heater stuck on


Grrr66
01-02-2006, 06:20 PM
2001 silverado heater gets stuck on the hot seems the valve gets stuck open. when you turn of the truck it will sometimes reset

bigd1180
01-03-2006, 09:55 AM
2001 silverado heater gets stuck on the hot seems the valve gets stuck open. when you turn of the truck it will sometimes reset
I have this same problem with my 2001. If you turn the heat all the way up for warm up and go on a trip and then turn the heat setting to the middle it will not change from the hottest setting!! i have to stop the truck and shut it off for a while so i can get the heat to be around the middle. I thought this was just a problem i was having but mabey it is a easy fix like a faulty Heater control or something. Anyone Thanks

tsutaz
01-22-2007, 08:57 PM
hi, did you find the cause to this problem? I have the same issues on my 00 z71.

Thanks

hogster3
01-22-2007, 09:31 PM
You need to remove the plastic kickplate under the
passenger side dash (4 screws). It's about an inch
above the tunnel (hump in the middle) on the right
side. It's about the size of a deck of cards. I
think there are 2 screws, one in the front that's not
too bad to get out, and one in the rear of the
actuator that you may not be able to see too well.
There is a shaft from the cold/hot air door that goes
into the actuator, so you'll need to slide it straight
down about an inch to remove it. Oh, and take off the
electrical connector.

Once that's out, take off the 3 phillips screws
holding the actuator together. Make sure you mark the
largest gear, driving the air door to the small blue
gear where the teeth mesh. Pop off the big gear, then
the next bigger gear, then the gear that mates with
the worm gear. You can use a screw driver to slide
the motor up and out of the housing, along with the
electronics board.

Then take the gear that was mating with the worm gear
and see if it's tight on the post it's supposed to sit
on. I reamed the gear out with a drill bit, by hand.

I'm not sure what grease they used in there, but there
was enough on the gears and electronic board to lube
up the shafts when I put it back together. Then put
it all back together, remembering to make sure the
alignment of the big bear to the small blue one is
correct.


I GOT THIS FROM A FELLOW MEMBER AND IT WORKED FOR ME. HIS NAME WAS RYAN. I GUESS YOU CAN REPLACE THE ACTUATOR, BUT REFILLING THE GREASE IN THERE WORKED FOR ME. IT IS NOT ALL THAT HARD TO DO.

HOGSTER

chuck16
01-29-2007, 12:03 PM
You need to remove the plastic kickplate under the
passenger side dash (4 screws). It's about an inch
above the tunnel (hump in the middle) on the right
side. It's about the size of a deck of cards. I
think there are 2 screws, one in the front that's not
too bad to get out, and one in the rear of the
actuator that you may not be able to see too well.
There is a shaft from the cold/hot air door that goes
into the actuator, so you'll need to slide it straight
down about an inch to remove it. Oh, and take off the
electrical connector.

Once that's out, take off the 3 phillips screws
holding the actuator together. Make sure you mark the
largest gear, driving the air door to the small blue
gear where the teeth mesh. Pop off the big gear, then
the next bigger gear, then the gear that mates with
the worm gear. You can use a screw driver to slide
the motor up and out of the housing, along with the
electronics board.

Then take the gear that was mating with the worm gear
and see if it's tight on the post it's supposed to sit
on. I reamed the gear out with a drill bit, by hand.

I'm not sure what grease they used in there, but there
was enough on the gears and electronic board to lube
up the shafts when I put it back together. Then put
it all back together, remembering to make sure the
alignment of the big bear to the small blue one is
correct.


I GOT THIS FROM A FELLOW MEMBER AND IT WORKED FOR ME. HIS NAME WAS RYAN. I GUESS YOU CAN REPLACE THE ACTUATOR, BUT REFILLING THE GREASE IN THERE WORKED FOR ME. IT IS NOT ALL THAT HARD TO DO.

HOGSTER

Got Pics????

:useless:

I Don't mean that about the pics just a great way to get attention.....!

loganlott
01-29-2007, 03:44 PM
hogster3 is right you have an actuator problem. its a pain in the ass to replace, sorry man.

Autobug
03-23-2008, 09:00 AM
I own a shop, and this is what I would suggest you do; You can either go to the library and read all about it in a Chilton's Repair Manual for free, or purchase a Haynes Repair Manual for your vehicle at the parts store. Some vehicles has a bleeder valve for this, while others are purged by removing the cap, running the engine til the radiator gets hot, capping it off, and filling recovery tank up to the line on the side of it that says full hot, or it could be full cold. Once the engine has gotten fully hot, turn it off, let it sit till it gets completely cold again, remove the radiator cap (if it has one) and fill the radiator up to within an inch of the top, make sure the coolant recovery tank is properly filled too. This should do the trick, but I would strongly suggest reading a repair manual on the proper way to bleed the system that it has. Also; many require special antifreeze, so pay attention to what the stickers under the hood say. Air in a cooling system will go to the highest point, so keep this in mind when bleeding the system. Reverse flow systems usually has a bleeder vavle on the top where the radiator hose attaches to the engine, and this type of system is bleed by opening this valve, and running the engine until the coolant flows in a steady stream, thus meaning the air is out of the system. A good cap is critical to your system working properly. It's very important to turn your heater to full hot when you bleed the system, and if the heat doesn't get hot as it should, then you still have air in the system, or you are low on coolant. The pitcock at the bottom of the radiator is called a drain plug, and opening it will only drain your coolant out. When the air is out of the system, check to see both radiator hoses are hot, the radiator is hot all over, and not cold to the touch in spots, and the heater hoses are both hot. Its very important to keep the level of coolant in the recovery tank up to the line, or it could suck air back into the system. I have done this operation thousands of times over the years, and its not rocket science to do this. I have even seen some vehicles that had to be jacked up in the front before the air would all come out. Remember, air will go to the highest point, so you want to get the cap to that point. Once the thermostat opens, it will want to push coolant out of the cap, so when this happens you must close the system off then. Allow it to get cold again, remove the cap, and fill the rest of the way up to within 1 inch of the top of the radiator.
Glad to help out, Good Luck!!!:icon16:

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