I know it's been asked before, but I didn't see it asked for the 2003. How would I release the tension on the belt, in order to remove it?? Should I buy a Haynes Manual?? Thanks for all the help! :cool:

I know it's been asked before, but I didn't see it asked for the 2003. How would I release the tension on the belt, in order to remove it?? Should I buy a Haynes Manual?? Thanks for all the help! :cool:

You need to insert a Tensioner Tool (rent it from your auto parts store) or a long 1/2" socket wrench into the square hole in the center of the tensioner pulley. You can look at the routing sticker on the header panel to figure out which one it is. Rotate the pulley until enough slack is present to slip off the belt. You will also need to remove the right engine mount to remove and install a new belt. This requires a floor jack and a piece of 1 foot square plywood. place the plywood on top of the jack and slide them under the oil pan. Jack up the engine enough to release the engine's weight from the shocks/tires, but NOT ENOUGH TO LIFT THE CAR. This is a bit of a judgement call. Remove two of the four mount bolts on the same side, and voila.

The haynes manual explains this procedure very well. You may also want to consider replacing some of the other high failure rate components such as the Alternator and Water pump, as this is a good time to do it.

You need to insert a Tensioner Tool (rent it from your auto parts store) or a long 1/2" socket wrench into the square hole in the center of the tensioner pulley. You can look at the routing sticker on the header panel to figure out which one it is. Rotate the pulley until enough slack is present to slip off the belt. You will also need to remove the right engine mount to remove and install a new belt. This requires a floor jack and a piece of 1 foot square plywood. place the plywood on top of the jack and slide them under the oil pan. Jack up the engine enough to release the engine's weight from the shocks/tires, but NOT ENOUGH TO LIFT THE CAR. This is a bit of a judgement call. Remove two of the four mount bolts on the same side, and voila.

The haynes manual explains this procedure very well. You may also want to consider replacing some of the other high failure rate components such as the Alternator and Water pump, as this is a good time to do it.

Thanks, for your clear instructions! I will be getting the Hayne Manual down the road, but for now at least I won't be stuck!

what the?! replace the alternator and waterpump when you do the belt?! Maybe if it were a timing belt and it was internal. Never heard of replacing an alternator cause it probably might go out lol. You should go buy new tires too cause you might get a nail. LOL

what the?! replace the alternator and waterpump when you do the belt?! Maybe if it were a timing belt and it was internal. Never heard of replacing an alternator cause it probably might go out lol. You should go buy new tires too cause you might get a nail. LOL

Have you had to replace the Belt yet? It is a pain in the ass! If this guy has a 2003, that means he could have been driving it since August of 2002. That means the car is 3 1/2 years old. If the car needs a new belt, then he has an estimated 70,000 miles (20,000 per year) on the engine. If the belt is showing signs of wear, and he is going to need to spend possibly several hours doing the replacement, then he "MAY also want to CONSIDER replacing some of the other high failure rate components."

PS: If your car has eighty thousand miles on it, and you need new brakes, and you are going to have the car up on jacks for two hours, you MAY want to CONSIDER replacing the rotors.

Have you had to replace the Belt yet? It is a pain in the ass! If this guy has a 2003, that means he could have been driving it since August of 2002. That means the car is 3 1/2 years old. If the car needs a new belt, then he has an estimated 70,000 miles (20,000 per year) on the engine. If the belt is showing signs of wear, and he is going to need to spend possibly several hours doing the replacement, then he "MAY also want to CONSIDER replacing some of the other high failure rate components."

PS: If your car has eighty thousand miles on it, and you need new brakes, and you are going to have the car up on jacks for two hours, you MAY want to CONSIDER replacing the rotors.

beatnik do you sell parts?

Thanks for advise, since it was too cold over here, I opted to let a local garage guy do it, I bought the belt($34) and paid $30 labor to have it replaced. I think I got away cheap!!!.....Car had over 80,000 miles on it, I drive 120 miles a day roundtrip to work. Rotors were replaced at 64,000 miles along with front brakes, rear brakes have never been replaced. Car now has 86,000 miles on it. Front brakes seem to last 25k to 30k miles.
I should have a look at the rears! Fuel pump conked out at around 77k miles. That was a major, major expense!! $700 with towing! Mechanic claimed it had a Japanese pump in it, he replaced it with a guinuine GM fuel pump.
Any clues as what I should replace next?? Maybe the water pump/ thermostat?? I would like to catch these before they leave me stranded.
Except for the fuel pump replacement, I am very satisfied with this 2003 Malibu. Any thoughts, glad to hear them.
That's all for now!

Anyone know how I can find out about how high the floor of a new car is from the ground?? I know suv's and minivans are higher off the ground, but how much I don't know. thanks!!:)

beatnik do you sell parts?

No. I am a Malibu owner, and shade tree mechanic.

I just had the front pads replaced along with the rotors. The last one only lasted about 25,000 miles. Advise given: try to install the best pads & rotors available and you should get close to 50,000 mile for the front brakes.

Question: What is the best pads and rotors out there? Any way of finding out??

Children - lets play nice. I might replace my water pump, but not my alternator. Also $34 for a Serpentine belt is a bit high. Finally, it does not take much to take off the motor mount to replace the belt. Just a little time and effort. Not too tough if you are a subscriber in these forums. After all - that's what these guys are here for!

Definitly not a few hours to replace the belt. More like 5 minutes. Just support the motor from underneath with some wood and a jack remove the two bolts and plate for the motor mount use a wrench for the tensioner route the new belt correctly replace the mount plate and bolt and...voila!

Definitly not a few hours to replace the belt. More like 5 minutes. Just support the motor from underneath with some wood and a jack remove the two bolts and plate for the motor mount use a wrench for the tensioner route the new belt correctly replace the mount plate and bolt and...voila!


5 minutes!!!

Holy crap you're good. I replaced mine again last night for no good reason except that I thought I could beat you. I had my apprentice (7 year old son) time me.

I took me an incredible 6 minutes and 28 seconds. I suck.

32 seconds to find my floor jack.
19 seconds to find a 12" by 12" piece of 3/4" plywood.
39 seconds to jack up the car just enough to remove the engine weight from the body.
18 seconds to get out my socket set & breaker bar.
10 seconds to find the right socket.
31 seconds to undo the torqued engine bolts.
14 seconds to remove the engine mount plate.
16 seconds to get the tensioner tool and release the belt tension.
14 seconds to remove the old belt.
11 seconds to clean four years of dirt off the belt routing sticker.
26 seconds to put on the new belt.
23 seconds to set the mount plate and hand tighten the mount bolts.
17 seconds to find my torque wrench.
19 seconds to torque the bolts.
16 seconds to let the car down.
29 seconds to start the car and make sure it was working correctly.
36 seconds to put away my floor jack, plywood, socket set, breaker bar, tensioner tool & torque wrench.
18 seconds to clean my hands.


Kudos to you!

For everyone's information, the 2003 Malibu uses 2 slightly different serpentine belts. One costs $25 and the other $35. I have done my own shocks, springs, front brakes, rear brakes, anti-sway bar and thermostat in the past, but this winter it was especially cold, I was very busy. That is why I let the corner mechanic do the belt.

Wow you guys are good. I usually get a cup of mud (coffee for you young guys that were never in the US Army) in lieu of the six-pack and I just take my time - I count on about 1 hour or less. I guess I am a lot older than you guys.

Rotors aren't a big deal, you can get away with "white box" or cheap rotors, but use ceramic front pads. These come in 2 lines, use the second line, they are half price. When you install the front brakes, make sure that the pad holders are cleaned up as rust can build up and sieze the pads in the pad holders, reducing service life. This last part is very critical, so pick your mechanic wisely!!!