im sick of honda's!!!!! please ReAd!!

ok i bought this car,its a nice car,its a 93 civic hatchback $4800(17's,system,bodykit,drop springs etc) when i bought it it came with a J/r supercharger,i didnt kno much about it and neither did the guy i got it from first it had the wrong pulley (3 rib pulley on a 4 rib system) so i went and bought the pulley (pulley size 3.8) $200,and the clutch was very bad so i went and got a ACT stage 2 clutch and lightend flywheel $800.00 and on the 37th mile of breaking in the clutch (driving it slow n easy) it started smoking so i pulled over and popped the hood,oil every where i havent even got 40 miles on the car since i bought it n now this so the next day i check everything out in my drive way(its blistering freezing cold out so i quikly deciede to try a valve cover gasket set $45.00,nope still leaks oil so i get it started after trying and trying n finally it starts and stays runnin on its own i open the oil cap n smoke is coming out,and smoke is coming out of the intake hose(next to the oil cap on the valve cover) and its still leaking oil (leaking is kind of a weak way to say it more like you open the hood and oil is all over EVERYTHING!!the battery the inside of the hood EVERYWHERE!!!)so i asume the head gasket
,when i 1st boiught the car i seen that it had a vtec solinoid n i didnt even think to second guess it i figured it was a 1.6 sohc d16z6 haha jokes on me,it actually is a 92hp d15z1 vtec-E engine with stock everything (engine wise),
so now im wondering what do u think i should do?i live in new hampshire so i only kno like 2 people that have carslike mine in my area and there "ricers",i dont want to spend tons of money,what are my options...should i try n sell everything and get a GSR would it be worth it..or if i keep my supercharger n ACT stuff then what d-series engine should i go with that is the fastest with that combination,im so fed up with honda's n stuff like this happening im ready to say screw it n blow it up!!! (not really but im mad),what are the up-grades you make when you have a supercharger,i think you upgrade spark and fuel dont you?plz help me this sux i have a good lookin car that just sits in my drive way!!!!! thanx~marcus

don't blame it on Honda, blame it on the previous owner. Why was he selling the car in the first place? Probably because he knew of all the things wrong with it. Probably would be cheapest to swap a healthy Z6 or Y7 in there so you could still keep the supercharger.

first of all, how do you buy a car without checking to see whether it is a z1 or z6? you bought the car prior to doing a compression and leakdown, especially on a used boosted car? after all that, have you done a compression and leakdown yet? with all the oil under the hood, have you attempted to pinpoint the location of the oil leak yet?..................................a blown headgasket is not going to throw oil all over the hood like that. its not the blower oil from possible overtensioning of the blower belt. also, the m45 blower runs a 3 rib belt, not a 4 rib.

a consumer should better educate themselves on the product they are going to buy, before buying.

Don't take this the wrong way but, this is why no one should ever buy a car that has been modified by the previous owner (unless you know the person who's selling it and know everything about it). Chances are the car was beat to shit before you even bought it. And clearly the previous owner didn't know a damn thing, from SC'ing an economy engine (the "e" in vtec-e even stands for economy). If you stick with the stuff you have now, go with the z6 or the jdm d15b vtec (as well as the corresponding transmission). And make sure you inspect the engine and do a compression check before using it with your supercharger. There is a lot more things to worry about when you're dealing with forced induction, and this is the perfect case of that. You can't just slap on a supercharger to a stock engine and not expect something to go wrong with it, clearly the jackass who owned it before didn't know that. And yes you do need to upgrade your fuel delivery as well as ignition timing/spark. Other than that, a b18c would be a good engine to swap in.

first of all, how do you buy a car without checking to see whether it is a z1 or z6? you bought the car prior to doing a compression and leakdown, especially on a used boosted car? after all that, have you done a compression and leakdown yet? with all the oil under the hood, have you attempted to pinpoint the location of the oil leak yet?..................................a blown headgasket is not going to throw oil all over the hood like that. its not the blower oil from possible overtensioning of the blower belt. also, the m45 blower runs a 3 rib belt, not a 4 rib.

a consumer should better educate themselves on the product they are going to buy, before buying.


superbluecivicsi- u say the s/c runs a 3 rib belt? hows that when the crankshaft pulley is a 4 rib pulley and so is the altenator? we tried using a 3 rib belt but we couldnt find one at the part store (a belt) that went that big so we talked to kieth at jackson racing and explained to him the situation and he sent me a 4 rib pulley and 4 rib belt...and as far as the oil leak i dont even kno were to start looking..n i relized i f*cked up by not lookin at the engine code when i bought it but its not like i can go back in time i hate it when people like you say" you shoudve or why didnt you"i posted from were im at now n what too do now not what i shouldve done then..umm also when i changed the valve cover gaskets the spark plugs in in cylinder 1 and 4 were full of oil,its wierd the car will run but its so hard to start but once it warms up it runs ok but starting it is just so hard u crank n crank n u have to hold your foot on the gas even tho its fuel injection,and once its warmed up it idles fine other wise it stalls when cold and im throwing a TPS code...and how do i do a leak down test?

oh well. take it as you will. i like giving out healthy critism. take it anyway you want.

anyways, lets move on.

superbluecivicsi- u say the s/c runs a 3 rib belt? hows that when the crankshaft pulley is a 4 rib pulley and so is the altenator? we tried using a 3 rib belt but we couldnt find one at the part store (a belt) that went that big so we talked to kieth at jackson racing and explained to him the situation and he sent me a 4 rib pulley and 4 rib belt

actually, i misread your post. first, the 92-95 blower comes with the 3 rib pulley. the 96+ comes with the four. what im trying to say is that the original blower you have is not the suppose to be the blower for your car. the blower you had was the 96+ blower in which you swapped out the pulley and put in place of a 4 ribbed. whats the point?...............if you were running both four ribs on the blower and the alt, then, that should be fine. the differences in the blower itself in within the purge/cut solenoid hoses and vacuum ports around the gooseneck. im just going to assume that the original install of the jrsc had addressed those small issues. its no biggy, it was not necessary to swap out the pulleys, because the as long as you ran the same ribbed pulleys on the blower and alt, you will be fine. just saw it as a waste of time and money to get new pulleys.

since there is oil in the cylinders, im just going to skip over for checking for external oil leakages (you should still wipe everything down and look for the source anyways) and go with the compression and leakdown to isolate the problem. dont forget to check the plug o rings. heres some reference.

http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/leakdown/leakdown.php
http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/comptest/comptest.php

as far as the tps goes, you need to check it with a multimeter.

you are running a FMU? EMS? your ignition timing is at? you are running hacks? you are boosting how many lbs?

i read the title of the thread and then i read your post. it seems that you were blaming hondas for the problem, but, is it really the car? back in my youngin days, when i started in the scene, i did my research first. i didnt buy something for thousands of dollars first, then, try to figure out how it worked. i researched first.

i ran my b16 jrsc for over four years and over 80k miles. i ran my other b16 with an 18g and switched over to an sc34 for 3 + years. no problems here. thats because i was well informed before pumping thousands of dollars into the scene. when you buy a car that has been modified and have no idea what it does or how it works. more than likely, you are looking for trouble.

constructive critism maybe? oh well. take it as you will. im not here to put you down.

good luck.

For a leak down tester, you can make one or buy one. Up to your. Here is a decent explaination;

http://www.xs11.com/tips/misc/misc3.shtml

This is different than simple compression test. But sounds like you might have low compression on 1 and 4 cylinder anyways... Check that first if you have a compression tester.

It's up to you if you want to rebuild that motor or not, but there are so many better things out there for that price range, so you might just chuck the d15. And yes it is correct that e in vtec-e stands for economy, but it's still a vtec. It just indicates "lean burn" setting at lower RPM. Even the new K20a2 in RSX-S uses this setup at lower rpm to save gas. (Don't get me wrong, K20A2 also has a crazy 3rd lobe at high RPM unlike a simple vtec-e)

But anyways, if you like the body style of the car, I say keep it and invest in a decent long block. You can reuse sc and all with a little modification if it is still working okay. JRSC is mild enough that it should work good enough with a properly maintained stock block.

im not sure why the other kid said i wasted my money buying a 4 rib pulley...becuz when i very first bought the car it had a 3 rib BELT on it but becuz the supercharger pulley was a 3 rib and the altenator and crankshaft was a 4 RIB the belt snapped,so i just went out n bought a 4 rib s/c pulley so all the pulleys would be 4 rib and the belt would be for rib seeing how they dont sell a 3 rib belts that long at a local part store,anyways will the supercharger i have only fit on a D-series engine or will it fit on a B-series??i think if i keep all the stuff im going to either go with a d15b or a zc witch would be faster with the super charger also we bought a autometer boost guage n it looked like it spiked at 12 lbs but ran between 8-10 (says my friend) i dont kno much about super chargers and if i knew sum1 id trade everything the clutch supercharger flywheel n d15z1 engine for like a b16 engine or a gsr but i dunno ne1 so i dunno i just dont no thats why i wrote that bout honda's cuz im more or less fed up i didnt mean to direct toward every1's hondas just this one lol sorry every1