the stuff he said....revhard mani, t3/t4 setup, safc etc...no front mount. He got one later, but still it was decently quick. i think his best time was a high 12 at the track iirc. He had kaaz 2 way and other suspension and wheels /tires though too. But you still get the point. He was original owner of the car. I mean id rather have a stout engine build up with a weak setup rather than a badass setup with high potential and not knowing if it can handle it all.....

thanks for following up what i was saying...like i said though...if you build the motor...you can always step up everything else around it easily...you cant rebuild a motor easy, if you blow it up with bolt-ons, it will actually be more down time.

FUCKING BOOST IT!

And if you are that worried, just swap in another KA. IDK why everyone is all "Build a block@!!!" You don't need to build anything. IIRC, your goals aren't insane, so just swap in a known good KA.

Testing methods... list them.

If it blows, swap another in... Just know that it isn't gonna just "blow," If it does, that means you messed something up. Ergo, learn from it.

well, if it really isnt that expensive to build a block. I could always get a cheap core and use my engine becuase it still runs. And build up that core on the side. damnit, im that type of person that changes there mind. I cant decide now. Id really like to build a decent block, and i have hookups for machinging also (the only part i wouldnt do, or get for free) at EastCO. ANd what you listed really had stuff more expensive then what i could get, the turbo list at least. My setup i want to run is...

Enthalpy ECU- 500
SAFCII- 250
AVCR- 250
Z32 MAFS- 100
Walbro 255 fuel pump- 125
Deuthwerks (sp?) 615cc injectors- 289
IHI RHC7 turbo- probably free
oil lines- 50
BOV- 150
Tial 38mm external gate- 200
Turbo manifold (not sure what kind, a revhard at least)
Wideband A/F
Guages (boost, oil pressure, EGT)
FMIC (not sure what to go with, most likely used, and unknown cost)

What else am i missing? Of course the various T fittings and vacuum lines.

On an engine build for a KA2DE i dont even know where to start.

I'd like to know where you are gonna get an AVC-R that you would trust for $250....

Deatschwerks*

Stocker is best to learn on. If you build a block and make a mistake, good bye a lot of money. Blow a stocker and its only a modifying learning expirience and not so much a financial.

I'd like to know where you are gonna get an AVC-R that you would trust for $250....

Deatschwerks*

Stocker is best to learn on. If you build a block and make a mistake, good bye a lot of money. Blow a stocker and its only a modifying learning expirience and not so much a financial.

i was thinking used, i didnt know they run much more than that. My original plans were to use my KA now, but i dont have much faith in it, id be willing to bet that 9psi would blow it quick. Im currently thinking ill just sell my car, buy a shell, find a low mileage KA, turbo, if i blow it then ill be building a block. But hopefully ill have proper setup and tuning that would work on a KA that is up to par. Fanatic, is there any other parts im missing that i would need for a decent setup? And where can i get KA24DE intercooler piping on an S13?

Stocker is best to learn on. If you build a block and make a mistake, good bye a lot of money. Blow a stocker and its only a modifying learning expirience and not so much a financial.

realize that even though a turbo KA is decently resiliant (sp) you could also have mistakes with a Stock Ka (as you mentioned) he could go through 2-3 Ka's (doubtful, but possible) becuase of him pushing the motor (not say he would) and then at the same time build a motor once and be fine...anything can happen when your messing with used motors...and same thing when building a motor...you just have to look at what you want...even if i was building my first motor, i would rather know that it blew becuase of something i did (even though it would possibly be more $$$), than keep think it was something i did, when i could possibly be just a shitty KA. either way you can rack up money...build a block (hopefully only once) or buy 1-2 ka's that blow up...then again...nissanfanatic could be right...you could do what he did and have a perfectly healthy motor that runs fine...then again...it is all in the tuning...thats been a proven fact though.

and btw...i was trying to go on a happy medium with part prices...you can always get cheaper, but if you buy new, it will be more...so i guess'd somewhere in-between...so thats why the turbo and stuff was more...intercooler piping ect, could be done for a decently easy $400 if you know the right people

IDK why you don't trust your current engine... I mean..is it blowing smoke on accel? Does it "feel" draggy??? Remember that I thought my engine had 150psi compression on all four due to a shatty gauge. I boosted it and then bought a new compression tester. It was at 180psi.LOL

Most mistakes that kill stock engines will kill built engines just as quick

repeat

Most mistakes that kill stock engines will kill built engines just as quick

Whats gonna kill a stock KA?? Detonation.. Think that won't hurt your crower rods/arias pistons? Only difference is, you'll feel even more shitty blowing a built engine at 250whp than you will blowing a stock engine.

You should learn more about turbocharged automobiles and making power with them before you spend a lot of money on something so intricate. Just because you have a built engine does not make your engine invincible.

Intercooler piping...http://www.turbo240.com I would check there. May have to call Ivan or Chris to see if they can make it for you. Other than that, I say/prolly will do soon make it yourself.

Your setup looks pretty decent. Just don't forget the small stuff like colder plugs, ect. I'm sure you plan on doing an exhaust/downpipe, so I'm not gonna be all "DUUUDDEE J000 foGo7 DA downpipze!!11".

RUN GOOD OIL/FILTER!

One other quick question...did you hold the throttle to the floor when you compression tested?

Buy a good coil too. MSD Blaster SS will do great. Easy $40 that will take you to around 330ft/lbs of torque.

very good write up 2 posts up fanatic...very very good advice...also something that goes along with things he said

TUNING IS KEY TO A GOOD LONG LIVING SETUP

BTW fanatic do you mind please sharing what filter, and oil you run?

Mobil 1 10w-30 fully sythetic oil with a Mobil 1 synthetic fiber filter. Change it every three months because I don't get 3000 miles in before the three months are up.

BTW, I hate that new Mobil "clean" shit. The other day at Autozone, they had all these cases of that shit, but no regular 10w-30... Fucking lazy people can't change thier oil when they are supposed to....

well, im pretty sure its at 150psi, because i checked with my dads guage (good one, he runs a shop) and then i checked with mine (random brand one, get the job done, if you trust it lol) and his showed 150psi also. Yeah, i did have it at WOT, i would trust my engine i have, kinda at least. But now im looking at cost affectiveness. If i sell my car, get a shell for about 750$ and get an OK KA for 500, thats 1,250 where i can probably sell my car here as it is for about 3500$. If i do this, ill pocket a butload of cash to put toward turbo setup. I plan to run colder range NGK plugs, and ill be welding up my own downpipe. This would be the loudest choice for exhaust, but if i cant afford one that i like (even if i can, i might choose this anyways) im going to run 3" straight pipe. There a local exhaust shop that bent 3" straight back for only 168$ on his truck, id assume that i wouldnt cost much more for my car. I dont really want to run synthetic, so i should probably just stick with the 10w-40 Mobil, and run a mobile 1 filter.

10w40 is synthetic lol, why wouldn't you wanna run synthetic? And I'm with Cory on this one, turbo the damn thing and if it blows, it blows, the only reason I would see valid for selling your current car is if the body/frame is rotten, if it's in good shape, keep the car.

WTF? how does the weight have to do with it being synthetic? They make non sythetic/synthetic of it. I can take pictures of the bottle i use if youd like, its 10w40 non synthetic. I want to sell me car, because i will gain a bunch of money if i sell it and get a different one. There a few things i dont like about it, but mostly because i can get a decent shell for cheap, and put a different KA in.

damnt slidestar, now you got me worried that 10w-40 is synthetic lol. I sure hope its not, because i just went and checked and mine says nothing about any synthetic of any sort anywhere on the bottle?

This is what im using, its a blend http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_Clean_High_Mileage_10W-40.aspx

i might switch to 10w-30 when i turbo. Id rather not run synthetic, heard to people say not too run on high mileage engines.

It's a blend of synthetic oil with cleaning agents, anyways, I got 125000miles on my engine and I run 10w30 full synthetic like fanatic and I beleive he has like 135000miles. And I hope you don't drive you car when it's cold with 10w40, it's hard on the engine on cold starts in the winter.

i give my car about 10minutes or so idling before i leave. Or until it gets close to running temperature, and i also dont have to get in a freezing car lol. Plus, it doesnt really get too cold here, mostly just rains. I leave my coat in my car, and put it on before i walk to class, so in conclusion, its not all that cold..

i say buy a beater and a 240 shell and a low mileage ka and take your time on rebuilding the ka do it right buy everything you want for it and cut no corners in the end u will be happy you took your time. i mena what ur like 15 or 16 u could spend the rest of ur highschool career building this engine and graduate high school w/ a nasty KA-T running just how u want it to w/ great internals a great turbo and a great set up as a whole. all in all it sbest to take your time and dont rush anything cause it will kick your ass down the road

i run royal purple 10w-30 :D

I run 10w30 Mobil1 with Nissan filter.

hi cool cAR

hi cool cAR

you win teh off topic award.

And yes, i am quite young, but i dont want you guys to know and have that impare your judgement on the situation. My dad already wants to rebuild the engine, but he would probably want to build it back to OEM spec and parts, where as i would rather just do a badass build the first time. If i were to just purposely blow my engine, then he would probably have us start on a rebuild within the next week or two. But, that would be a dick thing to do, just blow your engine on purpose so that someone else would pay to have it rebuilt. Im planning right now to first, find a good spare KA, then im going to find a cheap shell, then once i have that done i will sell my current S13 and use the money i get towards turbo. Its going to be a long process, but i think i can accomplish it.

OK...

No need for a 10 minute warm up.. that is just harsh. It takes forever for an engine to warm up at idle, ala, cold oil being used more/more wear. A 1 minute warm up is plenty and then drive easy for about 10 minutes.

No need for 10w-40 either. Way too many polymers IMO. 10w-30 is the oil to run if you never see temps below 0*F.

I'm rolling onto 141,000 right now.lol And I was trying to do 18psi tonight, but my ignition isn't liking that. Hopefully an MSD will clear it up...

I think it would be funny to see you go for broke, but even at 15psi+, the damn thing won't blow.:)

But, that would be a dick thing to do, just blow your engine on purpose so that someone else would pay to have it rebuilt.

Why? He offered, take him up on the offer.

And besides...why go on what "You think.."?? That would be like not asking a really good looking/cool personality girl out because "you think" she will say no. If you don't try, you'll never know....

well i just got contacted by a guy who saw an AD i put out for a low mileage KA, and he said he has one out of a 97 that only has 40K miles, and drove great, he said he hit something in a parking lot and totaled the car, and hes parting out. Its for 300, with tranny and clutch. This might be a stupid question, but can you do a leakdown with the engine out of the car? And how could i trully know it has only 40K miles on it?

only way to really tell how many miles are on a motor, well there isnt one...you have to trust who your buying from. and if the motor is still in the car with the gauge cluster...look at it...thats the only way really...but $300 for motor/tranny with 40k from a 97 is good stuff!...does it come with ecu?

no, but i dont think ill need it will i? I just want the block and head. But would i have to run an S14 turbo manifold if i got that engine?

97 is OBDII, it's not bolton.

the block and head are different? I dont want the ECU, just the block and head. Either way, its my lucky day, i found another guy who is selling to KA's, twin cam. One has 38K miles, the other over 200K, both are 5spds and one has a new clutch. Both are togethor, for only $350.

and i know that, im not a total idiot. 1996+ are OBDII.