Type X sub questions and box questions

Long time no see Automotive Forums. I want to be a lot more active from here on.

I recently bought an Alpine Type X (yes just 1 lol), and I will be powering this with the MRD-M1005. I own a Pontiac Sunfire and this sub will go where the back seat is now (this sub will sit where the back rest is). I will have 1 port above it too. How do you guys THINK this will sound? How does the Type X sound in general?

Next question I have is about the "box" i'll be making, so read on please...

_____________________________________
_____________________________________
_____________________________________

Now the air ride kit must go in the trunk along with the tanks. So that leaves 1 spot to put the sub, the back seat area.

Now i'm going to take the back seat out, get some MDF fiberglassed and painted and put it where the back seat is on the sunfire (so where the part you lean your back on is) and right below that will be a small amp rack for my 2 amps.

Now here's another few questions. How will that sound? Which was should I have it turned? Cone towards the trunk? Or away from it? Could I possible put MDF if the trunk to somewhat turn the trunk into a box? Also should I "port" 1 side of this fibreglassed board where the sub will go?

I know this is a SQL sub, but i'm looking to get a little more SPL out of it.

I'm looking for real professional opinions on this. If there are any further questions please ask. Thank you.

Port it and tune to 35Hz or so.

Before you port it everything depends on the type of music you listen to. If it's like rock with higher frequency bass then sealed box is the way to go to get a tighter response from the sub. If it's rap with lower frequency then ported box to get more excursion from the cone. As far as the direction of the sub if the box is completely inside a trunk( which your's isn't) then face it towards the back of your car. With it replacing the rear seat then forward facing will be no problem as I know numerous competitors that do it and provides great response as long as the enclosure is constructed well. If it were me and replacing the back seat and I had enough room in the trunk around the components for the air ride setup I would have the sheet of mdf on the front and build the rest of the box through the opening into the trunk. For that sub I recommend a 3 cu ft dual ported box for rap music and a 2 cu ft sealed box for rock and such. However if there isn't room to build the box into the trunk like I mentioned then forget the idea of the amp rack where the bottom of the seat goes and mount them on either side of the sub(outside the box space) and move the wall forward and build the box inside the back seat. If you plan on keeping that one design and system layout then after you get everything built trim the plastic trim panels back around the box and fiberglass the entier enclosure to the metal body so as to ensure that there will be no air movement anywhere behind or around the enclosure. If you would like send me an email with the measurements of the backseat area you have to work with and the space if any in the trunk you have to work with around the equip. in there and the detailed specs of the sub from the owners manual and in a couple of days I can custom design you the enclosure and the cut sheet for it as I have alot of experience doing custom work for my clients. If you want help I'd be happy to design it for you
dave5005769@hotmail.com just put type x enclosure in the subject line.

Thanks man. I'm going to make my decision soon about the seat, it isn't for sure yet, but if it is and after I get the measurements (because the cars in storage) i'll give you a shout via email! Really appreciated. :)

I'm thinking about buying a JBL BP1200.1 I've heard good things and people say that should power my sub well.

JBL's ok but for that amp and only being 1200w and what they're asking for it they're crazy. Your sub (if you have the 12 which I'm assuming you do) can handle 3000w max(1500w each coil at 4 ohm's) if you're looking for an amp that will power it better, cost half as much as the JBL, and give you the ability to fully power another 12 if you put it in then check out this link. I've got 2 of these pushing 2 Lanzar Opti1532 15's in my 92 4 door cherokee with a stand alone battery and 6 farad cap and they pound. I'm not usually a big fan of Boss Audio but I've had alot of friends with smaller systems in the past with Boss Audio amps and they lasted forever.
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=15846

Dude, STFU, with a decent transient responce and group delay ported can sound JUST as "tight" as sealed. Ported can be just as flat (or flatter with some EQing) and ported is all around louder.

a Kick drum is just as low or lower than a LOT of rap beats, more low end reenforcement + good transient responce = louder, clearer kick drums. Bass guitars also vneture quite low. IMO if you have the room, port it. just be careful. As long as your grop delay is beloe ~25 ms your ear will not pick up any difference between a beat on ported and a beat on sealed with the same temp and frequincy and loudness.

My ava 18 is ported and i sound better than most kids with JL stuff in sealed boxes. :)

my greatest delay in the usable range is around 15 ms at about 35Hz.

2cuft @ 30Hz will give you a group delay peak of 25ms at just below 30Hz that drops off quickly above it and a -3dB @ 23Hz anecho

Update guys. This is the set-up I got.

- Alpine CDA-9855
- Alpine Type X Sub
- JL Audio 1000/1
- Alpine 4 channel amp

I still need a box. It'll be a seperate box in the back. I listen to mostly rap so i'm hearing ported tuned at 35hz? How big? Thanks.

Do not port the type-x, despite what everyone here is saying. That sub is NOT built for ported applications and it will NOT perform well. All it takes is one glance at the T/S parameters to tell you that beyond the shadow of a doubt.

oh, and CB, a ported setup will not be flat in the car without either:
A - significant EQing, aka HUGE cuts in the EQ around tuning, negating any added output that you would normally get around tuning
B - designing the box in a way that sacrifices all of the normal benefits of tuning (added mechanical power handling, added output around tuning)

Cars have a ~12dB/oct boost starting around 50-60hz, the ONLY way to get a flat in-car response is to use a sub setup that has an anechoic response that's flat down to 50-60hz, where it then dives into a 12dB/oct rolloff. Ported setups DO NOT have this response, bottom line, so they CAN NOT have a flat in-car response, that's all there is to it. The only way to get this kind of response with a ported box is to build it about half of the recommended size and tune it around 12-15hz, and this only works with some subs. Doing this gives the sub the same response as sealed, and the same efficiency as sealed, at all frequencies. The only thing it accomplishes is added mechanical power handling between 10-25hz or so, which is pretty much useless for this application. Any other type of design will result in a large peak around tuning, hurting both frequency response and transient response. You may think it sounds great, and that's fine, but don't fool yourself into thinking that's how the music is supposed to sound, or that you have better transient response than a nice sealed setup with a truly flat frequency response (after all, frequency response and transient response are just different ways of measuring the exact same thing) ;)

So Sealed? Uh, lol. It's so 50/50..

How can it be 50/50 when only 3 people have voted?

How can it be 50/50 when only 3 people have voted?

This isn't the only site I asked this on.... ;)

ah...

well either way, that sub has a .64 Qts and a 40.6 EBP, don't port it