How to force security problem
weber45ca
12-06-2005, 03:47 PM
I need to do the re-learn for the security light problem.
The problem is that when it fails on its own usually I can't wait and get it done. Is there any way of forcing the security to kick in??
Please suggestions
Thank You
Weber
The problem is that when it fails on its own usually I can't wait and get it done. Is there any way of forcing the security to kick in??
Please suggestions
Thank You
Weber
MT-2500
12-06-2005, 04:50 PM
Year make modle and what kind of key does it have?
Does the light come on and go off when key is turned on or stay on?
Have you checked for codes?
Mt
Does the light come on and go off when key is turned on or stay on?
Have you checked for codes?
Mt
weber45ca
12-07-2005, 08:21 AM
99GA SE v6
I'm not sure what you mean about the keys, it is a regular key with a black plastic where you hold it.
Sometimes the car works ok, it only fails once in a while. Sometimes the security light comes on and off while driving but it keeps going. The problem is when parked and the starting the car, most of the times starts ok, but sometimes the security light comes on and the I have to wait the 10 min.
Thanks
I'm not sure what you mean about the keys, it is a regular key with a black plastic where you hold it.
Sometimes the car works ok, it only fails once in a while. Sometimes the security light comes on and off while driving but it keeps going. The problem is when parked and the starting the car, most of the times starts ok, but sometimes the security light comes on and the I have to wait the 10 min.
Thanks
Degtr
12-07-2005, 09:39 AM
I had that problem as well as other weird electrical issues (gauges and HVAC would die, fog lamps would turn on an off when the switch was in the on position) that I traced back to the ignition switch assembly on my '99 SE. I removed the whole thing, took it apart, cleaned all contacts (which were a mess), and put it back together--everything works perfectly now.
MT-2500
12-07-2005, 10:08 AM
The reason I asked about the key is they use two different types of keys. If the square black key with the pellet in it they give problems with the key switch and key pellets get worn down.
If you have a good spare key try it.
But you need to get it on a scanner and see what is turning on the light. It should show a code. If you can get the code no. post it back.
MT
If you have a good spare key try it.
But you need to get it on a scanner and see what is turning on the light. It should show a code. If you can get the code no. post it back.
MT
crys36
12-07-2005, 10:24 AM
Had this same problem with my Buick. The key gets worn on the little metal chip. The ignition gets worn the same way. They need to make good contact !! I had a new key made that cures the problem temporarily. One bad turn and off go's my security but in my case its only 3 min. Another thing that does help if you don't change the ignition switch ( which will come with new key) is to put the key in kinda slowly ,make sure its in well and a nice soft turn usually gets it going. The jam and turn does'nt give a bad ignition time to set and boom off to security lock. A contact cleaner for electrical- shot in the ignition is another quick fix. Changing Ignitions suck but it sure beats getting stranded. Also my keys are $20 a pop once a year. Good luck with you venture.
crys36
12-07-2005, 10:27 AM
I need to do the re-learn for the security light problem.
The problem is that when it fails on its own usually I can't wait and get it done. Is there any way of forcing the security to kick in??
Please suggestions
Thank You
Weber
Keep jammin in the key and turning till ya get what ya want.......
The problem is that when it fails on its own usually I can't wait and get it done. Is there any way of forcing the security to kick in??
Please suggestions
Thank You
Weber
Keep jammin in the key and turning till ya get what ya want.......
crys36
12-07-2005, 10:28 AM
Whats the other saying "Be careful for what you ask for, you just might get it ".
Hoags
12-07-2005, 10:40 AM
Sounds like you may have a problem with the ignition switch, the security system is not operating properly when you are putting in the key or it is not reading the fact that the key is in place and that could be causing the security light to activate some times while you are driving.
My 2 cents worth I hope it helps.
My 2 cents worth I hope it helps.
raycorri
12-08-2005, 10:30 PM
Sounds like you may have a problem with the ignition switch, the security system is not operating properly when you are putting in the key or it is not reading the fact that the key is in place and that could be causing the security light to activate some times while you are driving.
My 2 cents worth I hope it helps.
My security light started coming on again about a year after paying the dealership $450 to replace a faulty Ignition lock cylinder. I was at my wit’s end. My wife and kids would be stuck at night in some shopping center parking lot waiting 10 minutes to reset the stupid thing. I was able to Bypass, Disable or Ghetto Hack my passlock II anti-theft system on my 2002 Oldsmobile Alero without relays or resistors. I had my local Auto wiring tech install a $5 on/off toggle switch under my dash that is connected into the yellow (key resistance/code/recognition) wire that can be cut while the engine is running to essientially bypass passlock I(1) or II(2) permanently.(I do not have nor intend to install a remote starter and I do not have an alarm on this car.) The toggle switch idea came about because of my concern that a dealership tech could possibly reset the security “fail- enable” mode or the battery could die or become disconnected for an extended period of time and reset the intended fault. All I need to do is flip a switch to break the circuit again while the car is running to take the passlock system offline. When the system is offline, the security light is on constantly.(Not flashing.) I don’t mind the light, but others may want to remove the bulb or black it out. Here’s how the setup works:
1)Switch On while engine is running – Security system is on.(Factory Setting) Security light is off. (Circuit is complete.)
2)Switch Off while engine is running – Security system goes into “fail-enable” mode and bypasses the passlock system.. Security light is illuminated.(Circuit is broken.)
3)Switch On while engine is off – Security system is on (Factory Setting)
4)Switch Off while engine is off – Security system detects this as a theft attempt
and will not allow you to start the car until you flip the switch On to complete the circuit.(Acts as a FUEL KILL SWITCH.)
Below you will find a thread and some supporting evidence of why this bypass actually works. The entire job took 25 minutes. There is an incredible link below with high resolution pictures of the wiring for your specific car. I included the actual photos that I used to gain access to my ignition lock cylinder wiring. *Special note: those with GM Class II Data Bus should leave your radio connected during the entire procedure so nothing weird happens. If you are unsure if your car is so equipped, it’s best to leave the radio connected and let it hang. Good luck and post with your success stories! 12/4/05
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?TID=59694&PN=1&TPN=1 Is this You? Get in your car....try to start it and find that the passlock II is screwed up again, you have to wait 10 minutes for it to reset. When it resets it starts up and runs fine. Fix-------Start the car, find the yellow wire that I'm sure you've read about, the rcode wire that is, and cut it. Shut off the car and you're done! The rcode wire on my 2001 alero is behind and to the left of the radio, you must take out the radio.....the yellow wire accompanies two other wires, the white and black, the 3 wires are alone and run inside what appears to be a cheap electrical tape that will fall apart in your hand when you start tugging on it, they are very thin wires, maybe 18 to 22. I taped off both ends of the yellow wire too.Took me about 14 days to find this out and reading no exageration 1000 posts. Forget all the relay, DEI and resister crap that I'm sure you've read about. All this writing assumes that this will continue to work.....i WILL be back here to post an update if it fails again. If you have doubts of me coming back to update a failure you can email me
http://www.insurorsservicebureau.com/ISB%20technical/ISB_QA.pdf page 4, The PASS Key Module also has the ability to allow engine operation if it recognizes a system fault in the ignition key reference circuit while the engine is running. In this case the Module enters and remains in a mode which allows the engine to be started and run without reading the resistance chip. This mode requires that the original factory resistance chip key be in the ignition lock
cylinder at the time the fault occurs. During this mode, the
security light will be ON all the time. When the key reference circuit is repaired, the module will automatically reprogram itself to the mode requiring the original resistance chip.
http://www.motorage.com/motorage/data/articlestandard/motorage/292005/169809/article.pdf page 3, If the correct key is in the cylinder and that circuit
fails while the engine is running, this is considered a
malfunction, not a theft attempt. The “Security” light
may turn on to warn of a system malfunction, but even if
it doesn’t, a key recognition circuit failure with the proper
key in the lock will cause the TDM to enter what GM
calls a “fail-enable” mode. Essentially, the theft-deterrent
system goes offline and the engine will start and run
with any key that turns the lock.
http://www.directwholesale.net/diagrams/Images.asp?ImageID=84&link=BULLDOG
http://www.directwholesale.net/diagrams/Images.asp?ImageID=87&link=BULLDOG
http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/ and click on vehicle wiring diagrams to select your particular make.
Also how to disable Daytime Running Lamps http://www.lightsout.org/disable.html
2001 Olds Alero Locate the DRL relay in the main fuse box under the hood, it is #22 corresponding to the diagram on the underside of the fuse box cover. Remove the relay, snip pin 87, and re-insert.
Here's the definitive thread on Passlock with the procedure to add the modification toggle switch: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=454520
My 2 cents worth I hope it helps.
My security light started coming on again about a year after paying the dealership $450 to replace a faulty Ignition lock cylinder. I was at my wit’s end. My wife and kids would be stuck at night in some shopping center parking lot waiting 10 minutes to reset the stupid thing. I was able to Bypass, Disable or Ghetto Hack my passlock II anti-theft system on my 2002 Oldsmobile Alero without relays or resistors. I had my local Auto wiring tech install a $5 on/off toggle switch under my dash that is connected into the yellow (key resistance/code/recognition) wire that can be cut while the engine is running to essientially bypass passlock I(1) or II(2) permanently.(I do not have nor intend to install a remote starter and I do not have an alarm on this car.) The toggle switch idea came about because of my concern that a dealership tech could possibly reset the security “fail- enable” mode or the battery could die or become disconnected for an extended period of time and reset the intended fault. All I need to do is flip a switch to break the circuit again while the car is running to take the passlock system offline. When the system is offline, the security light is on constantly.(Not flashing.) I don’t mind the light, but others may want to remove the bulb or black it out. Here’s how the setup works:
1)Switch On while engine is running – Security system is on.(Factory Setting) Security light is off. (Circuit is complete.)
2)Switch Off while engine is running – Security system goes into “fail-enable” mode and bypasses the passlock system.. Security light is illuminated.(Circuit is broken.)
3)Switch On while engine is off – Security system is on (Factory Setting)
4)Switch Off while engine is off – Security system detects this as a theft attempt
and will not allow you to start the car until you flip the switch On to complete the circuit.(Acts as a FUEL KILL SWITCH.)
Below you will find a thread and some supporting evidence of why this bypass actually works. The entire job took 25 minutes. There is an incredible link below with high resolution pictures of the wiring for your specific car. I included the actual photos that I used to gain access to my ignition lock cylinder wiring. *Special note: those with GM Class II Data Bus should leave your radio connected during the entire procedure so nothing weird happens. If you are unsure if your car is so equipped, it’s best to leave the radio connected and let it hang. Good luck and post with your success stories! 12/4/05
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?TID=59694&PN=1&TPN=1 Is this You? Get in your car....try to start it and find that the passlock II is screwed up again, you have to wait 10 minutes for it to reset. When it resets it starts up and runs fine. Fix-------Start the car, find the yellow wire that I'm sure you've read about, the rcode wire that is, and cut it. Shut off the car and you're done! The rcode wire on my 2001 alero is behind and to the left of the radio, you must take out the radio.....the yellow wire accompanies two other wires, the white and black, the 3 wires are alone and run inside what appears to be a cheap electrical tape that will fall apart in your hand when you start tugging on it, they are very thin wires, maybe 18 to 22. I taped off both ends of the yellow wire too.Took me about 14 days to find this out and reading no exageration 1000 posts. Forget all the relay, DEI and resister crap that I'm sure you've read about. All this writing assumes that this will continue to work.....i WILL be back here to post an update if it fails again. If you have doubts of me coming back to update a failure you can email me
http://www.insurorsservicebureau.com/ISB%20technical/ISB_QA.pdf page 4, The PASS Key Module also has the ability to allow engine operation if it recognizes a system fault in the ignition key reference circuit while the engine is running. In this case the Module enters and remains in a mode which allows the engine to be started and run without reading the resistance chip. This mode requires that the original factory resistance chip key be in the ignition lock
cylinder at the time the fault occurs. During this mode, the
security light will be ON all the time. When the key reference circuit is repaired, the module will automatically reprogram itself to the mode requiring the original resistance chip.
http://www.motorage.com/motorage/data/articlestandard/motorage/292005/169809/article.pdf page 3, If the correct key is in the cylinder and that circuit
fails while the engine is running, this is considered a
malfunction, not a theft attempt. The “Security” light
may turn on to warn of a system malfunction, but even if
it doesn’t, a key recognition circuit failure with the proper
key in the lock will cause the TDM to enter what GM
calls a “fail-enable” mode. Essentially, the theft-deterrent
system goes offline and the engine will start and run
with any key that turns the lock.
http://www.directwholesale.net/diagrams/Images.asp?ImageID=84&link=BULLDOG
http://www.directwholesale.net/diagrams/Images.asp?ImageID=87&link=BULLDOG
http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/ and click on vehicle wiring diagrams to select your particular make.
Also how to disable Daytime Running Lamps http://www.lightsout.org/disable.html
2001 Olds Alero Locate the DRL relay in the main fuse box under the hood, it is #22 corresponding to the diagram on the underside of the fuse box cover. Remove the relay, snip pin 87, and re-insert.
Here's the definitive thread on Passlock with the procedure to add the modification toggle switch: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=454520
Hoags
12-09-2005, 03:38 AM
I'm supprised that didn't mess with the computer, I'm glad you found something that worked, it sounds like you actually have more control of you security.
xeroinfinity
12-09-2005, 09:39 AM
Sounds like a damn headache to me :banghead: And alot of time. Might as well went to a salvage yard a picked up a used parts or two.
My security features :screwy: too. I just make sure the key is all the way in before i turn it. Hell my ignitions so worn I can take the key out while its running. If I get to far away, it does die and the security light flashes. i just stick the key in and it fires right up.
My better half has like a hundred keys on her key chain, and it wont always start for her, think the wieght pulls the conection loose when the key needs to make contact. just my :2cents:
My security features :screwy: too. I just make sure the key is all the way in before i turn it. Hell my ignitions so worn I can take the key out while its running. If I get to far away, it does die and the security light flashes. i just stick the key in and it fires right up.
My better half has like a hundred keys on her key chain, and it wont always start for her, think the wieght pulls the conection loose when the key needs to make contact. just my :2cents:
raycorri
12-09-2005, 06:23 PM
Sounds like a damn headache to me :banghead: And alot of time. Might as well went to a salvage yard a picked up a used parts or two.
My security features :screwy: too. I just make sure the key is all the way in before i turn it. Hell my ignitions so worn I can take the key out while its running. If I get to far away, it does die and the security light flashes. i just stick the key in and it fires right up.
My better half has like a hundred keys on her key chain, and it wont always start for her, think the wieght pulls the conection loose when the key needs to make contact. just my :2cents:
In my opinion, used parts won't solve the problem either because they will just fail like the new part that I put on. There are literally thousands of posts on the internet of people with these same ignition lock cylinder problems. The N-body cars seem to be the leaders.(Malibu, Alero, Grand-Am) Yeah, I can see where this might seem a bit involved.... but it's really not. I just wanted to follow up with evidence of how it works. The quick simple fix is just to cut the yellow wire and tape up both ends. I took a screwdriver to pop the cover from around the stereo and took out 4 screws. Then, pulled out the stereo. The 3 wires from the ignition are right there on the left. Start the car and cut the yellow wire. That's it. You won't have to replace the ignition lock cylinder until it falls apart. I don't have to worry about my wife and kids being stuck somewhere. I certainly didn't mean for it to come across as being complicated at all. Enevitably, someone will ask why this works.
My security features :screwy: too. I just make sure the key is all the way in before i turn it. Hell my ignitions so worn I can take the key out while its running. If I get to far away, it does die and the security light flashes. i just stick the key in and it fires right up.
My better half has like a hundred keys on her key chain, and it wont always start for her, think the wieght pulls the conection loose when the key needs to make contact. just my :2cents:
In my opinion, used parts won't solve the problem either because they will just fail like the new part that I put on. There are literally thousands of posts on the internet of people with these same ignition lock cylinder problems. The N-body cars seem to be the leaders.(Malibu, Alero, Grand-Am) Yeah, I can see where this might seem a bit involved.... but it's really not. I just wanted to follow up with evidence of how it works. The quick simple fix is just to cut the yellow wire and tape up both ends. I took a screwdriver to pop the cover from around the stereo and took out 4 screws. Then, pulled out the stereo. The 3 wires from the ignition are right there on the left. Start the car and cut the yellow wire. That's it. You won't have to replace the ignition lock cylinder until it falls apart. I don't have to worry about my wife and kids being stuck somewhere. I certainly didn't mean for it to come across as being complicated at all. Enevitably, someone will ask why this works.
xeroinfinity
12-09-2005, 10:09 PM
I see what your saying thier raycorri . Stuck wife&kids is no good! That'll catch you hell for a week or two. :lol:
Thier is a recall on some of those GA's. Check it out here. Has most cars listed, its a nice place.
http://www.internetautoguide.com/auto-recalls/index.html
Thier is a recall on some of those GA's. Check it out here. Has most cars listed, its a nice place.
http://www.internetautoguide.com/auto-recalls/index.html
nova_gh
12-12-2005, 10:16 PM
put a battery cut-out switch inline with the + end of your battery. When the light comes on, flip the switch, wait a sec to discharge, reset. Away you go. $13 at O'Reily's Auto. I ended up getting a new lock cylinder for mine cause i got p.o. at it and got my key jammed in it, i took my battery switch out cause i've never had problems with it since. This part to replaced yourself, and without being able to turn the key (which you HAVE to be able to shift into Neutral) will take several hours. Heres the trick boys and girls, don't buy a Pontiac lock cylinder. Ask for a Chevy Malibu lock cylinder. Thats what i've got in my GA right now, no problems. The Malibus I've yet to read anything about security problems, and its the same freakin' lock cylinder.
cabela
05-03-2006, 02:42 PM
Hello, I have 01 Olds AleroI have the following problem.I've had the problem of not starting, but now, my car starts everytime I want... my security lamp is ALWAYS on, so I assume, that the circuit is somhow broken on its own while I was driving. I imagine to fix the circuit and put a switch ON/OFF so I can control everything. BUt I dont know what to check and how to fix my circuit. I mean, what can be broken by itself so my car works perfectly, but if I have a bad battery, I imagine that I will never start again. I want to fix it. And can you please tell me how to remove the dashboard, because it stucks and I cant apart it ( the board with A/C on it )?Thank you in advance.
MT-2500
05-03-2006, 06:26 PM
Hello, I have 01 Olds AleroI have the following problem.I've had the problem of not starting, but now, my car starts everytime I want... my security lamp is ALWAYS on, so I assume, that the circuit is somhow broken on its own while I was driving. I imagine to fix the circuit and put a switch ON/OFF so I can control everything. BUt I dont know what to check and how to fix my circuit. I mean, what can be broken by itself so my car works perfectly, but if I have a bad battery, I imagine that I will never start again. I want to fix it. And can you please tell me how to remove the dashboard, because it stucks and I cant apart it ( the board with A/C on it )?Thank you in advance.
Welcome to af on your first post.
You should be able to get this one on a scanner and get the body/eng computer codes.
Any after market remote starts or alarms?
It would be better to start a new post in the alero form on this one.
MT
Welcome to af on your first post.
You should be able to get this one on a scanner and get the body/eng computer codes.
Any after market remote starts or alarms?
It would be better to start a new post in the alero form on this one.
MT
cabela
05-03-2006, 11:20 PM
Well there is no alarm or remotes.
I wonder - How can I scan my alero ?
I read something about AutoTap ? Can I scan my car for free ? or wht is the most chepest way to scan it ?
I was just hoping helping me with removing dashboard....
so I can take a look at lock cylinder and see the contacts and mesure with digital multimeter resistant between yellow and black wire.
I mean - there must be no problem at all. I want to install a switch, but I want to be sure that after rebooting the battery - I will still be able to start. Because now - I'm not sure !
So how to take a closer look at the lock cylinder and these Yellow and Black wire for the passlock ?
I wonder - How can I scan my alero ?
I read something about AutoTap ? Can I scan my car for free ? or wht is the most chepest way to scan it ?
I was just hoping helping me with removing dashboard....
so I can take a look at lock cylinder and see the contacts and mesure with digital multimeter resistant between yellow and black wire.
I mean - there must be no problem at all. I want to install a switch, but I want to be sure that after rebooting the battery - I will still be able to start. Because now - I'm not sure !
So how to take a closer look at the lock cylinder and these Yellow and Black wire for the passlock ?
MT-2500
05-04-2006, 02:07 PM
Well there is no alarm or remotes.
I wonder - How can I scan my alero ?
I read something about AutoTap ? Can I scan my car for free ? or wht is the most chepest way to scan it ?
I was just hoping helping me with removing dashboard....
so I can take a look at lock cylinder and see the contacts and mesure with digital multimeter resistant between yellow and black wire.
I mean - there must be no problem at all. I want to install a switch, but I want to be sure that after rebooting the battery - I will still be able to start. Because now - I'm not sure !
So how to take a closer look at the lock cylinder and these Yellow and Black wire for the passlock ?
You need to repost post in the chev alero forum for better/more help.
But to get it scanned for codes some auto parts places do it for free.
But Use Caution when getting the free code checks please.
Some parts places do offer free code checks. And also free repair advice. But beware. Just get the code no and post it back here and someone will help you.
They offer the free code checks in the hope of increasing there parts sales.
Almost all of them will also offer mechanical advice and some know what they are doing.
But just remember most of them are parts people pulling codes for free.
Not trained professional tech/mechanics. Even if they pull a 02-sensor code or another sensor related code it does always mean to replace that sensor and your problem will be fixed.
Please just get the code no and post it back here and we will help you.
I wonder - How can I scan my alero ?
I read something about AutoTap ? Can I scan my car for free ? or wht is the most chepest way to scan it ?
I was just hoping helping me with removing dashboard....
so I can take a look at lock cylinder and see the contacts and mesure with digital multimeter resistant between yellow and black wire.
I mean - there must be no problem at all. I want to install a switch, but I want to be sure that after rebooting the battery - I will still be able to start. Because now - I'm not sure !
So how to take a closer look at the lock cylinder and these Yellow and Black wire for the passlock ?
You need to repost post in the chev alero forum for better/more help.
But to get it scanned for codes some auto parts places do it for free.
But Use Caution when getting the free code checks please.
Some parts places do offer free code checks. And also free repair advice. But beware. Just get the code no and post it back here and someone will help you.
They offer the free code checks in the hope of increasing there parts sales.
Almost all of them will also offer mechanical advice and some know what they are doing.
But just remember most of them are parts people pulling codes for free.
Not trained professional tech/mechanics. Even if they pull a 02-sensor code or another sensor related code it does always mean to replace that sensor and your problem will be fixed.
Please just get the code no and post it back here and we will help you.
MT-2500
05-04-2006, 02:12 PM
Well there is no alarm or remotes.
I wonder - How can I scan my alero ?
I read something about AutoTap ? Can I scan my car for free ? or wht is the most chepest way to scan it ?
I was just hoping helping me with removing dashboard....
so I can take a look at lock cylinder and see the contacts and mesure with digital multimeter resistant between yellow and black wire.
I mean - there must be no problem at all. I want to install a switch, but I want to be sure that after rebooting the battery - I will still be able to start. Because now - I'm not sure !
So how to take a closer look at the lock cylinder and these Yellow and Black wire for the passlock ?
If the switch is in the steering column.
Just remove lower dash panel and you will see the wires on steering column.
But the switch contacts or what ever are a different story.
First you need to know what anti theft system you have.
I wonder - How can I scan my alero ?
I read something about AutoTap ? Can I scan my car for free ? or wht is the most chepest way to scan it ?
I was just hoping helping me with removing dashboard....
so I can take a look at lock cylinder and see the contacts and mesure with digital multimeter resistant between yellow and black wire.
I mean - there must be no problem at all. I want to install a switch, but I want to be sure that after rebooting the battery - I will still be able to start. Because now - I'm not sure !
So how to take a closer look at the lock cylinder and these Yellow and Black wire for the passlock ?
If the switch is in the steering column.
Just remove lower dash panel and you will see the wires on steering column.
But the switch contacts or what ever are a different story.
First you need to know what anti theft system you have.
cabela
05-04-2006, 02:41 PM
It is not a different story guys.
I have the problem with security. As I read in the forum there should be instlled switch that cuts and closes the Yellow line from the Lock Cylinder, so the computer goes in Fail-Enable mode. and the Security Lamp is ALWAYS on.
Since something happened , my computer went to Fail-Enable mode on itself, without forcing it to do so. I disassemple dashboard and get the 3 wires yellow,black,white. I will install that switch. All that I'm wondering is - why since I have no switch - my car goes to fail-enable mode and security is ALWAYS ON.? I'll go to free scanning. Can somebody tells me where can I found one - I'm in Washington DC ? Somewhere near me ? Or a website ?
I have the problem with security. As I read in the forum there should be instlled switch that cuts and closes the Yellow line from the Lock Cylinder, so the computer goes in Fail-Enable mode. and the Security Lamp is ALWAYS on.
Since something happened , my computer went to Fail-Enable mode on itself, without forcing it to do so. I disassemple dashboard and get the 3 wires yellow,black,white. I will install that switch. All that I'm wondering is - why since I have no switch - my car goes to fail-enable mode and security is ALWAYS ON.? I'll go to free scanning. Can somebody tells me where can I found one - I'm in Washington DC ? Somewhere near me ? Or a website ?
MT-2500
05-04-2006, 03:21 PM
Look for a auto zone store and some others do it to call or ask them.
If the car is tripping the security light it has a problem.
It would be best to find the problem and see if you can fix it.
If you can get a code it will point you to the problem.
Good Luck MT.
If the car is tripping the security light it has a problem.
It would be best to find the problem and see if you can fix it.
If you can get a code it will point you to the problem.
Good Luck MT.
cabela
05-25-2006, 03:29 PM
Hi, I called Auto Zone Store support
and they said they do not offer Free Code Check ?
Can you give me someone that can make a free code check ? so I can go there and find where the problem is !
Thanks in advance.
and they said they do not offer Free Code Check ?
Can you give me someone that can make a free code check ? so I can go there and find where the problem is !
Thanks in advance.
cabela
06-05-2006, 03:29 PM
Hello again,
I bought a scanner tool - actron - CP9125
which reads/erases DTC codes from car.
Unfortunatelly - IT says - 0 Codes. IT shows that everything is JUST FINE and my car has no problems. I feel strange. My security lamp is ALWAYS on, and DTC has no error code ?
Can someone tell me what to do ?
I bought a scanner tool - actron - CP9125
which reads/erases DTC codes from car.
Unfortunatelly - IT says - 0 Codes. IT shows that everything is JUST FINE and my car has no problems. I feel strange. My security lamp is ALWAYS on, and DTC has no error code ?
Can someone tell me what to do ?
MT-2500
06-05-2006, 03:54 PM
Hello again,
I bought a scanner tool - actron - CP9125
which reads/erases DTC codes from car.
Unfortunatelly - IT says - 0 Codes. IT shows that everything is JUST FINE and my car has no problems. I feel strange. My security lamp is ALWAYS on, and DTC has no error code ?
Can someone tell me what to do ?
You will need a scanner that is capable of reading body codes.
Check your specs on the scanner and see if it just reads obd11 codes or susposed to read body codes.
MT
I bought a scanner tool - actron - CP9125
which reads/erases DTC codes from car.
Unfortunatelly - IT says - 0 Codes. IT shows that everything is JUST FINE and my car has no problems. I feel strange. My security lamp is ALWAYS on, and DTC has no error code ?
Can someone tell me what to do ?
You will need a scanner that is capable of reading body codes.
Check your specs on the scanner and see if it just reads obd11 codes or susposed to read body codes.
MT
cabela
06-05-2006, 11:23 PM
It is supposed to read BODY CODES:
this is the user's manual
http://www.actron.com/publish/2005/01/19/pdf_english_16298.pdf
and it says:
Body Codes
B0xxx - Generic (SAE)
B1xxx - Manufcturer Specific
B2xxx - Manufacture Specific
B3xxx - Generic (SAE)
So this is for body codes.
Since the tool showed me no errors, I'm wondering. Is it possible - that EVERYTHING with my car is just fine, and just lamp is ON ?
So maybe if I restart the computer by removing the battery for 15-20 minutes will just stop that SECURITY lamp from turning on.
I read that if my car is in Fail-Safe mode with security lamp on, when the battery is out - the will be no more able to start ?
I'm a little scared about this option.
Can somebody help me ? If it is in fail safe mode shouldnt I receive an error with my scan tool ? Since there is no error - is this possible - not having error, but security lamp is always on ?
this is the user's manual
http://www.actron.com/publish/2005/01/19/pdf_english_16298.pdf
and it says:
Body Codes
B0xxx - Generic (SAE)
B1xxx - Manufcturer Specific
B2xxx - Manufacture Specific
B3xxx - Generic (SAE)
So this is for body codes.
Since the tool showed me no errors, I'm wondering. Is it possible - that EVERYTHING with my car is just fine, and just lamp is ON ?
So maybe if I restart the computer by removing the battery for 15-20 minutes will just stop that SECURITY lamp from turning on.
I read that if my car is in Fail-Safe mode with security lamp on, when the battery is out - the will be no more able to start ?
I'm a little scared about this option.
Can somebody help me ? If it is in fail safe mode shouldnt I receive an error with my scan tool ? Since there is no error - is this possible - not having error, but security lamp is always on ?
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