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For those of you who want to lift the front of their Safari 1"-2" and remove rear factory suspension mush (and lift it 1.5-2"), this info may help.

Note: The below is a cut / paste from a PM I sent to another member earlier today. If you have other suggestion of performing the same "lift & remove factory suspension mush", please add to the below....

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We lifted the rear of our 2001 AWD Safari as well. Due to pulling 4,500 lbs "loaded down" utility trailers and a 4,500 lb 19ft camper, we added a +1 leaf spring in the rear. This firmed its solo ride (to remove factory mush suspension) and allowed us to gain more tongue weight support for our towing needs. The end result of this +1 leaf spring upgraded was a 2" lifted rear end. Due to weight balance leverage, the front end went immediately down 1/2" (due to its tail being higher). So, we had to lift its front via adjusting its torsion bars. To do this, I jacked up the front of the van (to take stress off the torsion adjustment bolts), then used a 7/8" (???) large socket to turned their large adjustment each bolts inward 10 * 1/3 turns. This is around 3/8" more depth on these large bolts. These bolts are under the middle of the van and are located on the tranny cross bar (see below pictures). To ensure the bolts are adjusted the same, put the van on flat ground and measure its outer fender lip to ground distance "before and after" their adjustments. After the adjustments and front on the van sits level, the front tires will be slightly tilted. Thus, a front end alignment is required - but this is expected because one is changing their front suspension geomentry.


For picture of NO rear load (its stance) AFTER upgrades, surf:
http://ca.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/j_papple/detail?.dir=1815&.dnm=b3ff.jpg&.src=ph


For pictures of our rear tires, surf:

Rear van BEFORE upgrade - under load:
http://ca.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/j_papple/detail?.dir=1815&.dnm=5516.jpg&.src=ph
http://ca.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/j_papple/detail?.dir=1815&.dnm=7f42.jpg&.src=ph

Rear van AFTER upgrade - under load:
http://ca.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/j_papple/detail?.dir=1815&.dnm=4c9a.jpg&.src=ph
http://ca.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/j_papple/detail?.dir=1815&.dnm=93c9.jpg&.src=ph


For picture of the "front" torsion bar adjustment bolts, surf:
http://ca.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/j_papple/detail?.dir=1815&.dnm=5860re2.jpg&.src=ph
http://ca.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/j_papple/detail?.dir=1815&.dnm=d023re2.jpg&.src=ph

Note: We lifted the front of our van 1"-1.5". If you plan to lift more then this, you may need longer Torsion bolts (hard steel) or a special lift kit. For us, these adjustments worked great. Would NOT hesitate to do adjust these bolts again.

Our next suspension improvement on our van is to install Timbrens on the rear (to obtain less rear sag for our trailer pulling) and to install HD front shocks. I've been told that "Bilstiens" brand shocks are the best for towing. Much better then HD Monroe shocks on our Astro/Safari brand. The future Timbrens in the rear suspension will reduce rear sag and to reduce road bounce (while towing). For details on this product, surf entire page of: http://frameservice.com/timbren.htm

Note: Due to future rear lift (from the +1 leaf spring), I'll need to create a 1.5" spacer under the Timbren rubber stopper. Luckily, I can create spacer plates very easily via 2 steel plates and lots of welded nuts between the plates.


Hope this info helps others who plan to lift their Astro/Safari 1"-2" (and want to remove their factory mush suspension).

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…"To ensure the bolts are adjusted the same, put the van on flat ground and measure its outer fender lip to ground distance "before and after" their adjustments."…

Since you are adjusting the chassis ride height, a more accurate place to measure would be from the ground to the chassis, (lower control arm pivot bolts, frame, etc. not to the body. The vehicle must be on a perfectly level surface front to rear and side to side to ensure the chassis is level. This can easily be accomplished while the vehicle is on the alignment rack. Slip your alignment technician a few bucks to fine tune it for you. Measuring and adjusting to the fender lip will compensate for, and cover up any misalignment in body sheet metal, worn body isolators, etc. You need a level “foundation” to build on. Any time ride height is adjusted, even the slightest amount, there is a substantial weight shift and a wheel alignment is necessary to keep tire wear at a minimum, and vehicle control at maximum.