d16y8 build questions

Ok, i've got a 98 civic with a JRSC on it. She's starting to burn oil and i've got an oil leak somewhere as well. So, it's about time to have the motor rebuilt. When I take the motor to get rebuilt, is there anything special I should ask for? Like should I get it bored? If so, how much. New pistons? Rods?

Now, keep in mind that i'm not trying to make the car any faster, I just want it to be more reliable and not use oil. And as far as my budget goes i'm willing to put maybe $1500 into it. And please no "just swap the motor" i'm not willing to go through all that.





1998 Honda Civic EX -- Si Wing -- Jackson Racing Supercharger -- High Flow Fuel Rail -- Enkei RP07 18inch Rims -- Yokohama PARADA 215/35ZR/18's -- K&N Filter -- Hurst ShortShifter -- DC Sport Header -- Greddy Cat-Back Exhaust -- DC Strut Tie Bar -- Xenon Headlight Bulbs -- Front Grill -- Eibach Springs with Ground Control Coil Overs -- Ingalls Rear Camber Kit Arms -- Skunk2 Front Camber Kits -- Panasonic DF88 CD Player -- Two 1Farrett Caps -- Sony Xplod 800W Amp -- SPL Series II 1200W Amp -- Solo Baric 15

if you want to up the boost on your JRSC w/o worrying about it, you could get better rods and low comp piston heads.....bored is up to you...i wouldn't do it personally because i think the gain per dollar would be kinda low....

I've looked at the JRSC and as I understand them to work, they only boost when it's needed, not constantly like a turbo (if im wrong, please correct me, but I some how remember reading something about that on their web page) And as they describe it, it's safer for stock motors. It may very well be cheaper to rebuilt it to stock than to use aftermarket stuff. You will need to hone the cylinders, which makes them perfectly round again, because they get almost oval after all those miles, but that doesnt mean you need to bore them. In fact, I'd almost recommend NOT boring them, because that will cost alot in both money and time in the long run.

If it were my car, I would rebuilt it to stock conditions, regardless of where i got the parts from (aftermarket vs. honda). The new rings, and such should provide you with many more thousands of miles for that motor.

if you have the money rods and pistons is the best insurance

If you don't want to spend money on pistons and rods, be sure you got all bearings rings and gaskets replaced with good brand name parts, and doble chec for clearances...

Any kinds of boosting, whether it is turbo or sc, obviously increases compressions ratio. IMO high compression is the issue that you need to address with a boosted motor. If you increase the displacement by getting dished piston, then you will lower the compression ratio. That will help as far as the engine wear. But if you want to keep the stock setting, then you should invest in things that holds the compression.

1. Head studs, probably ARP.
2. Better head gasket
3. New rings of course. But check your piston and cylinder wear first. Depending on how they look, you might actually want or need to bore you cylinder. Then get the ones that matches your pistons.

New connecting rods might be bonus, but I don't thing you need it.
Also check your pcv valve. Faster rev means higher crankcase pressure. You need to relieve that otherwise you get gasket failure. Honda PCV valve is just push in type, so you should be able to get a better flowing PCV from places like summit catalogue or JC Whittney. Or your local shop. I have seen some guys just putting a breather cap instead of PCV valve, but it was race application. And it will throw cel if you do that.

Any kinds of boosting, whether it is turbo or sc, obviously increases compressions ratio.


k i just stopped reading after this first sentence. those who continued further plz correct the numerous errors that i know are going to be in this post.

k i just stopped reading after this first sentence. those who continued further plz correct the numerous errors that i know are going to be in this post.

What I meant to say was increase in pressure, not compression ratio. Thanks for the clarification

first off. the compression ratio is a set number, you calculate compression ratio by measurments of certain things. you can calculate compression ratio without having to pump air into the cylinders. a turbo just puts compressed air into the cylinders making for more air, hopefully more fuel, so it makes mroe power.

second, invest in something that holds compression. you sort of make it sound like boosting a car and the head lifts off. alot of people boost on the stock motor and do it safely and effectively. with just a jrsc i dont see the need for headstuds and a better headgasket. but he may need new rings.

for the rods, he said hes willing to put $1500 in it, rods and pistons will come under 1500, shit it will come out to like 800. and the rest he can use to pay someone to built the motor.

and for the pcv, i dont know much about that so no comments on that except that i dont think its going to throw a CEL because on my pcv i dont see any sensor attached to it. he could put a catch can on there if he wants to

first off. the compression ratio is a set number, you calculate compression ratio by measurments of certain things. you can calculate compression ratio without having to pump air into the cylinders. a turbo just puts compressed air into the cylinders making for more air, hopefully more fuel, so it makes mroe power.

second, invest in something that holds compression. you sort of make it sound like boosting a car and the head lifts off. alot of people boost on the stock motor and do it safely and effectively. with just a jrsc i dont see the need for headstuds and a better headgasket. but he may need new rings.

for the rods, he said hes willing to put $1500 in it, rods and pistons will come under 1500, shit it will come out to like 800. and the rest he can use to pay someone to built the motor.

and for the pcv, i dont know much about that so no comments on that except that i dont think its going to throw a CEL because on my pcv i dont see any sensor attached to it. he could put a catch can on there if he wants to

I agree that the compression ratio remains the same. But the actual pressure with the cylinder actually goes up with any forced induction compared to NA engines. Yeah, you're are probably correct that the cylinder head will not blow off with a simple JRSC, but if you are taking off the head anyways, then I would replace the head bolts and the head gasket to something better than the stock. Although the OEM parts might handle the increase in pressure fine, they are only designed to work with the factory spec. I would replace the above mentioned for my sake. And once again, I really don't think there is a reason to replace the pistons and the rods. As long as they fall under spec, then it should be fine. I don't know what you pay for a rebuild, but where I live, it is bit more than $700 for a complete motor rebuild from a reputable shop.

Catch can does not do anything other than catching oil and liquid residue. D16's already have breather chamber and it acts as the catch can anyways. Larger PCV will relieve more pressure from your crankcase, hence easier on your oil seals and gaskets. But if your PCV valve that is tied to the intake is too big, then you can actually create some what of a vacuum leak, and make the mixture lean by introducing more air to the intake. This will throw cel. But normal performace PCV valves should be alright.

go turbo. Get new rods and pistons if you can afford it....it makes for more security. Get a small turbo and don't boost more than 8psi or about 225whp depending on the turbo. If you're not replacing the HG, then get ARP headbolts so you don't float the head and blow the gasket. Other than that..... www.turbod16.com has tons of info!