1995 4X4 LS W with 200,000 miles.
already replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, cpi, nut kit. after the replacing of the cpi and nut kit the car ran beautifully. now today, i was driving up a steep hill when my car started running horrible and sputtering badly. i lost all power so i pulled off the road. check engine was flashing. got it home and i ran the codes, cylinder 2 misfire. pulled number 2 plug and it was caked up with carbon. mind you that these plugs are no more than 1500 miles old. replaced that plug with one that i had laying around, went for a ride, still was sputtering.
this was they only plug that i checked due to the fact that i lost light. i cant seem to find my fuel pressure guage. i will be testing that tomorrow. any other thing that i should check? thanks in advance

Fuel filter, though - with the #2 plug fouled out, I would almost bet that you will find fuel pressure leak down...

You might have the #2 injector stuck open and it's drizzling a ton of fuel down that cylinder's throat. Check for leak down once you find your fuel pressure gage, I have a gut feeling it's a stuck poppet.

Yeah, I would agree with wolfox... Pull the plenum and check the injector again... Either stuck open or it's not seated right..

i was going to be pulling that later today to check my work. im at work now until 3. so i will do it later. thanks

first of all, merry christmas all. i pulled the plenum and what i saw troubles me. i found pools of oil inside there. no gas, but oil. on both sides. what does this mean? thanks

i was told it could be the lower intake gasket leaking..... truck just hit 202,000 miles. i replaced the radiator and all hoses, but im still loosing some coolant. not much, probably 1/2 gallon every 6 months. think it is time to get rid of it?? dumped in over 4000 in the 19 months i've owned it. that is doing the work myself. no labor in there. someone please help, thanks

I would check the plug wire to make sure that it is firing the plug first

cubanlorenzo
What Kind of SparkPlugs are you running in it?
ACDelco Plats????

yes, ACdelco plats are in there. you should see this plug. caked up beyond belief after only 2000 miles.. what about the oil puddles in my engine??

well i reassembled everything today. cleaned everything out. after everything was put back together. i went to fire the car up and it wouldnt start. didnt even crank over. i have been having problems with my battery so i just went out and bought a new one. put it in and im having the same problem again. no start. when i first fired it up with the new battery it cranked for about a second and a half, then it just stopped. is there some kind of voltage regulator or something that could be causing this? starter is brand new. no more than 5 months.. thanks

1.) First I would check the coil for failure, you might be getting a weak spark to that cylinder.

2.) Have you checked the EGR valve yet?

3.) There are no delco plats for the 1995, only the standard plugs and the rapidfires.

4.) The oil you are seeing in the upper plenum is from the PCV valve blowby. Remember the PCV catch can I installed on my blazer? Now you know why I installed it. It will catch that crap before it fouls the plugs. ;)

5.) Is the battery fully charged?

6.) You might have hydrolock from a leaking poppet dumping fuel raw into a cylinder with weak fire and now it is hydrolocked up. Check you oil level to see if it is high.

EGR valve was checked when i checked the CPI. clean as a whistle.
so the oil in there isnt from a leaking gasket??
bought a brand new battery yesturday, still no start. all accesories work in the car.
oil lever is good, right in the middle of add and full.

i called up my mechanic who replaced the stater and told me that there is a one year warrenty on the starter i bought. he lives down the road so he said that he would check my car over today and see whats wrong with it. so i guess ill see what he says then post back.

Keep us updated... I'm sure these guys on the forum will be able to help you out! Oh yeah you might want to put some slick 50 in your truck at that high of milage... :grinno:

ive already put some slick 50 in there. done just about everything besides put a new engine in her. im at work now, so i will post later tonight what my mechanic said, thanks

the coolant could be a head gasket could be a hair line if its thats small

or possibly the headgasket went at one time and was rn hot and warpped it a bit... i should ask is the coolant on the ground? with the other problem beats me this cpi engine is weird as fuk

coolant never touches the ground, at least when it is parked, dont know about when im driving.

well my mechanic told me that my starter is shot. so he is putting a new one in for me today while i am at work. so we will see how this goes...

well he put the new starter in and my car started to crank over but no start after 5 secs of cranking, went to crank it again and it is doing the same thing as before. go to turn the key and you hear the pump priming but no crank at all.as soon as you turn the key to start, you hear the starter about to engauge and it makes a single noise. it is like its locking up. it was starting fine before everything happened. so im back to square one. any help is appreciated all of you blazer gurus thanks.....

well he put the new starter in and my car started to crank over but no start after 5 secs of cranking, went to crank it again and it is doing the same thing as before. go to turn the key and you hear the pump priming but no crank at all.as soon as you turn the key to start, you hear the starter about to engauge and it makes a single noise. it is like its locking up. it was starting fine before everything happened. so im back to square one. any help is appreciated all of you blazer gurus thanks.....

how is the fuel pressure? Are you measuring it at the Schrader valve. Not enough pressure could be your culprit... It's tricky that way...if your is like mine you need that pressure to be in spec...

low fuel pressure would make it not crank??

low fuel pressure would make it not crank??

No, that will just prevent it from catching. Either you got a bad starter (common with remans) or possibly there is fluid in the cylinders?

it isnt a reman that was put in there, brand new.

it isnt a reman that was put in there, brand new.

Still wouldn't be out of line to have even a weak new starter...Seen it often enough...

Sounds like hydrolock to me.

Watch you don't bend a rod bud.

Remove all plugs and see if it will turn over properly.

what is hydrolock and how bad is it'?

what is hydrolock and how bad is it'?

Hydrolock is when you get fluid (water, gas, etc) in your cylinder. Water mainly. What happenes is that water cannot be compressed so it's like trying to compress a brick wall. The force will bend the rods if strong enough. To test this theory, diconnect the fuse to the fuel pump. Remove all spark plugs. If the engine cranks normally you had some fluid preventing the cylinder from moving. Now, clean up the plugs, put them back in, reinstall the fuel pump fuse, and try to start it.

Sounds like hydrolock to me also, remove plugs and see if it cranks as BlazerLT has suggested. Hydro lock is when one cylinder filled with enough water to prevent the engine from turning over because of the pressure on the water in the cylinder.

well i removed all the plugs are tried to start. no go. nothing happened. no crank or anything, same story. cleaned plugs, reinstalled, tried to start it again and same story. anything else?? thanks in advance.

what else could it be?? sorry to be an annoyance but i've been without this car for a week now. im just going to give in and have it towed to the shop. thanks...

I would first get your money back for a good starter that didn't need replacing.

Next did he replace the starter solenoid or just the starter itself.

he only replaced the starter, free of charge as well, so i might as well keep the new starter in there. also this morning i went out there to give it a try and it turned over for about a second then stopped like usual. what do you make of that?

i was told that i should try to turn the engine with a socket wrench and see if it will turn. if it does then he said my timing could be off. if it doesnt then there is something internally wrong. could your timing being off cause the car not to crank? sometimes i get a little crank but then it wont after that. just one loud click. thanks in advance

i was told that i should try to turn the engine with a socket wrench and see if it will turn. if it does then he said my timing could be off. if it doesnt then there is something internally wrong. could your timing being off cause the car not to crank? sometimes i get a little crank but then it wont after that. just one loud click. thanks in advance

Turning the crank by hand will not tell you if your timing is off. Besides, you can't adjust your timing anyway. Now if you pull all your plugs and rotate the crank (you will need a breaker bar) that will tell you if it's seized or not. Though I can't see it being seized unless you lost all oil pressure or overheated to hell. At this point with all that you've thrown at it it will probably be easier just to let a dealer look at it and diagnose it then if possible do the work yourself.

someone else told me that it might be seized but i dont see that as possible. the car ran up to the day i pulled the plenum and checked for leaking again. never over heated and oil level and pressure was good. so im going to have to towed to my mechanic, and have him do a diagnosis for free. if it something minor ill get ti fixed. but if it isnt then it's time to let this car go...anyone want a 95? hahaha kidding of course

As I said earlier in the thread. It's quite possible that your starter was replaced with another faulty one.

well i pulled the plugs and turned the crank by hand, it moved. hard to move but it did move. so now im going to have it towed

Hey bud.........just to let you know that the other night, my starter went out on me. Actually, when I went to start my truck, it was dead in the water......I can hear a loud click but starter wasn't turning. It was fine earlier. I had this "no start" couple times before with this truck.

Ended up replacing the starter with remanufactured starter from AutoZone for like $120 and started fine now.

I even had my old starter tested and it passed. However, it may seems like it's still good but I know the solenoid can have a mind of its own when it starts acting up. The solenoid is attached on the starter.

Took me 2 hours to change the starter due to tight space.

Thought I'd pass along to you.

--Ralph

well received a call from my mechanic today. told me engine is hydrolocked pretty bad. drained the oil out and he said there looked to be more gas than oil in there. he was saying with the amount of miles and cost, pretty much leaned toward me not fixing the car. especially with the amount of miles i have on it, 205000.. so i think im going to take his advice and get rid of it, has a nice body on it so i maybe be able to find someone who has an engine to buy it. if not then the wrecking yard will be more than happy to take it.

I wouldn't throw the towel in on that.

Hydrolock is not a reason to throw a truck away like that.

he was saying that the gas ate away at the valve seals and other things. he is just trying to give me options. he said that he will do the work, but he also doesnt want to see me dump more money into it just to get it fixed and maybe have a rod knock or something else. he was saying with hydrolocking there is potential for the bent rods. he mentioned that there was a lot of gas mixed with my oil, and as everyone knows that just is bad news. but we will see. i told him i will let him know tomorrow what i am going to do...

he was saying that the gas ate away at the valve seals and other things. he is just trying to give me options. he said that he will do the work, but he also doesnt want to see me dump more money into it just to get it fixed and maybe have a rod knock or something else. he was saying with hydrolocking there is potential for the bent rods. he mentioned that there was a lot of gas mixed with my oil, and as everyone knows that just is bad news. but we will see. i told him i will let him know tomorrow what i am going to do...

That's too bad. If it's any consequence, not knowing how much money you want to spend. I purchased a short block from A-1 automotive online (I beleive) for around $465 and had it shipped to a mechanic who tested it (probably a waste since A-1 isn't in the business of sending out bad engines) then had it installed into my truck with all my old accessories, which weren't all old because I had just replaced the injector and nut kit (aprox 400 bucks if I remember, dealer item so no leeway there) mechanic did the swap for around 600-700 bucks, including new gaskets where needed and fluides and all, he also fixed a broken motor mount and replaced a terrible looking, but working sensor on side of engine (might have been the coolent temp, i forget to be honest and don't have the receipt in front of me to quote from).
Bottom line is I did all this, because the body and interior were pretty much mint for a 10 year old ride. So less than say $1500 gets you a new (used) motor and peace of mind assuming your mechanic will do this for you as well. Wouldn't hurt to enquire. Just a thought in case you were interested... Car's running great still (knock on wood) and hopefully will get plenty more miles out of it since I know the entire history of the engine and all...
All this was from memory so if you want specifics let me know, but I do know they will ship engine to anywhere in US. Cost was a lot less than going and buying another unkown vehicle...

Oh yea, I also have put a new $11 klean screen gasket between the EGR and manifold...

yea i was thinking of maybe purchasing another engine. car is 11 years old, but still holding up. i put a lot of money into this thing in the 2 years i had it. ALOT of money, like 4000. 4 balljoints, 4 shock, tires, exhaust, idler arm, pitman arm, inner and outter tie rods both sides, cooler lines. had some engine work a while back because my brother ran the car hot and overheated, water pump. but i was looking to get into something newer. probably a 2002. thinking about buying a Grand Cherokee limited that is for sale near me.

Alright, if you don't want it, just bring it over to me, I'll give you what the wrecking yard will give you...LOL

Seriously though, when you checked the connections and all for the CPI did you do it with the upper plenum off? Without starting it and the upper plenum off, get someone to turn the key to the "on" position and you look for gas leaking. Another common area of a faulty injector is where the nozzle tubes connect to the main injector body. Only way to discover this is with the upper plenum off and in the on position, disconnect the injector and fire the injector manually by running a couple of wires from the injector to the battery. All I did was pull a injector harness from a wrecking yard, plugged it in on the CPI injector and completed it at the battery. It fired and a huge amount of gas leaked out. You will not see a leak with just the key in the on position, because the injector does not fire unless you turn it over, but you don't want to do that with the upper plenum off. Cylinders 3 and 4 would be hydrolocked if you had a leak with the CPI because there are small holes in the lower intake that lead to the intake port of those cylinders. If lots of gas was leaking as a result of a bad CPI or lines, the gas would flow through those holes and into those cylinders, causing a hydrolock situation. This could also happen in other cylinders if the injector was bad, you mentioned cylinder 2 having a misfire. Now yes the engine*could* be damaged as a result of hydrolocking, but it takes a lot to bend the rods, thats the gamble. With all the money you said you have in this truck, it sounds really rough to let it go.

yea i hate to get rid of it because of all the money i put into it. i kept all receipts for that day when i was going to sell it, but now with it not starting i doubt someone will even want it now. something that really sucks is thta about 3 months ago i had my car parked in front of my house, and guy came to my door and was like i have an engine for that blazer, want to get rid of it? had i know then what i do now, i would have done it in a heart beat. funny how things work out.

as for getting rid of it, if anyone is close to me and wants a body for a 1995 LS 4X4 and have a way of transporting it then by all means, knock yourself out and take it.

well that day came... getting rid of my 95 blazer. i purchased a 2001 jeep grand cherokee laredo. fully loaded with everything my blazer didnt have haha. bought it off a family friend for a very reasonable price. he lives just down my road and i know that he took car of this car. kept all records of work done. he just had the tranny flushed with a new filter, oil changed, tune up, o2 sensors and other things right before he sold it to me.

im just writing in here to thank everyone for all the help they gave me in the last two years i was a member here. you all have great knowledge and it has helped tremedously. i might just have to stop back in if i have a question about my jeep, if you allow me of course ha. thanks again guys.....

Infidel! Defiler of all that is Holy Chevy! We shall Jihad!

J/K... Hope you still come around though!

Good Luck with your Jeep, You Trader.........

sorry guys, ha. blazer was great. it has 202000 miles on it and can be fixed. and frankly, should be fixed. but i just wanted something more reliable. i would have bought a newer blazer but this guy gave me a great deal on this.

take it easy rlith, you are buying my old blazer!!!!!!! haha