DIY: Block Filling

11-24-2005, 11:17 AM
Originally posted on by CCFab

heres the deal. filling a stock sleeve block to handle mucho boost for under 50 dollars.

the supplies.

1. DEVCON LIQUID ALUMINUM F-2 (1 lb ) for b series ( 3/4) lb for d series
5. HACKSAW BLADE ( for measuring)
8 BEER ( optional)
9. funnel
10. level


1. gather all supplies, listed above.
2. put block on a level surface, make sure its level. if on a stand level the stand front to back and side to side.
3. take 80 grit sand paper and skuff the water jacket and sleeve so the devcon will bond when poured. after you sand it, spray with a contact cleaner to remove, oils, grit, ect.
4. take your hacksaw blade., this is your ghetto marking tool. place blade along sleeve where the water pump hole is. the end of the blade will be even with the top of the water pump hole. where the blade intersects with the deck draw a line.
that will be your measurement as to how far up to fill your jacket with salt.
5.pour salt evenly around the jacket until it meets your measurement you determine with your hacksaw measuring stick. be sure to take the blade and poke the salt to remove ait pockets and have it sit uniform.
6. after the salt is air pocket free and to the level you desire., mix your epoxy.
stir together for at least 4 minutes. after the mixture is a uniform grey color pour it through the funnel and into your jacket.

when its all poured it will look like this.
7. now after you pour the devcon, you will need to skim your finger around the top of the sleeve, to 1, even out the pour, and 2. smooth it out. and make sure none of it sits above the gaset surface. there should be a bit of sleeve uncovered at the very top, prob like 1/16 inch.

8. let the devcon sit for 4 hrs. at room temp. then for 4 hrs it must be cured at 200 degrees. i put the block and a space heater inside a big box and let it bake out. be sure to keep a close eye on it, uncase you light up the box. hehe

9. let sit for another 18 hrs after that.

10. after it is hard. take an old headgasket. lay it on top of the block, and mark the coolant holes with your sharpie.

11. drill holes in the devcon 1 size smaller than the hole in the headgasket.

12. once holes are drilled, remove the freeze plug with a 19mm.
13. take your hose, and flush the salt out of the sleeves until you see no more coming out and the water shoots out of the holes drilled in the devcon evenly.
14. replace drain plug, and oil cyl walls to prevent rust.
15. hone or bore block and assemble.

16. drinka beer to celebrate your 50 dollar filled block and all the hard boost it will endure.

brought to you by hotrex da stallion drinker.

Hope this helps.....

11-27-2005, 12:39 AM
i want to see how it looks after 700whp

11-27-2005, 02:16 AM
idk how it was a good write up on so i figured i'd share the happiness....

11-27-2005, 01:35 PM
dont get me wrong. it sounds like a good idea. but i think its gonna crack

11-27-2005, 02:09 PM
dont get me wrong. it sounds like a good idea. but i think its gonna crack
and then you will have chunks of shit circulating in your cooling system.
..... until they find some unfortunate place to clog or damage.

i've never worked with "liquid aluminum", but it looks just like JB weld. JB weld is useless crap that never holds, allways breaks, and usually causes more harm than the original problem that you tried to "fix".

nothing against you schister66, but this looks like a bad idea

it might be a fun thing to try with a junk motor (just to see if it would work), but i would NEVER do this to a good motor.

11-27-2005, 02:28 PM
Anyone else check out the data sheet on this stuff? Resistant to 250F, I would think the engine would be hotter than that inside (or at least very close to that). Then again is says Boiling Point = >395F. I'd be interested to know the expansion rate too, and how it differs from the block and the sleeves.

11-27-2005, 06:24 PM
so you guys don't think it'd work? I just saw it on turbod16 and thought it was a cool idea.....never really put much thought into the reliability of it......

11-27-2005, 09:36 PM
I think a block gaurd would have the same effect, and be more reliable.

11-27-2005, 09:40 PM
this looks like a better idea to me

11-29-2005, 09:39 AM
well im a member on wherer hotrex is and ppl on there done it plenty and held up just fine. ppl aon a/f just dont wanna try new things personally i think one of yall should get a junk engine and try it and do a write up on it (b/c im broke :P ) p.s. i still love a/f.

11-29-2005, 09:53 PM
well im a member on wherer hotrex is and ppl on there done it plenty and held up just fine. ppl aon a/f just dont wanna try new things personally i think one of yall should get a junk engine and try it and do a write up on it (b/c im broke :P ) p.s. i still love a/f.
It has nothing to do with nto wanting to try new things. There are better ways of doing things. But if you are still stuck on the junkyard turbo stage, then go for it.

12-05-2005, 10:36 PM
well this has held 33 psi with the moroso filler. hotrex and mafcivic from homemadeturbo are both aiming for 400hp one with stock sleeves and one with a filled block we'll see how it goes but it has been proven to work and i think this is the same stuff that pushed beau into the 11's

ot: kuntry_boi doesnt like hmt because they make fun of him for screwing his sister

12-05-2005, 10:54 PM
i honestly think that if people on HMT and TD16 think its a good idea.....its good enough for me!

12-06-2005, 08:32 PM
there are some critics of blockfilling on td16. and remember that most people on hmt have a way thinking similar to "do everything cheap way instead of the right way" there was someone you turboed a jb welded d16 block running on three cylinders

12-06-2005, 09:06 PM
well there are always the idiots on every site....if you remember there was a dude w/ a turbo rex that had a ziptie instead of the motormount bolt....

12-07-2005, 11:36 AM
there are idiots but there is a turbo civic running 12's with a zip tie motor mount on hmt. i hope you try this i plan on doing this when i get an extra block

12-07-2005, 12:31 PM
when i boost mine, i'll put some zip ties on there just for show....:p

12-12-2005, 02:50 PM
this looks like a better idea to me
that looks WAY worse than block filling. the idea is to put EQUAL pressure on the sleeves so they do not warp into egg shapes. the block guard or block fill is MUCH more even the bolts lol

the problem with the block guard is its usualyl over sized so you have to bash it in there with a hammer. which just shouldn't be the tool you use to put together your block.

if i had a spare block i would try the block fill :) and boost the crap outta that. that some vitara's and some tuner rods or something.. cheap easy build thats solid for like 350whp heheh :iceslolan

12-12-2005, 08:35 PM
Posting has been done for a long time, by Larry at ENDYN, with very good results.

12-12-2005, 10:55 PM
im just saying all the arguments i see about the fill are that it creates unequal strength points.. and i fail to see how its any worse if not BETTER than posting which you've stated has been proven..

thats all, just throwing the idea out there

08-30-2007, 04:11 PM
hello, i'm new to this forum, i applogize if i am inturupting anyone's thread, but none has been able to help me. i have a 95 intgra, ls block, je rods, type r pistons, je rings, arp studs, gsr head, skunk2 intake manifold, titanium retainers, type r head internals, skunk2 stage 3 cams, stock injectors and fuel setup. i want to know if i can boost safely and how much can i boost, and if anyone can give me suggestion and option of all motor or boost, which ever is cost efficiant. thank you :banghead:. not putting the car on the street until the decision is made, so please help, the motor is open now with all the parts hanging around just waiting for someone to help. i looked one forum and someone told me with a ls block and gsr head and type r pistons the compression is 12.4:1 (which i don't belive), others told me 11.5:1 and then i saw 10.6:1, please help

08-30-2007, 07:59 PM
just start a new thread...this is really old! I posted this thread in 2005 before my car was boosted.....I WAS STILL IN HIGH SCHOOL AT THAT POINT!!

well thanks for the trip down memory a new thread w/ your question and we'll give you a hand

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