when to replace shocks?

I have another quick question. My 1991 9c1 still has the original shocks at 123,000 miles. If it rides a bit rough, should I have them replaced and what's the best brand to go with? Thanks.

I would definitely replace them given the mileage. What brand is up to you. Bilstiens are quite popular on the 9c1 email list. But I think most people get the models for the 90 9c1 to imporve handling....

I've got Monroe Sensa-Trac's on my '91 9C1, I like 'em!

I generally replace shocks every 15k miles or so. I like to keep them fresh. You should replace them every 30-35k miles. Bad shocks will cause a dangerous driving condition that can easily result in the car "getting away from you" during moderately high-speed (40MPH+) driving on a rough road.

Ditto Corning_D3 - I use the same shocks and love 'em!

silicon - You replace your shocks about once a year then? Are you replacing them with standard or gas shocks?

silicon - You replace your shocks about once a year then? Are you replacing them with standard or gas shocks?

Gas shocks. Once a year, generally in March.

I'm curious as to why so often? I could almost see replacing standard oil shocks that often. But I've run some gas shocks for well over 100k before they showed any ill effects.

How hard is it to replace them yourself? Mine are shot - I still have the factory shocks with 134,000 miles on them.

How hard is it to replace them yourself? Mine are shot - I still have the factory shocks with 134,000 miles on them.

You'll have to jack the car up high enough to allow them under the control arms. For the front shocks, there's a stud on the top that goes into the frame of the car, the nut is accessible from under the hood, look in the area of where the upper control arms attach to the frame - you'll see it. Remove this nut. This can be tricky as the shock shaft coult turn with the nut. I've found that a strategically placed set of Vise Grips helps with this. You'll need a 9/16" deep socket here. There are also two bolts that attach the bottom of the shock to the lower control arm. These require 1/2" sockets (more properly, 13mm sockets) to remove. Once you get these bolts off, the shocks should drop through. The new shocks will want to extend fully once you go to install them, you'll have to muscle them up in order to get those two lower bolts back on. Once on, you can attach the nut to the top stud (make sure you use the new bushings that come with the shock). You should not have to use Vise Grips when tightening this nut. Tighten only until the bushings start to distort, no more.

The rear shocks are easier. There's two bolts on the top that attach to the frame and a large bolt/stud for the lower attachment point. I cannot stress how much easier it is to replace these than the front! Make sure you use the new bushings and you will still have to fight the new shocks a little to compress them to the point of being able to install.

Hmm, so maybe I should just replace the rear shocks myself and get my mechanic to do the front... how hard is it to compress the shocks? And if I can't get them on, would it be possible to drive the car to the mechanic (a couple of miles at low speeds) with either the front or rear shocks missing? I'm just afraid of not being able to get the new ones on.

Hmm, so maybe I should just replace the rear shocks myself and get my mechanic to do the front... how hard is it to compress the shocks? And if I can't get them on, would it be possible to drive the car to the mechanic (a couple of miles at low speeds) with either the front or rear shocks missing? I'm just afraid of not being able to get the new ones on.

You just simply push up on them. If you let them go, they will extend.

You just simply push up on them. If you let them go, they will extend.Cool. Any recomendations for cheap shocks? Thanks :)

Yep, don't use cheap shocks...

You just simply push up on them. If you let them go, they will extend.Cool. Any recomendations for cheap shocks? Thanks :)