Need instructions for installing oil cooler lines

I need to replace the oil cooler line that connects from the engine block to the oil filter housing. I have accomplished replacing the oil cooler line connecting from the radiator to oil filter housing. Does anyone have any instructions on how to do that?

I need to replace the oil cooler line that connects from the engine block to the oil filter housing. I have accomplished replacing the oil cooler line connecting from the radiator to oil filter housing. Does anyone have any instructions on how to do that?

What year? I have done it in a 92.

Correct me if i'm wrong, but i think the set up is basically the same for all the 4.3's. I've changed them on a 94 and also on my 98.

But changing them isn't hard. On the radiator where the lines enter there are 2 pin clamp thingy's you'll have to take off with a pair of pliers. You will also have like a support about half way down the line you'll have to remove. Then there's one bolt right above your oil filter you'll have to remove. At this point the whole line should just come out. I'm not entirely sure if you have to drain the oil or not but i don't think you do. Just be sure you get the gasket with the new lines. DO NOT use the old one. And common sense would tell you to do this while the engine is cool. it's much easier, i promise. Good luck and hope this helps.

I believe he is talking about the other line from filter to engine block.
I just did this on our 96 Blazer. It wasn't too difficult, but aggrevating. You will need a series of extensions to get at the bolt on the engine block. I came in from the front of the motor. I also had to jack the motor up a bit to get the old line out and slide the new line in, also from the front. I jacked it up with a floor jack and a piece of wood on the oil pan. Probably not the safest or smartest way on an aluminum pan, but it doesn't need to move very much at all. I'm sure if I did it again it wouldn't be nearly as bad as going in blind. Just be sure as you tighten the bolts that everything is lined up properly. I also (finally) used a piece of paper towel in my socket to hold the bolt while I finaggled it back in to the mount.

It's on a 2000 chevy blazer





What year? I have done it in a 92.

thanks 4 the info my chev blazer is a 2000 ill be working on it later on this week id rather do it myself than pay someone 500.00 and change.i was told i will have to jack up the engine an inch or so to get the lines through is that true? oh yeah ill be sure and let it cool down first hahaha thanks paco16

Lt.-Dusty did you take the motor mounts out before you jacked it up and is there some where else besides the oil pan to jack it up on? i know the first question sounds stupid but on my 65 chevy you can jack it up a little without taking out the motor mount bolts thanks LT Dusty.

Hi Paco,

No I did not remove any motormounts. They looked like more trouble to do than changing the Oil line. You might not have to jack the motor at all. It was so close that I only had to put some pressure on the motor to get the new line in. Actually I got the old one out without jacking, but the new one seemed to be just a little larger. I couldn't tell by compairing, but I just couldn't seem to fish it in. I'm sure you could find an other spot to jack that would be a little safer, but like I said you might not have to.

It's on a 2000 chevy blazer


Set up is diffrent than mine. My oil filter is on the driver's side fender. Easy to get too.

I need to replace the oil cooler line that connects from the engine block to the oil filter housing. I have accomplished replacing the oil cooler line connecting from the radiator to oil filter housing. Does anyone have any instructions on how to do that?

Checked the archives, lots of info. I did it 2 years ago based on what I found there. Basically on my 98 I had to put a jack under the engine to lift it about a half inch or so. You do not need to take off the motor mounts or anything else but the oil lines themselves.

Alright Lt Dusty and everyone else whom is trying to help me get this part fixed, I have a problem. The part that I ordered on line is the wrong part. When I talked to the mechanic at the shop I took it to he said I needed to replace the oil cooler lines. When I started checking into parts I had a couple places ask me if they were the upper or lower oil cooler lines. When I asked the mechanic he said it was 2 lines... one from the motor mount to the oil housing and the other from the oil housing to the radiator. Does anyone know where I can get the correct lines that he's talking about? disturbed and disgusted paco16
:banghead:

Set up is diffrent than mine. My oil filter is on the driver's side fender. Easy to get too.



Alright Lt Dusty and everyone else whom is trying to help me get this part fixed, I have a problem. The part that I ordered on line is the wrong part. When I talked to the mechanic at the shop I took it to he said I needed to replace the oil cooler lines. When I started checking into parts I had a couple places ask me if they were the upper or lower oil cooler lines. When I asked the mechanic he said it was 2 lines... one from the motor mount to the oil housing and the other from the oil housing to the radiator. Does anyone know where I can get the correct lines that he's talking about? disturbed and disgusted paco16
:banghead:

Checked the archives, lots of info. I did it 2 years ago based on what I found there. Basically on my 98 I had to put a jack under the engine to lift it about a half inch or so. You do not need to take off the motor mounts or anything else but the oil lines themselves.
Alright Lt Dusty and everyone else whom is trying to help me get this part fixed, I have a problem. The part that I ordered on line is the wrong part. When I talked to the mechanic at the shop I took it to he said I needed to replace the oil cooler lines. When I started checking into parts I had a couple places ask me if they were the upper or lower oil cooler lines. When I asked the mechanic he said it was 2 lines... one from the motor mount to the oil housing and the other from the oil housing to the radiator. Does anyone know where I can get the correct lines that he's talking about? disturbed and disgusted paco16
:banghead:

Alright Lt Dusty and everyone else whom is trying to help me get this part fixed, I have a problem. The part that I ordered on line is the wrong part. When I talked to the mechanic at the shop I took it to he said I needed to replace the oil cooler lines. When I started checking into parts I had a couple places ask me if they were the upper or lower oil cooler lines. When I asked the mechanic he said it was 2 lines... one from the motor mount to the oil housing and the other from the oil housing to the radiator. Does anyone know where I can get the correct lines that he's talking about? disturbed and disgusted paco16
:banghead:


Go to a dealer parts dept. Sometimes its the best place. They actually walked outside and checked my truck to make sure it was the right part.

Alright Lt Dusty and everyone else whom is trying to help me get this part fixed, I have a problem. The part that I ordered on line is the wrong part. When I talked to the mechanic at the shop I took it to he said I needed to replace the oil cooler lines. When I started checking into parts I had a couple places ask me if they were the upper or lower oil cooler lines. When I asked the mechanic he said it was 2 lines... one from the motor mount to the oil housing and the other from the oil housing to the radiator. Does anyone know where I can get the correct lines that he's talking about? disturbed and disgusted paco16
:banghead:
Here see if this will help in finding the right lines to be replaced.
http://i30.imagethrust.com/i/118249/4x4oilfilteradaptor.jpg (http://www.imagethrust.com)

Alll you owners of a 1995, make a note that the rear oil cooler line is one more item that is a special "1995 only" part. (see Gabe's drawing.)
The Block-to-Filter lines on 1995-only are more difficult than any other year. GM added a steel-rod brace from the engine block to the transmission bellhousing to stiffen the assembly. In 1996 and newer, the aluminum oil pan provides the extra stiffness to the engine-trans connection. 1994 and earlier have a different assembly because the filter is up on the fender, and I don't think they have the brace rods. The oil line assembly is 2 lines crimped and braised together so they cannot be separated. The engine-to-trans brace passes between the 2 lines, so it must be removed before you can access the rear bolt on the oil lines. Best way to get at it is through driver-side wheel well with a shorty-9/16" wrench. Also note that you do Not have to jack up the motor on a 1995. There is plenty of room after the brace is removed.

That pic should help. Car Quest stores sell the lines. You should remove the long bolt in the engine mount when jacking because you may separate the rubber on the mount otherwise and those are a real pain on a 4wd. The bolt head can be accessed from the bottom with 2 long extensions and the nut can be held from behind the wheel lifting the flap. Jack if slowly and use a block of wood to protect the cast oil pan. After you finish check the torque on that oil filter line adaptor on the block - about 25 ft-lbs cause they often leak too - chevy sells an o-ring and gasket for $4. or so.