What's the BEST oil and filter?

Thanks, for we all learnt a lesson.
Wayne

I question the technique because it is new and the link that BlazerLT offered talked more about "bike" racing engines. It did say you can do it on new cars, but I didn't see any testimony or results on a stock engine broke in this way as oppposed to a stock engine broke in the traditional way. I'd like to see those comparions before jumping on ship.

To me, it's kind of like the "turbonator" or "electric supercharger" they have there testimonies and bs dyno charts, but they are still crap!

I question the technique because it is new and the link that BlazerLT offered talked more about "bike" racing engines. It did say you can do it on new cars, but I didn't see any testimony or results on a stock engine broke in this way as oppposed to a stock engine broke in the traditional way. I'd like to see those comparions before jumping on ship.

To me, it's kind of like the "turbonator" or "electric supercharger" they have there testimonies and bs dyno charts, but they are still crap!

How do you think they break in some engines in at the factory? Sit them on the engine dyno and lightly drive them for 3000miles? Every Ferrari, Lamborghini, BMW M3, High end Mercedes engines are broken in at the factory EXACTLY the same way. No easy break in, they flog them for a short period of time, check the compression increase and call it a day.

It is not for bike engines, this method has been used for years and with ZERO failures. Bike engines work exactly the same way as any other 4 stroke engine does.

They are actually worked harder than car engines so if they don't fail, neither would ours....EVER.

Comparing this method to the turbonator and electric supercharger is an amazingly ignorant, opinionated, and factless thing to say.

They are a scam trying to sell you a product.

Anyone trying to sell you a product here???....Nope

How do you think they break in some engines in at the factory? Sit them on the engine dyno and lightly drive them for 3000miles? Every Ferrari, Lamborghini, BMW M3, High end Mercedes engines are broken in at the factory EXACTLY the same way. No easy break in, they flog them for a short period of time, check the compression increase and call it a day.And the neon engine fits in this class???? Now thats ignorance of I ever saw it.

It is not for bike engines
Copied and pasted from the link your provided..."Street or Race Motorcycles" and "These same break in techniques apply to both steel cylinders and Nikasil, as well as the ceramic composite cylinders that Yamaha uses in it's motorcycles and snowmobiles."

And again where is the comparison between the same stock engine broke in this way versus the conventional (old) way????

And the neon engine fits in this class???? Now thats ignorance of I ever saw it.

You said it was only meant for bikes and that is incorrect. And from what I remember, we drive 4 stroke engines right?

So yes they are the same class.


Copied and pasted from the link your provided..."Street or Race Motorcycles" and "These same break in techniques apply to both steel cylinders and Nikasil, as well as the ceramic composite cylinders that Yamaha uses in it's motorcycles and snowmobiles."

Also from the link I posted

"Although the examples shown here are motorcycle engines,
these principles apply to all 4 stroke engines:

Street or Race Motorcycles, Cars, Snowmobiles, Airplanes & yes ...
even Lawn Mowers !!
( regardless of brand, cooling type, or number of cylinders. )"

And again where is the comparison between the same stock engine broke in this way versus the conventional (old) way????

And where is your proof that it is a scam?

You said it was only meant for bikes and that is incorrect. I said it talked about motorcycle engines MORE, not only!!!

And from what I remember, we drive 4 stroke engines right?
So yes they are the same class.WOW, so a Yugo engine is right up there with a Ferrari engine!!! Damn people buying Ferrari's, BMW's, Mercedes' are just plain dumb then!!! They shouldn't pay the extra money for a highly designed and enginneered engine when they can get a cheap one from Yugo or a Daewoo one. huh? Since they are all 4 stroke, they MUST all work and be the same!!!

And where is your proof that it is a scam?I just want proof that its better, not someone's "WORD" that it is!

Why don't you simmer downa bit here.

You are a moderator and should act accordingly and not pulling this childish mocking attitude.

I guess you have a difference of opinion with me and that is fine, but don't tell me that what I put across as a method to be a SCAM. That is insulting. With over 12,000 posts here I dont' peddle scams, I try to show people a different way to do things and do my research.

And for cripes sake, I never said that a ferrari engine was the same as a Yugo, I said THEY ARE BOTH FOUR STROKE ENGINES. But for some reason you infer that I am comparing a hatchback engine to a super car which is flat out moronic.

Regardless, this is off topic, I am not going to go off topic from this thread anymore seeing it is not fair to everyone else, it is about oil and filters, not engine break in.

I guess you have a difference of opinion with me and that is fine, but don't tell me that what I put across as a method to be a SCAM. That is insulting. With over 12,000 posts here I dont' peddle scams, I try to show people a different way to do things and do my research.Post count is irrelevant to me...you "could" be a postwhore for all I know, so that doesn't mean much.

I didn't say it was a scam, just that it reminded me of the other things I mentioned. I WANT PROOF of there findings, thats all. Give me specs on the same brand new engine broke in both ways and show how one is superior to the other, thats all. Until then I will continued to break in my cars, just as I have my neon with currently over 288,000 miles on the clock and still going strong!

Ok!

Now back to the topic at hand which is oil and filters!

LT Blazer,

I've been away for awhile. Boy, what a hornet's nest you stirred up!

But I'm with you on break-in procedures. For decades now, factory people have told me the brand new cars loaned out for journalist road tests (which are flogged mercilessly on drag strips and high speed runs) come back running freer and better than those broken in more "normally". And they have virtually identical life expectancies.

I guess the happy medium is don't abuse them, but DRIVE 'em!

Like I said , drive the hell out of it and when it breaks down, explain to that little on board computor and the dealer that will show it all that you just blew up your powertrain, because I was a jerk.
Good luck, and I hope your rich.

Like I said , drive the hell out of it and when it breaks down, explain to that little on board computor and the dealer that will show it all that you just blew up your powertrain, because I was a jerk.
Good luck, and I hope your rich.

1.) Who said we were going to drive the hell out of it? I know I didn't. 5-10 full throttle runs from 20-80mph to seat the rings is not thrashing it. Not like we are taking it to the raceway to race a circuit.

And what is going to break down? That's right....nothing.

2.) And what onboard computer, there is no such computer that keeps a record of your driving habits. There is no such thing. Trying to scare people with bullshit are you? Yip.......

3.) Calling people jerks because they practise this method doesn't make them jerks. We aren't a bunch of boy racer ricers that will be doing this between stop lights for cripes sakes so get over it.

Good luck, and I hope your rich.

It is you're, not your.

But overall, it is your choice, I guess I will be a jerk and have my engine broke in the way I like it.

Your right, you will "broke it in", for sure. As far as your on board computor goes, test it out?
As far as trying to scare people, not me. Just remember the EDR put in most cars for many years. There are many court cases involving them in Canada. What I was trying to say was treat your auto with respect to the type of car, etc. All I know is I ramed my neon in reverse in a snow storm and buggered the the tranny. They knew, I Knew. Forgive my spelling for some people have a problem not due to ignorance. Anyway, wit all respect,
it is a EDR or Black Box. I'm just not to sure nor trust that they have more control over our driving habit's.
And just so you know, at 54, I love to put my car to to it's limit.
Sorry if I offended you, but again I feel we should follow the break in manual as per driving habits.
Also, if I may say, there are so many other powertrain parts that need the same break in periond.
I am talking to the middle class people. Warrenty is what it states.
Just a Dad, always trying to learn, and respect others, for that is how we learn.
Good luck, Wayne
Lets talk about oil, Pleeeeease. Just change your oil and filter as often as possible if you like to give it all.Take the climate, dust, heat all into consideration

Your right, you will "broke it in", for sure. As far as your on board computor goes, test it out?
As far as trying to scare people, not me. Just remember the EDR put in most cars for many years. There are many court cases involving them in Canada. What I was trying to say was treat your auto with respect to the type of car, etc. All I know is I ramed my neon in reverse in a snow storm and buggered the the tranny. They knew, I Knew. Forgive my spelling for some people have a problem not due to ignorance. Anyway, wit all respect,
it is a EDR or Black Box. I'm just not to sure nor trust that they have more control over our driving habit's.
And just so you know, at 54, I love to put my car to to it's limit.
Sorry if I offended you, but again I feel we should follow the break in manual as per driving habits.
Also, if I may say, there are so many other powertrain parts that need the same break in periond.
I am talking to the middle class people. Warrenty is what it states.
Just a Dad, always trying to learn, and respect others, for that is how we learn.
Good luck, Wayne
Lets talk about oil, Pleeeeease. Just change your oil and filter as often as possible if you like to give it all.Take the climate, dust, heat all into consideration

Keep an open mind, you will find out that a lot of things you thought were true are not.

Like the 3000mile oil change which is a scam. People fight so hard to say that 3000mile oil changes are the right way to go when oil today will go 5000miles minimum before it even STARTS to weaken.

I agree, but you do not. so with all respect, we should drop it and move on to more basic problems.
Wayne

I have a completely open mind, hence why I always listen to people and do research before I sprout bullshit like onboard computers that supervise our driving skills and such like you did. You know that is complete bullshit yet you claimed it to be some proven fact to support your claim which in turn is a complete lie.

If you don't know for sure, don't reply.

The onboard computer post shows just how ignorant you are when it comes to automotive technology. Anyone thinking that a computer can see when you put your car in reverse and damaged it needs to get a serious grip on reality and facts.

Did I say, look at you??, Don't think so. Did I say watch you, I think not. Anyway, I have said what is true, and have read lots of your posts. Give it a rest, for your stars just may mean Zip to some.
So give it a break, but I'm sure anyone who does not agree with you will not have the pleasure. Going out to enjoy my week end. Sorry, you have no one to talk to but your own ego.
All respect to people with a open mind.
Advice, don't play with your mouse 24/7 or you might go blind.

OK...this has gone off-topic enough. If you two wanna keep going at each other, please do it thru PM's.

Umm...I believe you took part in this arguement about break in techniques so dont' be a hypocrit and talking about it going off topic when you were essentially part of the problem that took it there.

Also, I called yale329's bullshit about there being computers that monitor our driving habits. I would like to see his proof for this crap.

He just sounds like some ramblin old fart with little knowedge spouting lies and thinking that because is over 50 that would should take it as the truth.

What a joke.

I know but name calling wasn't a part of either of our conversations, so lets get this back on topic like you said..
Ok!
Now back to the topic at hand which is oil and filters!

There was no name calling here.

But anyhoo, on to the topic at hand.

BTW, 3000mile oil changes are ridiculous.

Time to whip up this forum. Come on Blazer, Prove it. I know you think I'm okay??
just adad Wayne

Time to whip up this forum. Come on Blazer, Prove it. I know you think I'm okay??
just adad Wayne

I'm not biting seeing you are just trying to be a troll and start conflisct.

You aren't talking about oil...then shut it.

Yes, just abit, I admit. But on a recent post I was hearing of piston slap, which some think is normal, even for a 2000 neon. I had 60,000 klms on mine when I traded it in, just before the warrenty ran out. Old or not, why should these new cars have this problem. Mine did at about 20, 000 klms, and I used mobil 1 5W30 always, changed about every 7,000 klms.
I am willing to learn and listen so be polite. Any piston slap or noise, going back one hundred years of course, "and That's a Joke", was not normal,
So I'm asking again, truthfully, am I using the best considering + 40, - 45 celcius. I have a new one now and most certainly I want to know.
This has everything to do with oil, but data will not help
Just a Dad Wayne
proof please, sorry.

I have piston slap on my 1998. It is only when it is cold, once it is warmed up you cannot hear it. It is normal and I have even heard a 2004 start up and have it as well. It is a common trait with the 2.0L but doesn't mean it is a bad engine or that anything is going wrong.

Mine has 120,000miles, has piston slap, gets 38MPG on the highway and it is an AUTO. I couldn't believe it. I heard the 5 speed will get good economy but this auto isn't supposed to be so good, but it is.

So back on topic, no, it is not the oil, and the 7000kms was sure as heck not even coming to touching the life of that oil so don't ever think it was ever worn out.

Too bad you sold it really, it probably would have gone over 200,000miles without a hitch if you kept it tuned up and the tranny fluid changed.

Did That, did it all, but to me being older, now on the subject at hand, What is 0w30 and would you recommend it in our climate.
Thanks Blazer. Again though, my old 1990 caravan 3.3 litre that was a great engine, never had that in the coldest weather and had much, much more than 200, 000. klms and still running.
Dad Wayne
Have to edit for I just recieved a few emails from people working in a auto plant.
I do wonder, if they just put one part in a vehicle every day, does that help me in any way.
Wayne

The only 0w30's I would use is the Mobil1 and the Esso XD3 Synthetic 0w30 at the Esso distributors.

Don't use any others.

Mind you, the Mobil1 5w30 has an amazingly low pour point of around -54c or something so I think that is the best bet.

Thanks my friend, I think I will stick with it.
Wayne

Thanks my friend, I think I will stick with it.
WayneTo Blazer, 3 M vacume filter. Come on, get this forum moving. To you to das, I want some info on blue, or yelloe fog lamps.
Just a crazy old bugger, all let Blazer finish the rest. Wayne

To Blazer, 3 M vacume filter. Come on, get this forum moving. To you to das, I want some info on blue, or yelloe fog lamps.
Just a crazy old bugger, all let Blazer finish the rest. Wayne

Put the crack pipe down! :D

What crack ppp-pipe sonny

What crack ppp-pipe sonny
I asked a simple question, but now I want to know how another post got posted without my knowing, with my emai?? And I don't smoke crack although I'm still old enogh to be foolish, and the post was not even funny, but out right unreadable.
Wayne

Well to get back on-topic, I created this post a year ago, and to my amazement it's still getting attention... but I guess we have our answer on the oil - obviously most people prefer the Mobil1 sythetic; since I created this post I've been using the 0w30 with good luck.

And as for the previous quotes on the guy with the '98 who has piston slap when it's cold but still gets 38 mpg with the ATX... Hell mine's an '04, and I get piston slap pretty regularly on a cold start, but it's an MTX and I squeeze 44 mpg out of it, so I understand where he's coming from. Definitely lucky, but a few minor upgrades and basic routine PM's go a long way for any vehicle.

Yea, I keep it tip top. Mileage is getting even better now that I bypassed the AC as well. The AC was shot and wasn't working so I didn't need it.

Car picked up some pep too.

Just out of curiousity, has anyone ran 5W-20 in their 2.0L and if so, what kind of results did you have?

Hey Bud, I'm back and a new grampa to, So anyway I haven't written to hound you. Ihave been using mobile 5w30 synthetic. It's been a truthful -48 out here and I noticed that even that caused a hard start the other day on my PT. Must tell you I did not plug in. Since plugging in is not always a option, any suggestions besides frquent oil changes and a trickle charge.
Wayne

Well one thing I could suggest would be to run 0w-30, which I have been doing this winter because it has been between 0 and -18 degrees here every night. Other than that and keeping your car as warm as possible, not much else off the top of my head!

Oil filters for cars and trucks have around a 10 micron to 40 micron "nominal" rating at best. The only way to find out the beta rating for each filter is to call the company. They are usually willing to provide that information to you. The best rating I have gotten for a filter so far is for the Fram Triple Guard. Your best bet is to install an aftermarket offline filter on your car. These are readily available for a price ranging from $100 up to $500. Believe me, it is worth the investment. By the way can you help find my friend a GM parts with great quality..

I use only Mobil 1 in my car. Runs well for the most part, just has some lifter tick on cold starts.

Mobil 1 has dropped their basestocks from PAO to Group 3 for their 5w30 and up grades.

Only the 0w20 and the 0w30, 0w40 are PAO based and completely synthetic.

Such a shame.

Oh well. At least their filters are good right? :lol2:

My situation(Severe driving conditions to say the least):Rural Mailcarrier-Route 100 miles in length-400 stops-90% gravel(VERY dusty)roads-Vehicles driven-Dodge Spirits-2.5L and 3.0L engines. Started using the Spirits and engines had less than 15,000 miles on them. All had the 3-speed auto trans-BEST ever made!!
Drove them until they had 175,000 miles on them. I changed the oil every 3,000 miles. I did not use synthetic but I used Castrol,Valvoline,Trop Artic or Walmart oil(Yes Walmart oil!). Oil filters that I used was AC Delco,Fram,STP and yes the Walmart oil filter. All engines went at least 160,000 miles before they started using some oil.
The 3.0L held up the best.The 2.5L was the worst and starting it up in the morning it would belch out a "huge" cloud of blue smoke. Tried STP but that was no help. Mechanic told me to try Lucas oil additive and it stopped the blue smoke and slowed down the oil burning. I'm just wondering that if you change your oil&filter every 5,000 miles and use nothing better than a Walmart oil&filter or O'Reilly's oil&filter(Who really makes there oil and filters?) that might be all you need.
Are there product's that much worse than the rest? I really don't know. As far as my "regular" vehicle (02 GMC Envoy)I change my own oil and I use Mobil 1 oil & filter in that engine. Don't drive it that much so I thought I could benefit from synthetic oil.

BlazerLT: you still around? I came across this, which is now an old thread, but have questions about synthetic oil, and zinc reduction (thanks again, EPA), and an oil pre-pressurizer. if you're still around...

Wix makes Carquest's and Napa's oil filters.

Speaking from 17 years of experience useing the product Amsoil is the best for price and performance.