I'm new here, and I'm also a new new Grand Cherokee owner (I've had my CJ7 for 7 years). I've been doing a lot of reading to find out what might be going on with the Grand I just bought. (2000 Limited 4.0 I6) Man these trucks are beautiful, but a few things have me concerned right off the bat.

It's got a coolant leak right smack dab under the middle of the engine compartment. It's leaking pretty quick when the engine is hot and the coolant is full. From what I have gathered off this site, it's probably the water pump that needs to be replaced. My question is if anyone knows a good place to order one online, could you direct me there please? And any recommendations when replacing the WP would be greatly appreciated.

I've also been reading A LOT about rotor warping problem on the '00 Grands. It seems like mine are about ready to be replaced (the rear actually whines and squeaks), and I'm planning on just spending the money to buy upgraded rotors/pads on all four corners. If anyone has experience in this department and could throw me some advice about which set-up to purchase, that would be really helpful. I found a place online to buy Brembo replacement rotors with ceramic pads, and I've seen the brand Bendex mentioned, but I can't seem to find a website for them.

One last issue: I love the turning radius on jeeps, but this one shutters REALLY bad when I crank the wheel too far to the left or to the right (while I'm moving). It has the full-time 4wd QuadraTrack system (I understand about 4wd on pavement and the wheels skipping when you turn because of different travel distances between the wheels), but this feels different from that. And plus, I was under the impression that these systems have slip differentials that would allow for smooth turning while in full-time 4wd. should I be concerned about this? Has anyone else experienced this in their Jeep?

Thanks so much for your help!

I'm new here, and I'm also a new new Grand Cherokee owner (I've had my CJ7 for 7 years). I've been doing a lot of reading to find out what might be going on with the Grand I just bought. (2000 Limited 4.0 I6) Man these trucks are beautiful, but a few things have me concerned right off the bat.

It's got a coolant leak right smack dab under the middle of the engine compartment. It's leaking pretty quick when the engine is hot and the coolant is full. From what I have gathered off this site, it's probably the water pump that needs to be replaced. My question is if anyone knows a good place to order one online, could you direct me there please? And any recommendations when replacing the WP would be greatly appreciated.

I've also been reading A LOT about rotor warping problem on the '00 Grands. It seems like mine are about ready to be replaced (the rear actually whines and squeaks), and I'm planning on just spending the money to buy upgraded rotors/pads on all four corners. If anyone has experience in this department and could throw me some advice about which set-up to purchase, that would be really helpful. I found a place online to buy Brembo replacement rotors with ceramic pads, and I've seen the brand Bendex mentioned, but I can't seem to find a website for them.

One last issue: I love the turning radius on jeeps, but this one shutters REALLY bad when I crank the wheel too far to the left or to the right (while I'm moving). It has the full-time 4wd QuadraTrack system (I understand about 4wd on pavement and the wheels skipping when you turn because of different travel distances between the wheels), but this feels different from that. And plus, I was under the impression that these systems have slip differentials that would allow for smooth turning while in full-time 4wd. should I be concerned about this? Has anyone else experienced this in their Jeep?

Thanks so much for your help!


http://jeepin.com/features/waterpump/index.asp Here is a site on the water pump. I used the one in the site Auto- Zone lifetime warranty $39.99 I'm a cj guy also besides cherokees Dale :2cents:

I've also been reading A LOT about rotor warping problem on the '00 Grands. It seems like mine are about ready to be replaced (the rear actually whines and squeaks), and I'm planning on just spending the money to buy upgraded rotors/pads on all four corners. If anyone has experience in this department and could throw me some advice about which set-up to purchase, that would be really helpful. I found a place online to buy Brembo replacement rotors with ceramic pads, and I've seen the brand Bendex mentioned, but I can't seem to find a website for them.


The brakes ---- warping can be an issue for all Grands, from '99 - 2004.
In '02 or 03 Chrysler addressed this by making upgraded calipers available for the front axel only--- Akebono to replace the Teves.
Its only an issue on some Grands, and only on the front.
So if you don't have a warping problem, no need to do anything.

If your brakes need to be replaced, just upgrade to the Akebono calipers in front, absolutely no need to change rotors unless yours are worn beyond specs.
The rears can be replaced with any good quality pads including Bendix - (spelled with an i.)
I would stay away from Ceramic pads...they are used to alleviate the brake dust problems on some cars and can be hard on rotors...more expensive is not always better.
The brakes on my Grand ('01) have never had any warping issues and I'm using the original rotors and Teves calipers.

The shuttering on tight turns is caused by the all wheel drive system, but I don't know if that's normal or not.

Bob– Thanks for your advice. The info on the brakes is very helpful. So you'd just suggest using regular metallic pads and just upgrading the calipers in the front to the Akebono (when they need to be replaced) if that hasn't been done yet? And since the back is what's giving me trouble, I should just use OEM parts?

Dale– Thanks for your help too on the water pump. Is that something you'd recommend I attempt myself (I'm proficient enough to turn a wrench on my '80 CJ7, but haven't really messed with anything newer), or should I leave it to the experts?

Bob, Dale, or anyone else with the same model Grand– Have you experienced any shuttering similar to mine when the wheel's cranked all the way with the full time 4wd? I assume this doesn't happen if you have the Select Track system with it in 2wd? You think I should have it looked at?

So you'd just suggest using regular metallic pads and just upgrading the calipers in the front to the Akebono (when they need to be replaced) if that hasn't been done yet? And since the back is what's giving me trouble, I should just use OEM parts?


Yep, you can get the upgraded front assembly that includes pads from any Jeep dealership.
You can tell if someone already upgraded them by looking at the caliper through the wheel... the Teves are dark colored with a retaining wire visible and the Akebono caliper is light colored.
For the rear use oem pads - more expensive but after markets are a crapshoot...you can get some very good ones but also some very bad.

Edit:
I've heard Autozones "Duralast Gold" pads are good (quiet) aftermarkets for the rear.
As far as the shuddering goes, I couldn't even try to replicate that - mine is a 2 wheel drive. :)

Thanks for the help guys...

Just to update, I found out that the coolant leak was due to a bad thermostat gasket and not the 'weep hole' on the water pump. Great news for my wallet!

These guys are correct Jeep did change the disks in the WJ. From what I think I know it was a recall to fix this...

Welcome to the WJ, it's is a good looking Jeep but man it has some problems, not all that bad it has some.

Fisrt before you replace anything try these people www.rotorpors.com I have a full set of drilled and sloted, my Jeep is a 02, black like yours, if you want to see what they look like on your jeep, just email me and I will send you sone picks. The rotors were more then stock replacements but with up to 200F less heat and NO fade and factory no rust ZINK diped they look and work great on my Jeep,

The only thing is, when you first drive the Jeep it's a little loud, your cutting new pad and removeing the zink from the rotor at the pad, so it's a little loud the first handfull of stops, but by the time I drove a few miles it was gone.

The noise, I take it you have the quadra drive? It should NOT be making that rubbing noise/feeling when you turn tight, I have been back time and time again to CAR MAX for the people to fix it, it started out as a little noise, and they fixed that, but now it's kinda bad, even as soon as this week it's going back into the shop and I will let you know what they find.

The I6 is a great engine, it has a bad rap, for a "rap" sound after 100,000 on the Jeep, it's piston slap and is nothing to worrie about, some $100,000 cars have that. You may be hearing the ABS pump, pumping or even the noise of the injectors.

You will find that the power steering will start to wine with high miles or even low miles. The rear lift hatch, latch will start to take more effort to pull on, Jeep ZJ's have that bad.

You may want to poke around this webpage http://www.wjjeeps.com/index.htm
this page is great, you can get most everything done here, as well as learn about the PCM flash update that adds another gear to your trans.

If you take your VIN info down to your Dodge or Jeep dealer he can tell you what has and has not been done as far as recalls.

I hope this helps.

By the way the 1999 WJ 4.7HO won 4x4 of the year.

You may want to poke around this webpage http://www.wjjeeps.com/index.htm
this page is great, you can get most everything done here, as well as learn about the PCM flash update that adds another gear to your trans.



Where or what is the exact web link to find this information? Is it a safe and non-damaging mod?

http://www.wjjeeps.com/index.htm

This webpage has just about everything about WJs your Jeep.

The webpage is listed above.

As for Rotors, drilled and sloted will outlast new orignal ones by 10.

Sorry i didn't ask the question very well. I meant to say, what is the weblink on that website that shows the PCM flash to get the additional gear?

I've looked but can't find it. It's mentioned in the quote in my previous post.

Sorry i didn't ask the question very well. I meant to say, what is the weblink on that website that shows the PCM flash to get the additional gear?

I've looked but can't find it. It's mentioned in the quote in my previous post.

Your Dealer.

I don't know the last place I read that in the webpage, your fgoing to have to look. I do know it happened, but you allready may have it done, you have to take you VIN to a dealer.

Let me know if I can help any more.

Your Dealer.

I don't know the last place I read that in the webpage, your fgoing to have to look. I do know it happened, but you allready may have it done, you have to take you VIN to a dealer.

Let me know if I can help any more.

Does it make your transmission have 5 gears? Was it actually a 5 gear transmission but the software limited it to 4 gears? When i'm on the highway, and i'm accelerating, and i use O/D lockout, it feels like its going through 2 gears. So maybe i already have it?

Another question would be....

When they state that a car has a 4 speed automatic overdrive transmission, does it mean that it has 4 gears, plus an overdrive gear (totaling 5 different gears for forward)? OR is it 3 gears plus an overdrive gear (totaling 4) ?

Anything else that can be said about this?

From what I know the new PCM flash will make your your 4 spped into a 5, I do think it adds a converter lock up to one of the middle gears.

I can't feel the shift in mine and I know it has it, so it's not going to be a "bump".

Another question would be....

When they state that a car has a 4 speed automatic
overdrive transmission, does it mean that it has 4 gears,
plus an overdrive gear (totaling 5 different gears for
forward)? OR is it 3 gears plus an overdrive gear (totaling 4)
?
Anything else that can be said about this?
Lets take first things first.

1. The 5th gear flash is only for the 45re transmission that
comes with the 4.7 V8.

2. It's not a mod, it's a safe Chrysler TCM flash upgrade.

3. When Chrysler states that a Jeep has a 4 speed
automatic overdrive transmission, it means 4 gears total -
the fourth is considered the overdrive gear.

4. If you have a V8 and don't know if you have 4 or 5 gears,
take it to the dealership to find out if the flash has been
performed.

Caveat- you didn't say what year Grand, I believe the 5th
gear upgrade only applies to the '99 to '04 models

Fancy rotors = waste of money. If you don't have warped
rotors, there is no need to replace them with slotted or
drilled ones.

Fancy rotors,?

Sure your 100%...wrong, even just haveing sloted rotors works better in wet weather then stock.

Your "fancy rotors" will also not heat up like factory Rotors, and less like to warp.

And what makes them even more worth it is they last like 10 times longer then stock.

I stop quicker and feel more when i'm slowing down, more "grab" I had my new set side by side next to my old "un turned" rotors and could see the extra bulk of the newer ones.

You will not have to replace them as often, you will stop better, and have less heat, and less fade, and they just look cool.

The Rotors I have are zinc coated silver, they will only get surface rust on the pad to rotor area, and after going around the block they get wiped clean.

On a reg set of rotors they rust, one recall for the ZJ was rusted rotors, that needed replacement.

You will never look back once you have a set. Even GM has a "slot" on GM A bodys on the 70's.

Brake facts vs brake myths:


Sure your 100%...wrong, even just haveing sloted rotors
works better in wet weather then stock.

False.
Better than drum brakes yes. Disk brakes no. When was
the last time you heard of water causing stopping problems
with ANY disk brakes? Slotted or un-slotted, the design nature of
disk brakes makes water a non issue.

Your "fancy rotors" will also not heat up like factory Rotors,
and less like to warp.

Fact:
Chrysler testing has proven that heat does NOT play a role
in warping of rotors.
Misaligned rotors and calipers do.
Modern disk brake pads and rotors, slotted or not, are
designed to heat up and operate at higher temperatures for
maximum efficiency.
Rotors do not just inexplicably warp under normal heat;
If this were the case, every Jeep would have warped rotors.

The disk would have to become red hot to be compromised.
I have heated brakes up enough to destroy the pads, the
rotors wore but did not warp.


And what makes them even more worth it is they last like 10
times longer then stock.

70k miles on my original '01 rotors and still going strong.
Even if they did last 10 times longer, (they won't) a Jeep
would have to last 1,000,000. miles take to advantage of
that life span.
Do the math.
Yep, that's worth it.


I stop quicker and feel more when i'm slowing down, more
"grab" I had my new set side by side next to my old "un
turned" rotors and could see the extra bulk of the newer
ones.

"Bulk" or thickness has absolutely nothing to do with stopping power, surface area does, which your slotted and cross drilled rotors have less of.
(ie, when you slot or drill rotors, you remove surface area,
not a good idea on Jeep rotors which already have minimal
pad surface contact area.)


You will not have to replace them as often, you will stop
better, and have less heat, and less fade, and they just look
cool.

Completely unproven.
If you have problems with premature brake wear or brake fade, that's a serious problem, and it's not because you don't have slotted rotors.
The brakes should be inspected and repaired.

If you drive your Jeep like a Ferrari, the pads "might" last a
little longer with slotted or cross drilled rotors, heat dissipation for racing cars being the concept behind their design.

The Rotors I have are zinc coated silver, they will only get
surface rust on the pad to rotor area, and after going
around the block they get wiped clean.

Ditto for my OEM rotors.
Zinc coated silver? Metallurgic snake oil.

You will never look back once you have a set. Even GM has
a "slot" on GM A bodys on the 70's.

If GM really wanted to address stopping deficiencies, they would have put bigger brakes on the Chevy Suburban.

If I felt slotted rotors were any better than OEM, I'd buy some today.
But the fact is that slotted or cross drilled rotors for street vehicles amounts to nothing more than well crafted snake oil.

If fancy looking rotors make you feel better, by all means
use them. But don't try to justify your expense by making
unproven claims.

Seems just about every auto sport from Rally Truck to Super Stock uses slotted or drill and slotted rotors, I guess they just like the looks?....?


Even the Army uses them, mostly on stuff thats made (by the Military) better then the factory made it.

Water tends to go into the holes on a slotted/drilled rotor and out the ribbed vent, rather then trying to compress (water will not) the water and not stopping. I have gone in and out of water on my jeeps and felt the delayed stopping, with my slotted and drilled I don't even feel anything, it just stops...

Most drilled and or slotted Rotors have thicker beams inside the rotor making a better heatsink and thus better to ward off warping, and with the slot and or holes it is able to shed off the heat as it turns, unlike a non drilled slotted rotor a facory type has no turbulence, and no way or getting rid of the dust.

So your saying that your stock rotors dont have a brown rust color to them?

Heres some news, I worked for 3 years at a major auto parts store, I seen more core returns then I care to talk about, but not one was nice and factory clean, they all were rusted in every place but the pad surface, and for sets that sat around for a while, they had rust.

In 5 years do you care to test your rotors to mine with a simple drop test to see the rust?

With a nice coat of rust on your rotors inside is the big deal, you are not cooling off the rotor as well as a new rotor or a treated rotor.

It seems your claims are baised on your own "feelings", you have not told me why they don't work.

The reason GM "A" body like 442 and GTO didnt put bigger stuff on was cost, but they do have a groove, and used it for many years.

Hi i'm new, so hello everyone.

Bob is right about the surface area, but I would have to think That Ram is right about most of it.

Sure how long do you need to have rotors, but if you have a classic car that your going to keep for a life time, why not get them?

Looks like Ram got banned, but Bob what you think, is it not worth the extra cooling and long life for a car your going to keep for a very long time?